Technical Brakes again...

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Technical Brakes again...

Hi does anyone have a diagram of the rear brakes set up on my 2004 169 8 valve,or know where I can get one from.
Thanks
Take a look on google at complete sets

There at least two systems Benex and Bosch

90% are Bosch

So something like

fiat bosch panda rear brake kit

In google images gives



Zoom in on some of the images shows the spring locations


Not sure what you are looking for

Or

 
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I've tried that but can't seem to get a definitive diagram. When searching my model year/ engine cc etc seems to be 2003/2012 but my engine/HP is not listed. I'm lead to believe that my car is a Mk3 and yet some of the sites term it as a Mk2. Very confusing.:confused:
 
New discs are lightly zinc plated for rust protection. It quickly wears off (more likely burns off) but will affect brake performance until it does.

Brakes with the back side (inside?) of the disc corroded and mangled have suffered from too little brake pressure on that side. The only cause is they have not been maintained correctly. It might need a new caliper. More likely a full overhaul with new pins and bushes will do the job.
I think my question is why are the brakes not getting the pressure where they should be. Im not actually sure I agree its teh cause as on all three cars there is no other evidence of any degree of caliper seizure in any way. My 2019 car at 13000 miles is suffering just the same issues and while I am sure your right about a good service doing the job, that car is not the subject of questionable maintenance, it has had 3 services by the dealer and gets twice a year (minimum) wheels off inspections by me on top. Even the older car gets a gold service from Fiat yearly plus additional inspections by me. It had new discs before we bought it and it was comprehensively cleaned around a year befor this latets issue arose. Surely the question is what is causing this. My dad had a Clio c 1999 and that has exactly the same issues at under 2 years old. Surely the brakes on any car should perform properly for more than 2 years? There are cars of 100 years of age running about with fewere issues than all three of my Pandas. We have three cars with mostly three different drivers although I drive all three quite regularly to keep an eye on them. Each is driven very differently but only 1 gets driven so gently as to cause concern in respect of brakes getting seized - my Mrs's car. That car is no different to either of the other two in terms of the brake problems.
45 years ago when I had my first disc brake shod car the brakes could be relied on to perform year after year, and discs would last several sets of pads. If brake parts are failing to work after a few months due to either materials issues or bad design this is a matter of concern, I think its about time car servicing was adapted to include routine maintenance to address this and some of the so called necessary works knocked out.
Refilling the windscreen bottle for example. Inspite of the fact that my car is ALWAYS sent in with the bottle full they always try and charge for additive.....

One thought that occurs to me is how electric car brakes are going to perform, where the use is less due to regenerative braking. Are we going to have a lot of cars with unsafe brakes running around? The car in the photos had not long passed an MOT and the brakes were apparently satisfactory. In view components in the condition shown are neither fit nor safe hence the complete refurb.

Having thought about this for some long time I think that I may try getting some different pads and trying to get something much softer that will wear faster and maybe thus allow more piston movement in the caliper in the hope it might reduce the premature ruination of my discs. I really cant see that it should be necessary to strip the brakes every 3 months to avoid big bills replacing half the system every 2 years.

As far as I know based on needing pins for a 100HP Fiat dont even list the slide pins as parts.... but will sell an entire caliper.
 
2004 169 8v

Both 1.1 and 1.2
I've tried that but can't seem to get a definitive diagram. When searching my model year/ engine cc etc seems to be 2003/2012 but my engine/HP is not listed. I'm lead to believe that my car is a Mk3 and yet some of the sites term it as a Mk2. Very confusing.:confused:
As long as it’s not a 4x4, diesel or 100HP

There’s only two types of shoes for the right hand drive cars

2003 - 2012


180 diameter 30 width Bosch
185 diameter 31 width Bendex

The diameter is stamped into the drum, easy to check

As far as I know the bendex were only fitted to early 1.1 none abs but I could be wrong

The parts you buy and what’s fitted may look slightly different,

ignore MK numbers different suppliers use different numbers


33143FEE-35F4-4B26-9BBF-0BEC88C7442A.jpeg
1BB88730-0183-480C-B4D8-631E4C1D27DE.jpeg
 
