Technical Koalar random thoughts

[koalar]

Clutch, gearbox problem

You can see the pessure plate here

And from further back

The inside is normally covered in oil if the input seal/bearing has gone

 

[koalar]

Testing for the common problem of thermostat seal perished, over cooling

This hose should stay cold for several minuites from a cold start

Temperature gauge should be about a third before there is any flow

It's the bottom of the hose you need to check

You don't need anything fancy to measure it. Cold for a couple of minuites the seal in the thermostat is not your problem,

Top and bottom of this hose should be hot at idle and the temperature gauge midway

If it's not you have a air lock, low coolant,or head gasket problem. It's also the location of the main bleed screw

 

[vexorg]

Can you see the clutch on the fiat 500?

 

[koalar]

Can you see the clutch on the fiat 500?

Yes that is a 500 gearbox fitted to my panda, they are virtually the same

You can only see the pressure plate from top,

it you want to see the fricton plate or input shaft seal you will need to use an endoscope



The simplist test is with the engine Off to feel the inside if it's oily changing just the clutch will not permanently fix any problem. Worth doing even if your not doing the job yourself as it save a lot of heart ache later

 

[koalar]

Looking through some Chrysler documents today for fiat 500 repairs

I was surprised to find

No doubt it's the same for the pandas with flyby wire throttle bodies

In the procedures it asks for a relearn when either the throttle body or accelerator pedal is changed.

 

[koalar]

Here's how I deal with rusty brake pipes

First try with a nice fitting spanner, don't cheap out you need a nice fitting one.

I don't use any oil at this point. If I does not budge and I resort to heat, it will catch fire.

Here a fairly typical pipe

In this case it didn't budge

So a add some brass behind it to protect the paint

And heat to cherry red

In this case it started to move after the first application of heat

It's started to move, it will move back and forwards a few degrees

Now I add oil and work it in. Don't force it out. Tighten up, unwind. Tighten up, unwind a bit more and walk it out

 

[koalar]

You don't need expensive fancy tools to make a new pipe like this

This will get the job done, yes it's easier with more expensive tools

It's best to remove the old pipe in one piece, but it's not always possible. Here is one the goes across the bulkhead, behind a clutch cable, evap, fuse box and so on. I have cut the pipe in the middle and pre form half and feed the rest through and bend in situ.

Measure around the curves with a piece of string and cut to length

Pipe cutter dosnt leave any swarf and leaves a nice and square end

Don't forget to put the connectors on first, if you tape them a few inches back from the end it saves any heart ache later on

The pipe cutter will leave a little ridge in the center

Which can be knocked off with a small drill

And the sharp edge knocked off with wire wool

Square, and no burs is the important
Should look like this

And ready to be clamped, For me trial and error showed just below the button height gave best results

Make sure the button sits square and flush

And mash it down until the there is no gap

And it should look like this, You may have to remove the button with pliers

One last step, but this is where it can all go wrong, push the cone in until the flare looks right. Don't just mash it down tight. For me it's one and a half turns of the handle

Its better to be slightly too shallow than too deep, when you tighten the fitting down it will form and seat properly

 

[vexorg]

There are two types of flaring, effectively male and female, needs to be the right one when making it

 

[koalar]

There are two types of flaring, effectively male and female, needs to be the right one when making it

The bubble flares are almost identical to make just stop at photo 14 they tighten up fine

But it's better if the base is flat

So instead use opposite side of the bar. Non shamfered side

Have slightly more sticking out, flush to the hight of the button

Then don't mash it all the way to the bar leave it about 1/2mm away

Proper preparation is the key with these cheaper flare tool. If everything is nice and square. The failure rate is very low

This has been very good, you can hand form it around a socket, and takes a nice flare

At the time I bought it, it was cheaper than most on Ebay, you could buy cheaper on aliexpress but I doubt the copper nickle content would be the same

The cheaper flaring tools are not for making steel brake pipes

 

[vexorg]

The biggest problem I found with steel pipes is that you cant get enough grip on the pipe and it slides down when trying to compress it.

 

[koalar]

Pretty obvious but is take me decades to realise

If you put all you socket you are using on an extention bar or racket it much easier to find them

Especially if you are working by feel on grass or gravel under a car,

Here's all the socket for one job

This has been I great tool for me

It has a very sharp 90 degree bend which makes it very good where access is tight

Also you can work right up to flange as there is no overhang

Jobs that mostly require two sizes of socket, I just put one on either end

 

[koalar]

According to fiat the correct inlet manifold at idle is 290 mbar and 330 mbar for the 1.1 and 1.2

My tired old car is running fine at 350 mbar but seeing as it got damaged cylinders along with a glued head and block it seems feasible