Would you put Halfords oil in your car?

[(CZ)enda]

1L at most, unless the oil filter wasn't changed, my 999cc uno used over 4L on an oil change

IIRC, my late 999 ccm Fire needed about 3,5 l of oil, including the filter change.
1108 ccm Fire is about the same - I changed the oil and filter in my Punto 55 about a week ago.

 

[Singh!]

from a 5L bottle, a 1.2 super-FIRE engine only uses just over half of it for an oil change.

thats what i thought
will be in-touch with the garage today...

 

[tim1989]

i need to go get oil today what should i get i dont wont any cheap **** in my car but i need it today

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

i need to go get oil today what should i get i dont wont any cheap **** in my car but i need it today

Oil is bloody oil :bang:

Come to my somerfields forecourt and you can pay £40+ for 4L of top brand oil, or go motor factors and pay only £17 for 5L!

 

[Andy Monty]

Oil is bloody oil :bang:

Come to my somerfields forecourt and you can pay £40+ for 4L of top brand oil, or go motor factors and pay only £17 for 5L!

:yeahthat:

as long as it satisfies the correct grade and quality as stated in the handbook it will be fine...

 

[Jai]

both turbos and the paj run fine on halfords 10w40, i see no reason to change

 

[RustyBravo]

i would, but thats only because i work there and get it on trade.... *blushes* being a student, every little helps!

 

[puntomadboy]

i just use halfords own brand 10w/40.. works fine for me... in my eyes oil is only oil.

 

[pooroldcodger]

i just use halfords own brand 10w/40.. works fine for me... in my eyes oil is only oil.

My brother is in the oil business, selling to garages, local councils etc. He says that assuming all oil is the same is like saying all coffee's the same - it isn't. It can be blended to make it cheaper etc. etc. with detrimental results with your engine.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

My brother is in the oil business, selling to garages, local councils etc. He says that assuming all oil is the same is like saying all coffee's the same - it isn't. It can be blended to make it cheaper etc. etc. with detrimental results with your engine.

Yes and no. It still needs to do what it says on the tin (tub) though in regard to viscousity and grade or it will be failing under the trades discription act. The best thing for your engine isnt oil at £15 a litre, but making sure its changed fully at regular intivals and not left in there forever

Jon.

 

[The Beard]

Just to throw petrol (or oil) on the fire, I think it also depends what kind of driving you do. Oil not only has to lubrucate, but carry away metal filings and cool the engine as well. If you drive high mileages or use a lot of revs, then I'd probably use a better quality oil. Just commuting 5,000 miles a year and never using more than 2,500 revs should mean it's OK to use cheap stuff.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Just to throw petrol (or oil) on the fire, I think it also depends what kind of driving you do. Oil not only has to lubrucate, but carry away metal filings and cool the engine as well. If you drive high mileages or use a lot of revs, then I'd probably use a better quality oil. Just commuting 5,000 miles a year and never using more than 2,500 revs should mean it's OK to use cheap stuff.

Rev's shouldn't have to much to do with it, it the correct grade of oil is used and you wait until the engine is upto temp before revving to hell and back.

 

[The Beard]

Rev's shouldn't have to much to do with it, it the correct grade of oil is used and you wait until the engine is upto temp before revving to hell and back.

In theory I'd agree with you, but oil is like almost any other comodity. The better quality it is, the better it should do its job.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

In theory I'd agree with you, but oil is like almost any other comodity. The better quality it is, the better it should do its job.

True, but the difference that it makes would only be noticed if you were do to say something crazy like 600,000 miles with an engine thats been laboured hard most of its life.

In cars it's not really anything to worry about to much. I've been told the best place for oil is Lidl, as the standards in Germany are much higher than they are over here!

Jon.

 

[The Beard]

True, but the difference that it makes would only be noticed if you were do to say something crazy like 600,000 miles with an engine thats been laboured hard most of its life.

In cars it's not really anything to worry about to much. I've been told the best place for oil is Lidl, as the standards in Germany are much higher than they are over here!

Jon.

I think you're echoing what I said. High mileage cars and those that are run at
high revs or temperatures need better quality oil more than low mileage cars that don't rev particularly high.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

I think you're echoing what I said. High mileage cars and those that are run at
high revs or temperatures need better quality oil more than low mileage cars that don't rev particularly high.

What would you call high mileage cars though.

The reverse could be applied. Citys cars can often be reved more, also they do more stop start, which is where the oil is put to the test the most.

Jon.

 

[The Beard]

What would you call high mileage cars though.

The reverse could be applied. Citys cars can often be reved more, also they do more stop start, which is where the oil is put to the test the most.

Jon.

Most of my commuting gearchanges are done at 2000 in the Panda MJ and 2500 in the Stilo 1.4. Not much stress there. If you're cooling system is working OK there shouldn't be much of a problem with overheating and that can take some of the strain off the oil.