I've just started some maintenance on my "old dog" 100hp and...
All 4 discs have a serious crusty outer edge on both inner and outer sides, and a crusty ridge on the hub side of each swept area. Nothing new in that, except that these are properly working calipers, and the discs and pads were fitted in April, 3500 miles ago. And the nasty grain graunchy noise when braking gently.
Pads & discs were Brembo.
My usual brand (Pagid) were not readily available at the time.
Previous ones were Pagid, and discs were lasting well after 4 years. Pads were getting a bit low, so swapped them all.
Not sure what this adds to the discussion, but I was surprised by the large amount of crust on the discs from one summer's use. Enough to stop the pads touching the disc without wearing a notch in their outside edge.
 
I think my question is why are the brakes not getting the pressure where they should be. Im not actually sure I agree its teh cause as on all three cars there is no other evidence of any degree of caliper seizure in any way. My 2019 car at 13000 miles is suffering just the same issues and while I am sure your right about a good service doing the job, that car is not the subject of questionable maintenance, it has had 3 services by the dealer and gets twice a year (minimum) wheels off inspections by me on top. Even the older car gets a gold service from Fiat yearly plus additional inspections by me. It had new discs before we bought it and it was comprehensively cleaned around a year befor this latets issue arose. Surely the question is what is causing this. My dad had a Clio c 1999 and that has exactly the same issues at under 2 years old. Surely the brakes on any car should perform properly for more than 2 years? There are cars of 100 years of age running about with fewere issues than all three of my Pandas. We have three cars with mostly three different drivers although I drive all three quite regularly to keep an eye on them. Each is driven very differently but only 1 gets driven so gently as to cause concern in respect of brakes getting seized - my Mrs's car. That car is no different to either of the other two in terms of the brake problems.
45 years ago when I had my first disc brake shod car the brakes could be relied on to perform year after year, and discs would last several sets of pads. If brake parts are failing to work after a few months due to either materials issues or bad design this is a matter of concern, I think its about time car servicing was adapted to include routine maintenance to address this and some of the so called necessary works knocked out.
Refilling the windscreen bottle for example. Inspite of the fact that my car is ALWAYS sent in with the bottle full they always try and charge for additive.....

One thought that occurs to me is how electric car brakes are going to perform, where the use is less due to regenerative braking. Are we going to have a lot of cars with unsafe brakes running around? The car in the photos had not long passed an MOT and the brakes were apparently satisfactory. In view components in the condition shown are neither fit nor safe hence the complete refurb.

Having thought about this for some long time I think that I may try getting some different pads and trying to get something much softer that will wear faster and maybe thus allow more piston movement in the caliper in the hope it might reduce the premature ruination of my discs. I really cant see that it should be necessary to strip the brakes every 3 months to avoid big bills replacing half the system every 2 years.

As far as I know based on needing pins for a 100HP Fiat dont even list the slide pins as parts.... but will sell an entire caliper.
Did you look at my post 40

My disks haven’t had any service except new pads when needed. Same with all four pandas and Puntos. I have had one sticking pad in calliper causing it to drag and needed fixing

Looking at the purple/chocolate colour at the centre of your disc Shows it’s been just under 300 degrees centigrade at the centre which isn’t right. They should stay silver at the centre

Can only be dragging brakes, failed bearing or brake miss use
 
2004 169 8v

Both 1.1 and 1.2

As long as it’s not a 4x4, diesel or 100HP

There’s only two types of shoes for the right hand drive cars

2003 - 2012


180 diameter 30 width Bosch
185 diameter 31 width Bendex

The diameter is stamped into the drum, easy to check

As far as I know the bendex were only fitted to early 1.1 none abs but I could be wrong

The parts you buy and what’s fitted may look slightly different,

ignore MK numbers different suppliers use different numbers


View attachment 413006View attachment 413007
Thanks Koalar I haven't got a problem with the brakes apart from the self adjusting mechanism not working as it should. Today I've slackend everything off e.g self adjusters/handbrake cable as you mentioned in one of your earlier posts,and balanced everything up and there working fine I'm just curious as to as to which make they are. Silly me though I forgot to check what size drums ar fitted, but I can do that nearer the time I need new shoes, which could be some time off as I've had the car for just over 12 months and done just over 1.600 mls
 

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Looks like someone has changed one wheel cylinder ?
I dont think it's very critical on rear drum brakes. You can usually tell theu're fine as they'll move out on their own anyway.
 
