I have a 85bhp twinair that starts at the flick of the key, runs for 10 seconds and cuts out. It then takes 30+ second of cranking to start it again, then after 10 seconds cuts out as if it has run out of petrol. Both map sensors changed. No fault codes. If it keeps running it goes really well. Any help would be appreciated.
Technical Twinair cold starting issue. Please help
- Thread starter milko
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Technical Twinair cold starting issue. Please help
If it was me I'd put some petrol in it to rule out faulty fuel gauge, dead easy test, bung a couple of gallons in it, see what happens. I mean you were going to put fuel in it anyway eh?
Already done that. If I remove the map sensor wiring it will start eventually and run. Stop engine re attach sensor, clear fault and it will start no problem. Have tried another from a mates car. Still have the same original problem. Do you know the ignition timing?. My reader is saying -64deg
Mm.. "All ready done that" how much did you put in? Did the fuel gauge noticably move? Sorry just trying to get past the basics.
I take it you mean unplug it?
How long does it run 'well'?
Not off hand, but can have a look in the morning.
3 Galons in her and yes un-plugged sensor. Runs fine when warm. It acts as if the fuel gets cut off after 5 seconds when cold
I think it's coming out the first stage of cold starting. This is very rich mixture to let the car start. This first stage is timed 5-10 seconds. Then it enters stage 2 where the mixture is constantly weakened according to rising engine temperature. Here the car seems to have problems so metering becomes incorrect.
Did your problem start with overnight temperatures of 10 degrees and lower?
-64 degrees of ignition timing seems to far ahead. Normal figures are around 10 degrees idling, even full throttle should not exceed 30 degrees.
Did your problem start with overnight temperatures of 10 degrees and lower?
-64 degrees of ignition timing seems to far ahead. Normal figures are around 10 degrees idling, even full throttle should not exceed 30 degrees.
That would point toward the front lambda sensor, but I'd have expected that to throw a fault code, which the OP has said isn't happening.
How many miles has this car done? We've seen a few posts reporting malfunctioning of the uniair module, either because of wear or use of the incorrect oil. But this is a €1000 part, so not something to change unless you're quite sure of the cause.
Are you sure the car has the correct specification of oil? The uniair module won't function correctly without this.
Faults like this on the TA aren't always easy to pin down. There's some advanced technology in these engines, and advanced technology engines sometimes need advanced technology diagnostics. Have a read of this.
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Hi
Whats the history of this car?
Running well for all last winter?
Any service work in the last 12 months 8,000 miles?
I've now driven 70k and 30k in 2 x Twinair Fiats..
Cold starting hasn't been a problem
What are you using to read the timing?
These are from a Euro6 twinair
Are yours similar?
Are yours similar?
Just to throw a spanner in the works. outside temp 9c and it started straight away and ran with no problems. Is it possible the clutch sensor is sticking making the start stop function straight away?
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I like this suggestion. I wonder if it has a fuel pressure sensor. Could it be a coil is failing? or an injector. I would also locate and clean the twinair units oil strainer. There are some good posts on here showing where it is and how to do this.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Search TA filter you should see it
cheers
.
F1iceman
New member
Hi all
I have a problem the last few years with cold starting.
1. She starts but after about 30 seconds cuts out, if you can rev it and keep it 2000 revs it will struggle a little bit stays running and then you just have to go go go and start driving else will cut out.
2. Now for the issue that normally happens is she can cut out before all that and takes about 1 to 2 mins of cranking and foot down on throttle to get started again
Once running I have to do as above in No 1, now the daft thing is once we are going again there is no issues with Betty untill morning again works perfect all day no issues at all starting.
3. What I have noticed is summer it works great no issues at all, but when it's cold outside this is when she fails again.
4. it has been like this for a couple years now, it's not oil I have done the oil changes to try to resolve, does not show a fault code for anything.
Start stop works fine, new battery.
I am suspecting the lamba sensor is the fault for the cold readings or something.
The oil light does go out so I pulled that pressure issues out that's quite common.
I am tempted to just throw a lamba sensor at it see if this solve the issue.
I have read lots of the posts but everything stops with no info to say they fixed it or not, so I have started this one as I feel I have added a clear version of the cold and the summer starting cold it plays up, summer it's perfectly fine.
I want to resolve this so will be looking deep into fixing and I can then at least add to this thread with a resolved or something to help others.
So recap I have tried.
Oil plus filter changes ( Selina oil)
Map sensor clean.
New plugs.
Small oil filter by plugs new filter.
Tested for spark when it's cut out and still sparks no problem.
Fuel is being cut is what it feels like but foot down and 1min of cranking as she starts and splutters a bit then revs and just hold the revs to 2000 get off the drive and go without stopping and she will then be fine all day stop leave come back starts ok again all day.
Morning starts 30 seconds cuts out back to the same thing again 1min cranking ect....
Like clock work stuff to get going again.
Thanks all
I have a problem the last few years with cold starting.
1. She starts but after about 30 seconds cuts out, if you can rev it and keep it 2000 revs it will struggle a little bit stays running and then you just have to go go go and start driving else will cut out.
2. Now for the issue that normally happens is she can cut out before all that and takes about 1 to 2 mins of cranking and foot down on throttle to get started again
Once running I have to do as above in No 1, now the daft thing is once we are going again there is no issues with Betty untill morning again works perfect all day no issues at all starting.
3. What I have noticed is summer it works great no issues at all, but when it's cold outside this is when she fails again.
4. it has been like this for a couple years now, it's not oil I have done the oil changes to try to resolve, does not show a fault code for anything.
Start stop works fine, new battery.
I am suspecting the lamba sensor is the fault for the cold readings or something.
The oil light does go out so I pulled that pressure issues out that's quite common.
I am tempted to just throw a lamba sensor at it see if this solve the issue.
I have read lots of the posts but everything stops with no info to say they fixed it or not, so I have started this one as I feel I have added a clear version of the cold and the summer starting cold it plays up, summer it's perfectly fine.
I want to resolve this so will be looking deep into fixing and I can then at least add to this thread with a resolved or something to help others.
So recap I have tried.
Oil plus filter changes ( Selina oil)
Map sensor clean.
New plugs.
Small oil filter by plugs new filter.
Tested for spark when it's cut out and still sparks no problem.
Fuel is being cut is what it feels like but foot down and 1min of cranking as she starts and splutters a bit then revs and just hold the revs to 2000 get off the drive and go without stopping and she will then be fine all day stop leave come back starts ok again all day.
Morning starts 30 seconds cuts out back to the same thing again 1min cranking ect....
Like clock work stuff to get going again.
Thanks all
Hello and welcome to the forum.
You're right in saying that we're seeing a pattern developing here; this, or something like it, has been reported several times, and as yet there's no clear resolution. Just a number of old threads which just peter out without knowing the conclusion, such as this one.
If we can get to the bottom of this, I'll create a new guide.
I'm wondering if it's taking longer than it should to build the correct oil pressure in the uniair module. I'd start by checking and cleaning (or possibly replacing) the uniair module oil filter - the small one in the head.
Am I correct in thinking this is a high mileage (as in >50000 miles) car?
If so, then the module itself may just be worn out - this has definitely happened before, and more than once. Unfortunately this isn't something that can easily be checked by susbstitution; it's an expensive part.
I'm also not aware of any simple way of testing the uniair module; the link in post #7 describes such a test, but very few mechanics or garages will have either the equipment or skill to actually conduct and interpret this.
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