General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation

[JoleePando]

Hi everyone,

I've recently picked up a bargain (see: money pit) Fiat Panda. I've taken it to a garage with a cost of around £650 to get parts done and labour (listed below). With the current car market, even with all the parts which need replaced, it'll still be cheaper than the next car up.

My question is, would it be worth sourcing my own after market parts from Shop4Parts to bring the cost down, or is the hassle not worth it?

 

[porta]

I’d source my own parts usually, but some garages (and especially dealerships) won’t touch parts you supply…and everyone wants to add ‘their cut’

 

[JoleePando]

I’d source my own parts usually, but some garages (and especially dealerships) won’t touch parts you supply…and everyone wants to add ‘their cut’

Double checked with them, and they're willing to install parts I provide, so already looks good on that front.

Waiting for an itemised bill as then I can figure out if own parts plus their labour will be worth it.

A handy engineer friend has also said they'd help change the brake pads and rear shocks as that'd save a bit of cash on that front. Trying to make this a little project rather than just something to put money into.

 

[DaveMcT]

Breaks pads and rear shocks are easy jobs, so should be low cost for garage labour.

 

[koalar]

Have to wait for the full list

Shocks around £12,each

Pads are normally under £15 a pair

Both jobs are very easy, on a garage lift you are talking on average less than 5 minutes a corner

Sometimes you get lucky. For example these pads for the 1.2 60hp are on offer at the moment

 

[JoleePando]

Have to wait for the full list

Shocks around £12,each

Pads are normally under £15 a pair

Both jobs are very easy, on a garage lift you are talking on average less than 5 minutes a corner

Sometimes you get lucky. For example these pads for the 1.2 60hp are on offer at the moment

View attachment 423427

Thanks for that! Where were you looking up parts?

It also turns out I was incorrect, it was the brake shoes rather than brake pads. Brake shoes look more annoying than the pads and shocks, so I reckon I'll stick with doing the shock myself.

I forgot to list the jobs being done on the Panda:

• 2 x rear shocks
• 2 x rear springs
• brake shoes
• handbrake cable
• 4 x tyres fitted

All in it was £650. It seems a lot though if I remove the rear shocks and source my own materials I'm hoping the price comes way down (HOPING!)

 

[DaveMcT]

If you are going to go the rear shocks then why not do the springs as well?
Does it really “need” the hand brake cables? Mine are all fine there’s not much to go wrong.
Tyres? why not use a tyre specialist?

 

[JoleePando]

If you are going to go the rear shocks then why not do the springs as well?
Does it really “need” the hand brake cables? Mine are all fine there’s not much to go wrong.
Tyres? why not use a tyre specialist?

I'm not feeling confident doing the springs myself, so I'd rather have someone else do that part.

If I were to put it into percentage, the handbrake is at about 20% hold. I've been leaving it in gear to hold it in place, and even then I've been ensuring I park on a relatively flat surface.

Tyre wise, I've already bought my tyres, I'm just needing the fitting is all. I've trusted the garage I'm using in the past with such things.

 

[koalar]

Thanks for that! Where were you looking up parts?

It also turns out I was incorrect, it was the brake shoes rather than brake pads. Brake shoes look more annoying than the pads and shocks, so I reckon I'll stick with doing the shock myself.

I forgot to list the jobs being done on the Panda:

• 2 x rear shocks

£12 each

• 2 x rear springs

£12 each

• brake shoes

I would alway change the whole lot

Adjusters
Springs
Shoes
And so on

The adjusters wear and jam it's a right pain to have to do the job twice

Also worth looking under the rubber seals first. If its weeping change the cylinders as well

You can normally find a kit for under £50 just had a quick look euro car parts are over £100 but online autodoc had some no brand rubbish for £30 including the cylinders so £50ish looks achievable but will require some work

• handbrake cable

Depending on which one/s around £10 to £35 for a full set

• 4 x tyres fitted

Varies a lot depend on size fitted, new quality, new rubbish or part worn

Good quality new are around £35 each plus fitting, getting rid of the old so nearer £45

Part worn here in crewe are £28 cash each

All in it was £650. It seems a lot though if I remove the rear shocks and source my own materials I'm hoping the price comes way down (HOPING!)

