Save up to 15% with Adrian Flux insurance!

Technical Correct spark plugs for 1.1 - 2006

Currently reading:
Technical Correct spark plugs for 1.1 - 2006

I am confused

the video clear has fluctuating revs.

Maybe post your own video so we know exactly what we are dealing with.

plenty of video on youtube about finding a vacuum leak
 
So what are best plugs to buy (14 mm thread- old model - bigger diameter spark plugs )
 
Wasgehabendas said:
Yes it contradicts because I haven't explain it properly. Sorry about it.

It looks like plugs were making issues because I changed them again and there isn't a misfire at idle when cold anymore.

Do you have any idea why I have been experiencing a misfire at idle when engine gets warm? It's definitely not related to spark plugs, leads or coils. No warning lights and no errors.

I want to resolve this issue for the past 2 years without success and it is getting worse over time. On cold start rpm at idle is 1000, then when engine gets warm and it drops to 750 misfire is starting. There aren't fluctuations at RPM at idle once it gets warm.

Asked hundreds of people and no one has any idea why it happens. Some people in the other thread I started mentioned crank position sensor, but if it is the culprit I wouldn't drive the car for 20k miles with a bad one.

Any help would be appreciated :)
Click to expand...
I suggest doing a compression test, to rule out a possible cracked head.
 
koalar said:
they all start and idle at 1200

and drop to 750 after a minute or so

although you will never notice if you just drive off straight away.
Click to expand...
Yes, I knew this but I was replying to "anyone know why it misfires when hot but is ok when cold"
A cracked head can cause this, but a compression test is the easiest way to be sure.
The OP probably wants a different mechanic to diagnose it, random changing of parts is not the answer, although I like shiny new bits.
 
Jockcl500 said:
Yes, I knew this but I was replying to "anyone know why it misfires when hot but is ok when cold"
A cracked head can cause this, but a compression test is the easiest way to be sure.
The OP probably wants a different mechanic to diagnose it, random changing of parts is not the answer, although I like shiny new bits.
Click to expand...

so many red herring in this thread

sparkplugs types

misfire

fluctuating revs

and so on

Technical question aren't easy in a foreign language

but last description from the OP in the many theads is the fault

starts at 1000

and drops to 750

but doesn't fluctuate so going with that for now
 
Hey guys thanks for your suggestions and your will to help me. Now, I made 3 screenshots from MES registered version.

Spark advance is constant, it shows 10.4 degrees all the time.
Spark advance reduction shows 0 all the time, not sure why.
Injection time is constant, around 2.470 all the time.
Coil 1 and 2 charge time is also constant.
Knock sensor signal is 0.5-0.6 to all 4 Cylinders.
RPM is stable, 750 - it doesn't fluctuate.

You can see other parameters too and tell me if anything is wrong or unusual.
 

Attachments

  • MESnew1.jpg
    MESnew1.jpg
    456.6 KB · Views: 21
  • MESnew2.jpg
    MESnew2.jpg
    463.6 KB · Views: 25
  • MESnew3.jpg
    MESnew3.jpg
    228.2 KB · Views: 21
Everything seems normal there.

This thread has been long, and at times confusing. I have just re-read it all, and as I understand it, the issue you are trying to fix is a misfire, when idling, when hot. If this is not the problem, then we need clarification. The actual problem, needs to be restated as simply and as clearly as possible, with no added info. Then we can address that without being distracted.

An engine that occasionally gives a momentary miss is not unusual, and is often a characteristic. We need to be sure we are not trying to fix something that is not broken.

Plug leads on these are critical. The original design has a tight rubber sleeve over each plug, and the metal connector inside is less tight onto the plug terminal. When fitting it is important that the connector is clicked onto the plug terminal. If not secure, an extra gap is created, requiring more voltage to jump that and the plug, which can cause a miss occasionally. Changing the plugs and getting a better result can be just down to the leads being fitted better. The lead fitment into the coils can also be a little tight and cause similar issues. These need to be fitted carefully every time they are disturbed.

As the engine heats up, metal expands. This can close down valve clearances, expose problems with head gaskets, and reveal cracks in cylinder head or block. A cracked head or block is unlikely on these engines unless it has suffered overheating.
Check the valve clearances when cold - properly cold after an overnight rest.
Do a compression test when cold.
Do another when hot.
 
portland_bill said:
Everything seems normal there.

