General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation

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General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation

Doesn't look to bad, seen much worse

Stolen from another thread but this photo may help


Screenshot_20240702-180350.png
 
Had 1 and 4 the wrong way round, but all good apart from that.

Got it all up and running again and there’s definitely still SOMETHING not right, but I don’t know what. Maybe the crank sensor as you said.
As a test yesterday, I removed the MAP sensor and went for a small journey to see if the problem was gone. It appeared to be running a bit better.

Problem with the MAP sensor in general, or perhaps all down to a wiring/ECU issue?
 
Thanks for the advice here! It’s a bit rainy where I am, so delaying a little bit for when the sun comes out.

One thing I noticed a moment ago, and I’m sure I’ve seen others talk about this, right under where the windscreen wipers are, the cables there are extremely exposed and water seems to just drip right on it.

I’ve attached a photo, though perhaps a video will be better. Should I go about trying to rewrap the loom?
I dont know if you should but I did ours just to make it look tidy, it didnt cause any issues. I cut the cable ties to make more room and replaced them after.
 
Inside the bigger breather pipe there is a flame resistor. Its like a wire brush. It exacerbates breather blocking. A good spray should shift any gunge from it. Garage said its important and actually changed the thing on our car which seems OTT to me. It wasnt a huge price so I didnt argue.
 
Inside the bigger breather pipe there is a flame resistor. Its like a wire brush. It exacerbates breather blocking. A good spray should shift any gunge from it. Garage said its important and actually changed the thing on our car which seems OTT to me. It wasnt a huge price so I didnt argue.
I'll look into this as well.

I did take the airbox off to inspect some things, so I wonder if it's also as simple as I've not placed it on securely.
 
I'll look into this as well.

I did take the airbox off to inspect some things, so I wonder if it's also as simple as I've not placed it on securely.
I will run fine with out the airbox or breather pipes fitted, obviously not a good idea

But the gasses from the breather pipe are sucked into the inlet manifold either above or below the throttle butterfly depending on vacuum, the pipes have to be clear and fitted correctly for this to work efficiently
 
Inside the bigger breather pipe there is a flame resistor. Its like a wire brush. It exacerbates breather blocking. A good spray should shift any gunge from it. Garage said its important and actually changed the thing on our car which seems OTT to me. It wasnt a huge price so I didnt argue.
Strange all three of my pandas haven had one fitted

I have pushed a small rod though them
reg 05,06,10

As well as the spigot on the air box

Older SPI (single point injection) did from memory, but they had an oil separator as well

But nothing surprises me built at different factories different parts suppliers and so on
 
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I'll look into this as well.

I did take the airbox off to inspect some things, so I wonder if it's also as simple as I've not placed it on securely.
I found oil residue pooling inside the manifold. I removed the TB and cleaned it all out. It made a heap of difference to our car at around 65K miles.
 
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Strange all three of my pandas haven had one fitted
.I have pushed a small rod though them 05,06,10

As well as the spigot on the air box

Older SPI (single point injection) did from memory, but they had an oil separator as well

But nothing surprises me built at different factories different parts suppliers and so on
Our 169 was running wet fro whatever reason. Fitting a catch can stopped all teh muck getting near teh airbox and seemed to help I think it had a ahrd life with teh person who was the owner before us. The three 1.2 310's we have are much cleaner The low milage ones are very clean and dry running and the 2014 car is producing only 1/4 of the water and oil of the car we just changed at just under 90K. Iwonder if there is actually much need for a flame arrester. Possibly more important if the car has done 100K than when new. Our car with a centre silencer is a classic example of Fiat having flexible specifications.
 
An update since it's been a while.

The Panda has been running better, not great, but it's done another 1000 miles without any further problems. The lack of power is still there, but way less so.

One thing I've noticed, when I switch the engine off, there's still a fan making noise as if it's cooling down or something. At the same time, the car heating never seems to properly heat up. Is it likely the coolant needing drained and replaced, or a problem with the thermostat?
 
An update since it's been a while.

The Panda has been running better, not great, but it's done another 1000 miles without any further problems. The lack of power is still there, but way less so.

One thing I've noticed, when I switch the engine off, there's still a fan making noise as if it's cooling down or something. At the same time, the car heating never seems to properly heat up. Is it likely the coolant needing drained and replaced, or a problem with the thermostat?
Engine light on


Should be my guess
 
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Strange all three of my pandas haven had one fitted

I have pushed a small rod though them
reg 05,06,10

As well as the spigot on the air box

Older SPI (single point injection) did from memory, but they had an oil separator as well

But nothing surprises me built at different factories different parts suppliers and so on
Ah Im talking cobblers then im thinking of the 319 crop. Sorry
 
Engine light on


Should be my guess
As usual, you're a hero. This is absolutely going to be the problem as I just cable tied the pipe as it looked like it was slipping off. I guess it was totally fine - haha!
 
Ah Im talking cobblers then im thinking of the 319 crop. Sorry
No need to be sorry

It good to clear it up

My cars have been high mileage, it would have been quite feasible they had been taken out by the previous owner

The engines although looks the same have countiued development, different cams, compression, ECU and so on, and slight variation between models, whether it's dualogic, countries or 4x4 and so on

There's at least two types of airbox and breather pipes on the 1.1 and 1.2 I have had

Strange the older Puntos had an oil separator so oil would be returned and gassed burnt, I guess it's now incorporated in to the rocker cover under the metal plate
 
Engine light on


Should be my guess
I meant to ask regarding this, where were you getting the parts from? Is it a classic Shop4parts situation?

I'm going to replace the coolant/get someone to replace coolant too since, as far as I'm aware, it's never been done, so it's likely worth doing anyway.
 
I normally, look on line, phone local motor factors, then make a decision

If I can I prefer local motor factors, first they don't sell complete garbage, they know you would take it back, second it's convenient, third it keeps them in business

I have a local GSF which are normally competitive


Somethings I am not too bothered about brand, cheap and easy to change,

Thermostat I have fitted

Original Birth
Blueprint

Without problems, some have fitted cheaper eBay parts that have been unreliable, it's pot luck
 
I normally, look on line, phone local motor factors, then make a decision

If I can I prefer local motor factors, first they don't sell complete garbage, they know you would take it back, second it's convenient, third it keeps them in business

I have a local GSF which are normally competitive


Somethings I am not too bothered about brand, cheap and easy to change,

Thermostat I have fitted

Original Birth
Blueprint

Without problems, some have fitted cheaper eBay parts that have been unreliable, it's pot luck
I've a local place so I'll nip by there and grab one :)

Looking at Jock's guide on removing the thermostat, it doesn't look too difficult a job, just a bit of time getting those coil packs off. When it comes to removing it, should the coolant be removed before that, or is it safe enough to just do it, then do the coolant after?
 
I've a local place so I'll nip by there and grab one :)

Looking at Jock's guide on removing the thermostat, it doesn't look too difficult a job, just a bit of time getting those coil packs off. When it comes to removing it, should the coolant be removed before that, or is it safe enough to just do it, then do the coolant after?
I like to drain the coolant below the level of the thermostat just really so it doesn't maybe run into the bell housing when you remove the housing. It's so easy to just suck the coolant out of the side mounted expansion vessel on the 169 model.

original birth one in mine - from S4p - now around 5 years old and operating satisfactorily.
 
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