These pads were on the car when we bought it so I dont know. The score was a huge lump of what should bescintered metal material. Faulty pad. May be someone fitted non ABS pads. I usually take the car for a few days and ensure brakes and tyres get run in so normally the answer would be yes.
I dont know but there are different pads with and without. May be due to the intense cycling of the ABS system
This makes no sense at all; the ABS isn't cycled, except in rare emergency braking situations.
Brakes are simple
Im about to do the rears on our 1.2 and this has sounded a warning as that is also 2011. Thanks for the warning.
Maybe Ive been labouring under a massive misconception for many years. Ive had so many occasions where apparently the same car / pad have had ABS and non ABS pads. Ive always asssumed it was the pad as the discs were the same across all models. You learn something everyday.
For the cost why not just put new discs on the front?
I'm wondering about this too. Absolutely no criticism of you Panda Nut, my heart bleeds for you, I know just how you must feel as I'm finding my aging body and associated aches and pains are now impacting considerably on what I can manage to do. However, new discs aren't that pricey and there would be little by way of extra labour charge to do them at the same time, so I'm puzzled why you've gone with cleaning up the old ones?
They seem Farr to loose looser then any pads I've seen
There absolutely fine there is only a few thou clearance
This is against the fitting instructions that come from most pad manufacturers
Freeze to move didn't mean loose
Correct
Well they are only 10 months or so old and only about 6000 miles on them. I was looking today and the N/S is seemingly good its polished up after my last work but the off side has a 7mm band round the outer edge where the pads just arn't doing anything. I think a flapper wheel will be able to clean the rust away if the back side is no worse. I will tell the garage to change the discs if there is more corrosion or uneven wear. You are right and it would probably best to start afresh I can get the discs refaced properly for the next time. The brakes work OK apart form a long pedal which may well be lazy adjusters but I know the dust seals are damaged on the calipers. I wish they had just left the adjutment manual. I have never had a rear brake adjuster that worked for long. The pistons are free as I always give them a good work out / in and our when the pads are changed and they ahve been cleaned and checked twice since hte discs were changed, but once the seal is gone its only a matter of time till they will stick. Its not much more costly to change them than do a re-seal job. Garage say they will use TRW calipers which should be OK I have to say I have little expectation that this will sort the issue I think its just bad engineering. On the health front I am slowly getting better but back to hospital in 10 days as I may now have a gall bladder problem. I wish they'd just dive in and cut out and chuck out all the old bits, lumps and growths in one go! I would if I were a surgeon. It cannot be effective to do only part of the problem and keep going back. I suppose that comment should make me see sense and do the same here!
That must be the 312 or 100HP?? The good old 169 has no such luxuries the pads are just hanging in the caliper bracket. The really annoying thing is I can see absolutely nothing to cause this rusting issue. The slider pins do have a rubber collar sleve. My suspicion is that the rubber goes soft and allows the caliper to flex and this then causes the brakes to effectively stick. When you check it all out with no load it would all work just fine, as indeed it does
