Technical Koalar random thoughts

[koalar]

Thought I post on here as the information on sealing rings is hard to come by

Oil filters

1.2

There's two types notice the engine number of the swap over

The early ones are longer,

A it the diameter
H is the length
C is the outer diameter of the sealing ring

Also notice the bypass pressure is also different (2.9 PSI)*

Counter intuitive the shorter filter has more volume

V ≈ 307.91 long
V ≈ 335.7 short

That because the radius is X3.14 so it has a larger effect than you think

That's not to say it holds more oil it depends how the space inside is filled

Also notice the bypass pressure has altered

I don't know why the filter was changed, proximity to the exhaust, just a stupid guess, But I don't see it as a down grade

There are other filters from the fiat range that also fit

 

[jrkitching]

Also notice the bypass pressure has altered

I don't know why the filter was changed

Again, just a guess - but Fiat have also changed oil specs over the production run. Perhaps changing the viscosity of the recommended oil might be the reason for the change in bypass pressure?

Fortunately the 1.2 unit, at least in non-VVT form, isn't an oil sensitive design, nor is it highly stressed; so long as it's got a quantity of something resembling engine oil between the min and max lines on the dipstick and a filter that doesn't leak, it's likely to outlast the rest of the car.

 

[koalar]

Grease the choice is massive and as formulations change the applications become blurry

Lithium
White
Aluminium
Copper
Red
Brake
And many more

copper grease

Original was used in high temperature applications, steam pipes, exhaust bolts and so on, it was not a lubricant as such

The theory is there is suspended copper in medium,.as the heat burns off the volatiles it just leaves a slippery copper coating on the fastener, this prevents galling from a dry steel to steel contact

Brakes are a.dodgy area, it's effectively band by some manufacturers as it voids warranty on ABS if found, yet other manufacturers recommend using it.


Red grease

Was originally red so it was easily identifiable on the shop floor, it's resistant to hyro-carbon solvents such as petrol, diesel, hydraulic fluid and is safe on rubber (yes I know it's not real rubber)

So is ideal for say the internal seals on a brake caliper rebuild

Silicone grease

Is also "rubber" safe but is more resistant to water, it's also widely used on none metallic moving parts


Lithium grease

The most widely used general purpose grease, it's both water resistant and high temperature, but should not be used on some "rubbers" or plastics

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Grease the choice is massive and as formulations change the applications become blurry

Lithium
White
Aluminium
Copper
Red
Brake
And many more

copper grease

Original was used in high temperature applications, steam pipes, exhaust bolts and so on, it was not a lubricant as such

The theory is there is suspended copper in medium,.as the heat burns off the volatiles it just leaves a slippery copper coating on the fastener, this prevents galling from a dry steel to steel contact

Brakes are a.dodgy area, it's effectively band by some manufacturers as it voids warranty on ABS if found, yet other manufacturers recommend using it.


Red grease

Was originally red so it was easily identifiable on the shop floor, it's resistant to hyro-carbon solvents such as petrol, diesel, hydraulic fluid and is safe on rubber (yes I know it's not real rubber)

So is ideal for say the internal seals on a brake caliper rebuild

Silicone grease

Is also "rubber" safe but is more resistant to water, it's also widely used on none metallic moving parts


Lithium grease

The most widely used general purpose grease, it's both water resistant and high temperature, but should not be used on some "rubbers" or plastics

Just to add to this, I bought a tub of this stuff: https://silverhook.co.uk/Grease-Ceramic-Anti-Seize-500g Read the description, it's interesting stuff with a lot of applications. I especially like using it on exhaust fittings - the greasy stuff burns off leaving the ceramic behind which prevents stuff corroding together. I was going to use it on brakes but I find it a bit sloppy and runny so use this stuff: https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=775 which has much more the consistency of the old copper grease.

 

[koalar]

Dualogic

Engine off

1,N,R all select fine

Engine on

1,R select fine

N says gear not admissable

Faulty throttle pedal

 

[koalar]

Corrosion

Electroplating double-sided
immersion in zinc electrolyte under current

zinc layer 8 - 16 microns

From 2007
zinc layer 10 - 12 microns

Unpainted areas will loose approximately 1 micron per year

 

[jrkitching]

From 2007
zinc layer 10 - 12 microns

Unpainted areas will loose approximately 1 micron per year

Interesting.

