Technical Twinair cold starting issue. Please help

[varesecrazy]

Will report back soon as I know more.
ATM she is starting no issues.
But was playing up before any work I did.
Might be related who knows with this fault.
Keith

Some further reading:

500 - Twinair cold start problem, HELP!

Hi Everyone, Just thought I would give you an update on the cold start problem. I changed the oil and plugs but it was exactly the same, completely stopped working the other day so had it towed to Ancaster Shepperton for diagnostics.. Turns out the problem was the twin air unit which will set...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[F1iceman]

Right I can report back now.
She did it again yesterday twice once in the morning and then after work before coming home when the car was cold again.
It only done that twice before last year in the day all other times it was always fine after once in the morning.
Dame was really hoping I disturbed something ! Doh

 

[F1iceman]

Some further reading:

500 - Twinair cold start problem, HELP!

Hi Everyone, Just thought I would give you an update on the cold start problem. I changed the oil and plugs but it was exactly the same, completely stopped working the other day so had it towed to Ancaster Shepperton for diagnostics.. Turns out the problem was the twin air unit which will set...

www.fiatforum.com

But has anyone ever done this to tell the story it worked or not, seems nobody actually will do it due to costs and the price if the cars at the time when they do go.
What would be good is what do we need to fix it if we was to rebuild the uniair system to bring the cost right down again.
It's such strange fault I am guessing it's the compression but how the hell can it start on the button then not start then start again is what is baffling about it and only in the cold.
We need Sherlock Holmes ! Lol

 

[varesecrazy]

But has anyone ever done this to tell the story it worked or not, seems nobody actually will do it due to costs and the price if the cars at the time when they do go.
What would be good is what do we need to fix it if we was to rebuild the uniair system to bring the cost right down again.
It's such strange fault I am guessing it's the compression but how the hell can it start on the button then not start then start again is what is baffling about it and only in the cold.
We need Sherlock Holmes ! Lol

The Fiat/Alfa guy near Winchester, Hants

Discovered when changing 4 cylinder Multiair units that the Operation was a success.. But it was actually the new manifold gasket that made the difference

He then had multilayer gaskets made and this had the same effect..
But without a £1000 Multiair unit cost


I have yet to see any refurbishment services offered..

Realistically... "That ship has sailed"


None of these vehicles are still worth £10,000.. The majority are actually in Banger territory

 

[F1iceman]

I will just probably let it run until it's dead dead now then, I have couple other things to try I guess like oil temp sensor or pressure sensor.
But the lil light goes out when the starting issue it present and on cranking the oil light does go out so in some way I can rule that out.
And does sound more now it's going to be the uniair actuator.
Was hoping for a cheap parts fix tbh ! Lol
Like we all would with these aging cars now.
Just for the record this issue started probably around 70,000 miles I am now on 110,000

 

[milko]

Well it started with the clutch pressed, but don't touch accelerator for about 1 min or it dies and won't restart. 4deg c today

 

[varesecrazy]

Well it started with the clutch pressed, but don't touch accelerator for about 1 min or it dies and won't restart. 4deg c today

Thanks

 

[varesecrazy]

Well it started with the clutch pressed, but don't touch accelerator for about 1 min or it dies and won't restart. 4deg c today

That Definitely sounds like it's not controlling fuelling correctly..


My panda TA started at lower temps yesterday and ran well, 20 minute shopping trip, then the "warm start" 20 minutes later was just as uneventful

THIS Car is the one that messes around WHEN Warm...

There Is obviously something very "Fussy" about the way they are sensing temperatures.




I will ask..
Do you let the fuel pump cycle..
Or just Key in and Crank?

 

[GettinBetter]

I'd go for a remap/reinstall. As far as cost goes, a remap or reinstall is cost effective surely? ECU's playing up is a thing you know. (I bought a second hand ECU for £130, off ebay the other day, to play around with). Just saying...... Your thoughts chaps?

 

[jrkitching]

I'd go for a remap/reinstall. ...... Your thoughts chaps?

There's no way I'd even think about a remap on a car that wasn't running properly to start with. You first have to eliminate any possibility of a hardware fault.

Sadly a lot of what's been posted thus far is pointing toward a worn/faulty uniair module, and as far as I know, there's no fix for this on the TA except to replace it. But you first need a definitive diagnosis; I'd be looking for someone with the advanced test equipment and knowledge that's needed to do a proper diagnostic. You need to be pretty certain it's going to work before spending £1000+, but that's still better than spending a quarter of that on something which isn't.

If I had a TA with 110,000 miles on it, and it ran acceptably most of the time, I'd likely trade it in rather than spend serious money repairing it.

 

[milko]

Update.
Press clutch on throttle, starts straight away. Idles ok for 15 seconds, then feels like it misses on one cylinder then ok for five seconds and it feels like it is missing again. leave it for another 20 seconds and it runs fine. If I touch the throttle at any point during the first minute it will die and will be a sod to restart ( throttle pedal floored cranking for 30+ seconds). I have noticed the interior and running lights flicker in time with the miss fire. So far I have replaced the battery, maf sensor, map sensor, clutch switch and injectors. I have also cleaned the battery connections. Does anyone have any idea what is causing such a drain on the battery to make the lights flicker when the apparent miss fire is happening. Once she is running it doesn't miss a beat. The only other observation is the start stop works one minute and is unavailable the next

 

[varesecrazy]

Replaced Battery to Chassis cable yet..?

 

[milko]

Replaced Battery to Chassis cable yet..?

Just been reading about that. Will keep you posted

 

[steveras57]

The default setting for ANY electricial issue is that blinking earth cable to test without replacing it you can use a jump lead cable! connect one end to the neg battery terminal and the other to a sound earth point on the chassis! then do the start up procedure you mentioned and see what happens if the drain issues DONT occur thats pointing to the earth cable for sure!

 

[milko]

The default setting for ANY electricial issue is that blinking earth cable to test without replacing it you can use a jump lead cable! connect one end to the neg battery terminal and the other to a sound earth point on the chassis! then do the start up procedure you mentioned and see what happens if the drain issues DONT occur thats pointing to the earth cable for sure!

thankyou for the information

 

[jrkitching]

Also if your car has Blue&Me and it goes faulty, it can cause a permanent current drain unless you physically disconnect the connector to the B&M module. This is a very common issue.

 

[milko]

Also if your car has Blue&Me and it goes faulty, it can cause a permanent current drain unless you physically disconnect the connector to the B&M module. This is a very common issue.

Lucky no Blue and me

 

[milko]

Lucky no Blue and me

Oops it has. Proxi alignment is ok apparently

 

[varesecrazy]

Oops it has. Proxi alignment is ok apparently

If the mileage isn't flashing, it's probably ok

 

[milko]

If the mileage isn't flashing, it's probably ok

At last something. But where to go now