Doesn't look to bad, seen much worse
Stolen from another thread but this photo may help
Stolen from another thread but this photo may help
Had 1 and 4 the wrong way round, but all good apart from that.Doesn't look to bad, seen much worse
Stolen from another thread but this photo may help
View attachment 447662
As a test yesterday, I removed the MAP sensor and went for a small journey to see if the problem was gone. It appeared to be running a bit better.Had 1 and 4 the wrong way round, but all good apart from that.
Got it all up and running again and there’s definitely still SOMETHING not right, but I don’t know what. Maybe the crank sensor as you said.
I dont know if you should but I did ours just to make it look tidy, it didnt cause any issues. I cut the cable ties to make more room and replaced them after.Thanks for the advice here! It’s a bit rainy where I am, so delaying a little bit for when the sun comes out.
One thing I noticed a moment ago, and I’m sure I’ve seen others talk about this, right under where the windscreen wipers are, the cables there are extremely exposed and water seems to just drip right on it.
I’ve attached a photo, though perhaps a video will be better. Should I go about trying to rewrap the loom?
I'll look into this as well.Inside the bigger breather pipe there is a flame resistor. Its like a wire brush. It exacerbates breather blocking. A good spray should shift any gunge from it. Garage said its important and actually changed the thing on our car which seems OTT to me. It wasnt a huge price so I didnt argue.
I will run fine with out the airbox or breather pipes fitted, obviously not a good ideaI'll look into this as well.
I did take the airbox off to inspect some things, so I wonder if it's also as simple as I've not placed it on securely.
Strange all three of my pandas haven had one fittedInside the bigger breather pipe there is a flame resistor. Its like a wire brush. It exacerbates breather blocking. A good spray should shift any gunge from it. Garage said its important and actually changed the thing on our car which seems OTT to me. It wasnt a huge price so I didnt argue.
I found oil residue pooling inside the manifold. I removed the TB and cleaned it all out. It made a heap of difference to our car at around 65K miles.I'll look into this as well.
I did take the airbox off to inspect some things, so I wonder if it's also as simple as I've not placed it on securely.
Our 169 was running wet fro whatever reason. Fitting a catch can stopped all teh muck getting near teh airbox and seemed to help I think it had a ahrd life with teh person who was the owner before us. The three 1.2 310's we have are much cleaner The low milage ones are very clean and dry running and the 2014 car is producing only 1/4 of the water and oil of the car we just changed at just under 90K. Iwonder if there is actually much need for a flame arrester. Possibly more important if the car has done 100K than when new. Our car with a centre silencer is a classic example of Fiat having flexible specifications.Strange all three of my pandas haven had one fitted
.I have pushed a small rod though them 05,06,10
As well as the spigot on the air box
Older SPI (single point injection) did from memory, but they had an oil separator as well
But nothing surprises me built at different factories different parts suppliers and so on
Engine light onAn update since it's been a while.
The Panda has been running better, not great, but it's done another 1000 miles without any further problems. The lack of power is still there, but way less so.
One thing I've noticed, when I switch the engine off, there's still a fan making noise as if it's cooling down or something. At the same time, the car heating never seems to properly heat up. Is it likely the coolant needing drained and replaced, or a problem with the thermostat?
Ah Im talking cobblers then im thinking of the 319 crop. SorryStrange all three of my pandas haven had one fitted
I have pushed a small rod though them
reg 05,06,10
As well as the spigot on the air box
Older SPI (single point injection) did from memory, but they had an oil separator as well
But nothing surprises me built at different factories different parts suppliers and so on
As usual, you're a hero. This is absolutely going to be the problem as I just cable tied the pipe as it looked like it was slipping off. I guess it was totally fine - haha!Engine light on
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common problem with thermostate | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
when the weather get cold we get loads of cooling issues heaters only blowing warm P0115 error radiator fans coming on fast. gauge dropping down occationly. gauge only going up 1/4 way 90% are down to a missing rubber gasket inside the thermostat. Because the thermostat is opening and...www.fiatforum.com
Should be my guess
No need to be sorryAh Im talking cobblers then im thinking of the 319 crop. Sorry
I meant to ask regarding this, where were you getting the parts from? Is it a classic Shop4parts situation?Engine light on
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common problem with thermostate | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
when the weather get cold we get loads of cooling issues heaters only blowing warm P0115 error radiator fans coming on fast. gauge dropping down occationly. gauge only going up 1/4 way 90% are down to a missing rubber gasket inside the thermostat. Because the thermostat is opening and...www.fiatforum.com
Should be my guess
I've a local place so I'll nip by there and grab oneI normally, look on line, phone local motor factors, then make a decision
If I can I prefer local motor factors, first they don't sell complete garbage, they know you would take it back, second it's convenient, third it keeps them in business
I have a local GSF which are normally competitive
Somethings I am not too bothered about brand, cheap and easy to change,
Thermostat I have fitted
Original Birth
Blueprint
Without problems, some have fitted cheaper eBay parts that have been unreliable, it's pot luck
I like to drain the coolant below the level of the thermostat just really so it doesn't maybe run into the bell housing when you remove the housing. It's so easy to just suck the coolant out of the side mounted expansion vessel on the 169 model.I've a local place so I'll nip by there and grab one
Looking at Jock's guide on removing the thermostat, it doesn't look too difficult a job, just a bit of time getting those coil packs off. When it comes to removing it, should the coolant be removed before that, or is it safe enough to just do it, then do the coolant after?