That would suggest a useful structural life of about 15 years for the bodyshell (10-12 years for the sacrificial zinc to be consumed, then 3 years or so for serious corrosion to set in).

Coincides with the age when we first see cars needing sill patching at MOT time.

 

[koalar]

One of the gauges not at zero when the ignition is off

It's a fairly common issue

Battery runs flat and the pointers bounce hard on the stops, with a clicking noise

They are only a push fit so spin slightly on there shaft

They can be spun back to zero, only spin the pointers the same direction as in the video below

Don't forget to fix the original cause first otherwise you'll end up back to square one

Full tear down below

 

[koalar]

Just adding here so I can find them again

Fuel level in the tank

Resistance value

Full tank 33±3 Ohm

3/4 76±3 Ohm

1/2 134±3 Ohm

1/4 206±3 Ohm

Reserve 235±3 Ohm

Empty 299±3 Ohm

Pin 5 and 6

 

[koalar]

Ride heights

Rear

Full tank, tools and spare

1.1 1.1 VAN 1.2 8v 1.3 JTD 16v 1.3 JTD 16v VAN 4WD Climbing 4WD Trekking 1.4 16v

641.5 mm 642.7 mm 642 mm 639.5 mm 645.2 mm 678.1 mm 683.8 mm 621 mm

 

[Blueboy54123]

Got the car here for a few day

1.2 petrol 2011

Going to post a few pictures and video of some simple and basic tests

My well be a bit random as they pop into my head and might sort them into the proper order later

Morning koaler I'm still trying to fix the petrol gauge problem I'm almost convinced the petrol float is ok I used the multimeter set at 2k ohms at empty it reads.290 at full it reads .033 I don't know if this is correct or not what are your views please

 

[ZaphodB]

Morning koaler I'm still trying to fix the petrol gauge problem I'm almost convinced the petrol float is ok I used the multimeter set at 2k ohms at empty it reads.290 at full it reads .033 I don't know if this is correct or not what are your views please

That correlates with the results in post 69, so your sender is 100% ok

 

[Blueboy54123]

That correlates with the results in post 69, so your sender is 100% ok

Any idea what my next step is I have heard there is a fuse somewhere but I thought if it's blown I wouldn't get any reading at all and the gauge does go upto over a quarter Iv e also read the earth strap underneath the battery tray might need cleaning up any information welcome

 

[koalar]

Any idea what my next step is I have heard there is a fuse somewhere but I thought if it's blown I wouldn't get any reading at all and the gauge does go upto over a quarter Iv e also read the earth strap underneath the battery tray might need cleaning up any information welcome

How much fuel are you putting in

 

[Blueboy54123]

How much fuel are you putting in

He's putting in about roughly £20each time but last night we let it run dry so we could start a fresh. Something I forgot to mention when we first bought it we parked it outside on a slight decline and as I went to turn it off I noticed the gauge started rising to the correct level to the amount that was in the tank I switched it off and it was back to its old position

 

[koalar]

14 liters of fuel from dry is roughly 1/4 on the guage

 

[Blueboy54123]

14 liters of fuel from dry is roughly 1/4 on the guage

Cheers I have taken the battery off but can't find the earth strap to see if it needs cleaning

 

[ZaphodB]

Cheers I have taken the battery off but can't find the earth strap to see if it needs cleaning

Any heavy duty cables in the engine compartment are worth checking and their connection points (remove, clean-up and remake to be certain)

He's putting in about roughly £20each time but last night we let it run dry so we could start a fresh. Something I forgot to mention when we first bought it we parked it outside on a slight decline and as I went to turn it off I noticed the gauge started rising to the correct level to the amount that was in the tank I switched it off and it was back to its old position

It's unclear what the symptoms are , maybe post a new message in the thread that you undoubtedly started on the subject to bring it up the list rather than filling this thread up?

 

[koalar]

Under the battery tray

Under the clutch slave

On top of the gearbox here

Seeing as the starter motor working, 200+ amps

I am sure it would cope with the 0.01 amps of the gauge, which in any case does go through this ground


Anyhow you hove a multi meter

Just do a voltage drop test under(cranking) load from the battery to engine block

Around or below 200mv and your good to go

You have no symptoms of a bad ground, and the gauge is working as expected, no sure what we are fixing

 

[Blueboy54123]

Cheers I have taken the battery off but can't find the earth strap to see if it needs cleaning

Also do you know where the petrol gauge fuse is