You will need ramp or axle stands

If on axle stands and you disconnect both rear shocks the springs fall out anyhow


Brake fluid and grease


The first time you do the rear brakes can be a pain. Probably around an hour or more. Once you done a few they can be done in around 10 miniunts a side a bit longer if you change the cylinders as well


Nothing complicated or difficult


Strange it's failed an Mot in both rear springs


Unfortunately the tyres are the expensive bit minimum £120 for part worn

 

[JoleePando]

Unfortunately the tyres are the expensive bit minimum £120 for part worn

You're damn right there! I've managed to get some good ones which are in the house waiting to go on.

Concerning the other things, I'm not exactly confident with repair, so I'm happy to get the work needed to be done at a garage. The process I'm now in is seeing how much the itemised bill is from the garage VS. me providing my own parts for them to do most of the work (rear shocks a friend is going to help me with).

 

[koalar]

You're damn right there! I've managed to get some good ones which are in the house waiting to go on.

Concerning the other things, I'm not exactly confident with repair, so I'm happy to get the work needed to be done at a garage. The process I'm now in is seeing how much the itemised bill is from the garage VS. me providing my own parts for them to do most of the work (rear shocks a friend is going to help me with).

The rear bake seem daunting

But on a scale of 1 to 5. One being changing the oil and 5 being replacing a piston

Changing the shoes and cables is a 2

Changing the brake cylinder if needed 3

Springs and dampers a 2

 

[JoleePando]

The rear bake seem daunting

But on a scale of 1 to 5. One being changing the oil and 5 being replacing a piston

Changing the shoes and cables is a 2

Changing the brake cylinder if needed 3

Springs and dampers a 2

It's good to know for the future. Current headspace is to learn to do the rear shocks, then take it from there at a later date. Happy to leave if with a mechanic this time for most of the jobs. Again, need to look at the costs if I provide the mechanic with my own parts.

 

[portland_bill]

If I were to put it into percentage, the handbrake is at about 20% hold. I've been leaving it in gear to hold it in place, and even then I've been ensuring I park on a relatively flat surface.

Handbrake cables are hardy things, but do like to be exercised.
When I bought my Panda, early 2010, it was just 4 years old, and the handbrake cables were stiff, sometimes having to push the lever down, rather than it pulling itself. I mentally put them on a list of things to do sometime.
I tend to use my handbrake more than most, lifting it at every longer stop, rather than sitting on the footbrake. ("When a pause becomes a wait, use the handbrake", as your instructor may have said.)
Now, 13 years on, I'm still on the original cables, and they are working very well.

 

[JoleePando]

Handbrake cables are hardy things, but do like to be exercised.
When I bought my Panda, early 2010, it was just 4 years old, and the handbrake cables were stiff, sometimes having to push the lever down, rather than it pulling itself. I mentally put them on a list of things to do sometime.
I tend to use my handbrake more than most, lifting it at every longer stop, rather than sitting on the footbrake. ("When a pause becomes a wait, use the handbrake", as your instructor may have said.)
Now, 13 years on, I'm still on the original cables, and they are working very well.

This is the third car (multiple brands) I've had where the handbrake has been the thing to go - haha! Thankfully, it's only ever been around a £60 fix for them at the garage.

Only recently I was waiting at the lights and had a discussion with a pal about how little people use handbrakes. It's easily the safest thing to do so you don't get bumped into the road or something, yet I can probably count on one finger how many friends use it when waiting.

Of course, that'll all be an issue of the past with auto-handbrakes and things nowadays. Safety is fun!

