Whoops
Should have read it properly
WD40 connector cleaner.
Is fine
Should have read it properly
WD40 connector cleaner.
Is fine
General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation
- Thread starter JoleePando
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General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation
OP
OP
Lots of questions, just so I’m clear here, am I cleaning the part that I pulled out and spraying the connector cleaner on, or should I be spraying something down the hole?
Hold it this way up and spray the cage at bottom, below the green o ring
Push a rag through the hole it came out of and make sure it's not full of oil, otherwise the fix will only last a day or so before you are back to square one
Worth checking the top of the throttle body as well
Usually it due to a poor seal on the airbox to throttle body
Split or blocked breather pipe
To much start stop driving
Broken spigot in the airbox
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OP
OP
I’m going to sound more dense, but how do I disconnect from the actual cable? I can’t seem to remove it from the yellow clip.
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I usually leave it connected, the less you touch the less to go wrong
But
Move the yellow clip up, carefully they can snap if you are rough, but no big deal
Push down on the green while pulling the two parts spart
But
Move the yellow clip up, carefully they can snap if you are rough, but no big deal
Push down on the green while pulling the two parts spart
OP
OP
Gotcha. Just realised looking at your picture again you don’t have to remove the cable. I thought it had to be disconnected.
I’ll give all this a go tomorrow and update.
Not sure if koalar has mentioned this? but don't go poking anything physically around the tip of the sensor, just give it a good spraying with the cleaner. Physically "assaulting" it with a bit of rag or anything else may end in tears as it's quite delicate. By the way mine looks a little different to the illustration above in that it's not a "cage" but more like a small tube with a hole in the end. Same principle for cleaning though, just give it a good spray. Oh, and let it dry out properly before refitting - which doesn't take long as the fluid is very volatile. As koalar says, the hole in the manifold needs a good clean too just to delay when enough oily deposits build up again. Mine seems to be fine getting cleaned once a year.
OP
OP
Thanks for the advice here! It’s a bit rainy where I am, so delaying a little bit for when the sun comes out.
One thing I noticed a moment ago, and I’m sure I’ve seen others talk about this, right under where the windscreen wipers are, the cables there are extremely exposed and water seems to just drip right on it.
I’ve attached a photo, though perhaps a video will be better. Should I go about trying to rewrap the loom?
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Becky's aren't much better:
Trouble is it really means taking the plastic scuttle off for access:
and that means taking the wiper arms off and that can be a hassle if they've not been off before - I suspect Becky's haven't been off since she left the factory. It's one of those jobs I know I should be doing but just keep putting off.
On the other hand it might just encourage me to do something about the corrosion on the O/S wiper arm?
Leave it alone
The only way to get to the wires is to remove the plastic trim
The clips go brittle over time, there a high percentage chance some will break, expensive for what they are
To clean the scuttle of leaves is easy, just pull the rubber duck bills out from underneath and gently hose them out, 5 minutes and your done
I modify the duck bills by cutting about 5 mm from the end, all my 3x pandas the rubber has gone hard and don't open properly, it would be better to replace, they are there for a reason,
The only way to get to the wires is to remove the plastic trim
The clips go brittle over time, there a high percentage chance some will break, expensive for what they are
To clean the scuttle of leaves is easy, just pull the rubber duck bills out from underneath and gently hose them out, 5 minutes and your done
I modify the duck bills by cutting about 5 mm from the end, all my 3x pandas the rubber has gone hard and don't open properly, it would be better to replace, they are there for a reason,
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Agreed. I have done any which have needed to have the scuttle cover removed (wiper motor/linkage problems etc.) as it looks pretty rubbish, but always end up with one or two broken clips as a result. (I have used superglue on a few and it seems to hold them OK, and I sometimes have a few harvested from scrapped Pandas).
There's also the risk of cracking the windscreen (apparently, although I haven't had this problem myself).
When I do tidy them up I usually use some split convoluted tubing for the main part, and fabric loom tape for the rest, as it looks alright and will probably outlast the rest of the car.
There's also the risk of cracking the windscreen (apparently, although I haven't had this problem myself).
When I do tidy them up I usually use some split convoluted tubing for the main part, and fabric loom tape for the rest, as it looks alright and will probably outlast the rest of the car.
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OP
OP
Thankfully managed to get the duck bills out last week and get them cleaned out. The buildup of sludge was grim, and that was only about 3 months ago I cleaned them last!
Thanks chaps, I'll leave well alone then. From what I can see of mine it's only the outer tape which is in poor nick and it's not changed much in the 6/7 years I've owned her.
My wiring is also exposed, like the pic. Been like this for the 14 years I've owned it, not caused a problem.
The duck bills do harden. I replaced mine some years ago, but the new ones were made of different material, not as flexible when new, so not much of an improvement. They were also slightly smaller, so do not fit tight into the scuttle. They just hang there loosely now, easy to just push upwards to drain them, letting the water out past the outside. Perhaps new ones now might be better, or not.
The duck bills do harden. I replaced mine some years ago, but the new ones were made of different material, not as flexible when new, so not much of an improvement. They were also slightly smaller, so do not fit tight into the scuttle. They just hang there loosely now, easy to just push upwards to drain them, letting the water out past the outside. Perhaps new ones now might be better, or not.
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Took the car out today, though not on a big journey. Seemed like there was still a bit of lack of power, though it did seem like it was pulling better when going up hills, and not as much “foot to the floor and pray”.
I’ll be doing another big journey tomorrow, so that’ll be the real test. At least I know it can take me home, just have to concentrate a little more.
I’ll be doing another big journey tomorrow, so that’ll be the real test. At least I know it can take me home, just have to concentrate a little more.
OP
OP
So, after cleaning the MAP sensor, the Panda seemed to be doing well, although I couldn't find a rag to properly clean the hole. As you said, it was back to square one. I think a better way to describe the issue is that it's not so much a lack of power, but rather a lack of revs, as if they are being limited. Does that sound like it could be related to the MAP sensor?
When I was traveling yesterday, I was able to drive for the first hour without any problems. After that, the car started lacking revs when going up any gradient, and I couldn't get up to speed. Interestingly, it seemed worse on a windy, open road, but it wasn't as bad on a smaller, more sheltered country road. Could the wind be affecting it in terms of air intake?
I've got a couple of hours tonight to look into this further, so any advice would be welcome.
If it improves with cleaning but comes back
Check the Map sensor again
Assuming this is still clean
And you have no error
Try dipping the clutch and see if it will rev when the engine isn't under any load, no need to go mad 4 or 5K is enough
If it kind of hits a brick wall, as it will rev to a certain point but no further, it might point to a failing crank position sensor
If it's covered again try, a day without the crank case connected, for diagnostic purposes
This pipe
Check the Map sensor again
Assuming this is still clean
And you have no error
Try dipping the clutch and see if it will rev when the engine isn't under any load, no need to go mad 4 or 5K is enough
If it kind of hits a brick wall, as it will rev to a certain point but no further, it might point to a failing crank position sensor
If it's covered again try, a day without the crank case connected, for diagnostic purposes
This pipe
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OP
OP
I’ll give this a shot soon. Just cleaning parts, letting it dry then we’ll see.
Can I just check, for the cables, what order should they be connected? Does anyone have a diagram. I’m wondering if I’ve been an idiot and put the ignition cables in the wrong slots.
1 and 4 to one coil
2 and 3 to the other
2 and 3 to the other
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I meant to reply to this one as well, here you go.