This thread has been long, and at times confusing. I have just re-read it all, and as I understand it, the issue you are trying to fix is a misfire, when idling, when hot. If this is not the problem, then we need clarification. The actual problem, needs to be restated as simply and as clearly as possible, with no added info. Then we can address that without being distracted.

An engine that occasionally gives a momentary miss is not unusual, and is often a characteristic. We need to be sure we are not trying to fix something that is not broken.

Plug leads on these are critical. The original design has a tight rubber sleeve over each plug, and the metal connector inside is less tight onto the plug terminal. When fitting it is important that the connector is clicked onto the plug terminal. If not secure, an extra gap is created, requiring more voltage to jump that and the plug, which can cause a miss occasionally. Changing the plugs and getting a better result can be just down to the leads being fitted better. The lead fitment into the coils can also be a little tight and cause similar issues. These need to be fitted carefully every time they are disturbed.

As the engine heats up, metal expands. This can close down valve clearances, expose problems with head gaskets, and reveal cracks in cylinder head or block. A cracked head or block is unlikely on these engines unless it has suffered overheating.
Check the valve clearances when cold - properly cold after an overnight rest.
Do a compression test when cold.
Do another when hot.
Click to expand...

Regarding plug leads I changed them 2 times at professional dealers, the last set is Eyquem - made in France, more expensive and better quality I guess since they aren't Chinese.

Let me add one more thing. Sometimes that engine miss is less expressed when hot. One mechanic sat at the car and after observation he said your exhaust has a hole and it is making you problems. Muffler is almost totally rusted. I will add pictures later. I am waiting for a new muffler to arrive and tell you the results.

Before doing a compression test, is it possible muffler or exhaust somewhere to give such a symptoms? (just for the record this car has 1 lambda sensor because FIAT decided to save money and make it cheaper for our market here). Car hasn't overheated a single time for the past 28000 km. Maybe the previous owner overheated it which I wouldn't like to believe in that. Ticking noise from the engine bay points to valves or injectors?
 
Last edited:
A leak just after the catalyst can draw in air. This affects the sensor values causing the engine to run rich.

Also check out the many threads on 1.1 engine ECU wiring problems. The wire conductors can crack and/or the connector contacts can get dirty - triggering coil faults.
 
DaveMcT said:
A leak just after the catalyst can draw in air. This affects the sensor values causing the engine to run rich.

Also check out the many threads on 1.1 engine ECU wiring problems. The wire conductors can crack and/or the connector contacts can get dirty - triggering coil faults.
Click to expand...

I know about ECU wiring problems but I am afraid to do anything related to it on my own. From what I can see wire conductors are not cracked but they are dirty. How to clean them safely?

We will see with the leak soon. Hopefully problem will be solved without opening the engine.

Dave, you remember about my thread on head gasket that is leaking oil, isn't it? Now for the past 2 months the engine block is dry, oil hasn't been leaking. Not sure what is going on...
 
Don't worry about your oil leak. It's not enough to matter.

The only way with cracked wiring is to gently wobble each wire one-by-one and see if you can trigger the fault. The connector block contacts need a close look with magnifying glass. Anyone who has found a fixed a fault like that might be able to help.
 
DaveMcT said:
Don't worry about your oil leak. It's not enough to matter.

The only way with cracked wiring is to gently wobble each wire one-by-one and see if you can trigger the fault. The connector block contacts need a close look with magnifying glass. Anyone who has found a fixed a fault like that might be able to help.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I will try and write here if something happens.
 
the 1.1 wiring fault only effected by movement. Unless you have a misfire over bumps, acceleration or braking. I would leave the wires alone it is a weak area to start with. Lets not make anything worse.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Technical Correct size spark plugs for 2006 1.2 Panda
Replies
7
Views
654
koalar
koalar
M
Technical Spare electrical connector??? 2006 1.1 Active
Replies
2
Views
142
mk21147
M
B
Technical Panda 1.1 2006 starting problem
2 3 4
Replies
73
Views
3K
varesecrazy
V
A
Technical Fiat Panda 1.1 MK3 2010 Changing Spark Plugs
2
Replies
39
Views
2K
koalar
koalar
koalar
Technical Spark plugs, simple, quick, easy
Replies
19
Views
862
koalar
koalar
Back
Top