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Handbrake cables are hardy things, but do like to be exercised.
When I bought my Panda, early 2010, it was just 4 years old, and the handbrake cables were stiff, sometimes having to push the lever down, rather than it pulling itself. I mentally put them on a list of things to do sometime.
I tend to use my handbrake more than most, lifting it at every longer stop, rather than sitting on the footbrake. ("When a pause becomes a wait, use the handbrake", as your instructor may have said.)
Now, 13 years on, I'm still on the original cables, and they are working very well.

Much the same handbrake experience here PB. Becky was about 6 years old when we bought her and the handbrake behaved exactly as you describe, sometimes actually having to be pushed down but never causing the rear shoes to drag if you did so. I was sure I'd have to fit new cables but. as it was releasing if "assisted" and there were other things needing done (cam belt etc) I just kept going with it as it was. Like you I don't sit with my foot on the pedal at traffic lights etc so handbrakes get a good workout with me. It did take a while, but the cables slowly eased off and withing about a year (remember this is a low miles car, doing only a couple of thousand miles annually) was behaving normally. I fitted new rear shoes back at the beginning of the year and double checked the cables which looked in good order and were working just fine. Don't think they'll be needing changed any time soon.

So use your hand brake folks, keeps it freed off and also makes brake light bulbs last a lot longer!

 

[DaveMcT]

Tear springs need no tools to replace. Unbolt the shocks, drop the axle down and pull out the springs. Job done. That’s it. When you get new ones fit rubber pads at both ends.

 

[JoleePando]

Tear springs need no tools to replace. Unbolt the shocks, drop the axle down and pull out the springs. Job done. That’s it. When you get new ones fit rubber pads at both ends.

I do like the enthusiasm, though for me, I don't feel comfortable doing it myself. The shocks are something I'm going to do with a pal, it's just the other parts I'm not feeling confident about.

I am going to provide the garage with my own parts, so hopefully the cost shouldn't be too high if I'm only factoring in labour.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I do like the enthusiasm, though for me, I don't feel comfortable doing it myself. The shocks are something I'm going to do with a pal, it's just the other parts I'm not feeling confident about.

I am going to provide the garage with my own parts, so hopefully the cost shouldn't be too high if I'm only factoring in labour.

Nothing wrong with your attitude towards this. It's easy for us, with experience behind us and a good selection of tools, to say this or that is an easy task. Then, someone with very little experience and/or knowledge and/or selection of quality tools, tries to do it and finds a bolt hopelessly corroded or breaks off a stud or any of many other possibilities. It's good to know your limitations but also good to try new things especially if you have a more knowledgeable/experienced friend to offer help and advice. Knowing your comfortable limits is to be applauded.

Do you have a local trade factor nearby? living in a big city I have the choice of several. Like these for instance:
SRS, who are my default source: https://groupauto.co.uk/member/24736/srs-autoparts/
Then there's Pentland Components who are only about another 15 minutes away: https://www.pentlandcomponents.com/
Of course there's also the ever present Euro Car Parts: https://www.eurocarparts.com/edinbu...aces&utm_medium=Listing&utm_campaign=Scotland but they're a wee bit further so I seldom use them.
Organisations like these will be who are supplying all your local wee independent garages - and some of the "Big Boys" too, mostly for non franchise sales vehicles. Quality from sources like these are usually excellent and you might get a very pleasant surprise if you ask for some prices. There's also the big advantage that if a supplied part is not correct for your vehicle, getting it changed is really easy and quick.

 

[DaveMcT]

I do like the enthusiasm, though for me, I don't feel comfortable doing it myself. The shocks are something I'm going to do with a pal, it's just the other parts I'm not feeling confident about.

I am going to provide the garage with my own parts, so hopefully the cost shouldn't be too high if I'm only factoring in labour.

If you are doing the shocks you are doing the springs as well, No special tools needed. No additional tools needed. With shocks removed, the axle droops down and the springs literally fall out.

 

[chris3234]

I’d source my own parts usually, but some garages (and especially dealerships) won’t touch parts you supply…and everyone wants to add ‘their cut’

It's more due to the hastle for faulty parts being supplied wrong parts by the customer and having a disassembled car on the ramp

And possible insurance issues