Technical Brake Lamp İndicator Problems
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Technical Brake Lamp İndicator Problems
No, it's not a chronic problem.
Check the brake fluid level. When the level is below minimum it lights up the warning light.
Check the brake fluid level. When the level is below minimum it lights up the warning light.
Correct it a combined fluid and handbrake warning
If the light is on, it could be either
The first quick check would be fluid, it's important to do as soon as possible and not driven the car until you do, if it's gone down there must be a leak somewhere and you could loose brakes
If the level fine, take the top off and give it a general shake, check the electrical connection, both and brake and fluid can be switches and wiring can be tested with a simple multimeter
If the light is on, it could be either
The first quick check would be fluid, it's important to do as soon as possible and not driven the car until you do, if it's gone down there must be a leak somewhere and you could loose brakes
If the level fine, take the top off and give it a general shake, check the electrical connection, both and brake and fluid can be switches and wiring can be tested with a simple multimeter
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Fluid sensor in the base of the master cylinder reservoir. We had this, a new sensor fixed it. Simple clip in after removing the fluid. Brakes did not need bleeding after. Sensor from Fiat was over £40 3 years ago.
How did you remove the fluid?
First, check the level, of course. If fluid level is low, sensor reports correctly.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I dipped a large bore clear pipe in and put my finger over the end and pulled it out. This renoved about 5 ml each time. It too a few minutes. Used a small bore pipe to get the last out. Sad but true..... LOL
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But isn't there a sieve, a filter that blocks anything going inside reservoir? Mine has that.
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Clamp the rubber pipe that leads from the fluid reservoir. Put rags under/around the clutch master cylinder and pull off the rubber pipe. Remove the clamp to drain the reservoir into a suitable container.
Yeap. That I know. Thank you!
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
No just aruuber sock that lifts out. On the Mk the clutch and brakes have separate systems so are not connected. If I remember right once empty the reservoir actually lifts off so fitting was not hard.
Diagnose the problem first
It's highly likely to be empty
And wheel cylinders were leaking last time we saw the brakes
It's highly likely to be empty
And wheel cylinders were leaking last time we saw the brakes
The OP is saying nothing... We just trow all possible scenarios.
@atakan123123, did you check the brake fluid level?
@atakan123123, did you check the brake fluid level?
They haven't been on since Friday it xmas
It's pointless filling up thread with every possible solution
Ecu
Dash
Fluid sensor
Hand brake switch
Wire to handbrake
Wire to fluid sensor
Chassis ground
And so on
Best test something and wait for a reply, otherwise the correct answer, probably the first post gets lost in pages of possible solutions
Low fluid is the most likely
Totally. Anyway, checking fluid level is top on the list.
OP
OP
Koalar always continue to surprise me. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much for your valuable answers. I haven't been able to take care of my car or myself for a while due to a minor health issue.
Yes, it turned out the problem was due to the hydraulic fluid level approaching the minimum. After topping up the fluid, the warning light went off.
There was some brake fluid leaking from my rear brake pistons. I had already bought new ones but didn't have time to change them. I think I'll need to install new pistons soon.
Honestly, I’m very glad that it wasn’t an electrical issue or a sensor failure. It turns out to be the simplest and most cost-effective problem I could have faced.
Thank you so much for your valuable answers. I haven't been able to take care of my car or myself for a while due to a minor health issue.
Yes, it turned out the problem was due to the hydraulic fluid level approaching the minimum. After topping up the fluid, the warning light went off.
There was some brake fluid leaking from my rear brake pistons. I had already bought new ones but didn't have time to change them. I think I'll need to install new pistons soon.
Honestly, I’m very glad that it wasn’t an electrical issue or a sensor failure. It turns out to be the simplest and most cost-effective problem I could have faced.
That's the first answer you got.
Yet... Koalar always continues to surprise you?!
Ok...
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Rear slaves are easy to replace but you'll need to spin the cylinder off the brake pipe. If you simply turn the flare nut, the steel pipe will twist and break.
Once the cylinder is removed, use a gas lighter flame to warm the flare nut. That will soften the plastic coating and free the nut. The bare metal will need protection with paint or copper grease. While under there, check the flexible rubber hose for age related cracking. I cut mine, spun off the fragment and replaced the swing arm hard line and rubber with a long braided hose.
Once the cylinder is removed, use a gas lighter flame to warm the flare nut. That will soften the plastic coating and free the nut. The bare metal will need protection with paint or copper grease. While under there, check the flexible rubber hose for age related cracking. I cut mine, spun off the fragment and replaced the swing arm hard line and rubber with a long braided hose.