On this car the new Bilstein discs fitted were 12.5 thick and the min tolerance stamped ion the disc is 9.8 The new discs are both bigger diameter and thicker than the old ones to such an extent I am actually wondering what exactly it was running on.
I have forgot which car we are talking about

Models with solid discs have

Pre 2012
11mm thick and 240mm diameter

The post 2012
12mm thick 257mm diameter

Bigger and thicker sounds like it’s for a latter car possibly

Needs double checking as post 2007 are also different part numbers for the pads in the champion catalogue
 
Thanks Koalar I haven't got a problem with the brakes apart from the self adjusting mechanism not working as it should. Today I've slackend everything off e.g self adjusters/handbrake cable as you mentioned in one of your earlier posts,and balanced everything up and there working fine I'm just curious as to as to which make they are. Silly me though I forgot to check what size drums ar fitted, but I can do that nearer the time I need new shoes, which could be some time off as I've had the car for just over 12 months and done just over 1.600 mls
I found this quite helpful for getting my head round the rear brakes, when my automatic adjusters stopped adjusting. I found the catch for the ratchet wheel (part 9 in diagram) rattling around in the bottom of the drum.

Took them off, cleaned, wound the ratchet wheel right back & reassembled, and been fine since.
 

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I've just started some maintenance on my "old dog" 100hp and...
All 4 discs have a serious crusty outer edge on both inner and outer sides, and a crusty ridge on the hub side of each swept area. Nothing new in that, except that these are properly working calipers, and the discs and pads were fitted in April, 3500 miles ago. And the nasty grain graunchy noise when braking gently.
Pads & discs were Brembo.
My usual brand (Pagid) were not readily available at the time.
Previous ones were Pagid, and discs were lasting well after 4 years. Pads were getting a bit low, so swapped them all.
Not sure what this adds to the discussion, but I was surprised by the large amount of crust on the discs from one summer's use. Enough to stop the pads touching the disc without wearing a notch in their outside edge.
Modern brembo unless they are from there performance line are Chinese *******
 
Looks like someone has changed one wheel cylinder ?

It’s normally good practice to change change brakes as a set.
I'm guilty of that however I did check for weepage and movement by pulling the dust covers back and it's fine. Although I do accept your point.
As a footnote the offside front wheel speed sensor on my Mercedes failed four months ago which I replaced with a genuine part. According to one of the forums I go on they advise changing both sides which I didn't and the nearside is still fine.
 
I think it's entirely valid to just do one when it's needed if you're doing the repair yourself and can therefore attend to the other one as soon as you see it's leaking. On the other hand it's probably best practice to do both if the car is being garage maintained. I wouldn't do this with shockabsorbers though as a weak one on one side will make the good one on the other work a bit harder. Wheel ABS sensor I'd do as you have. just needs some sensible thinking about to decide which course of action is beat.
 
I'm guilty of that however I did check for weepage and movement by pulling the dust covers back and it's fine. Although I do accept your point.
As a footnote the offside front wheel speed sensor on my Mercedes failed four months ago which I replaced with a genuine part. According to one of the forums I go on they advise changing both sides which I didn't and the nearside is still fine.
Its good to know that Mercdes also suffer failure of such things and its not restricted to Fiats. Sometime it seems people think such things are immune. I fully accept that there are many components that are jsut engineered to a higher standard and the principle big parts are stronger and longer lasting. But every Mercedes owner also need a small light nippy Panda to bring smiles into their motoring life. This is a good thing!

PANDAS ON THE TOP!
 
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