New cylinder leaks. Installing tips.
My brand new cylinder started to leak after one week or so...
There is a lot of play in the mounting holes. Animated GIF (click if static). So which position is a "correct" one?
Let's start with manual from Master/Slave cylinders manufacturer.
View attachment FTE_-_Hydraulic_clutch_actuation_basics.pdf
Pump (Master) has 2 degrees allowance (how much you can tilt/cock the piston).
So Master has internal ball joint to let the pushrod tilt. Animation GIF (click).
So it will not disturb the seals during the stroke (click to play GIF).
Slave actuator has plus/minus 2 degrees too. But internals are different, no joints, so seal is cocking. Bench test, master+slave. Stroke is the same on the bench and installed in the car, so nothing is restricting it.
By the way, you can make up to 20 bar by pushing the pump rod freehand. GIF (click if static).
There is no limiting in the system, you can exceed the nominal pressure (40 bar). Animation.
Question for you. Is there a part missing (some rubber pad, "stop") in my car? Under the clutch pedal, there's a hole. Check yours.
So, the leak is probably caused by excessive tilting of the clutch slave rod (and seal). Which depends on installing position, angle. There is wiggle room (bolts). But another source of tilt can be clutch release bearing fork, the bushings (worn out). So check them too. Bearing and fork (and those plastic bushings) are the most sensitive parts of the clutch system in this model.
Slave leaks can be also caused by wrong type of bearing installed (height, so disturbing/limiting the stroke), so new cylinders will keep blowing the seals. Another thing is a bent fork (or wrong one).
Anyway, check Page 3 for modification.
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