500 (Classic) "Sophia's" Restoration

[LiteRye]

After rereading this: “Can anyone determine if they’re worth rebuilding or am I just better off going the rebuilt route?”
I realized it isn’t clear. It should have read:
Can anyone determine if they’re worth rebuilding myself or am I just better off buying a rebuilt one?

 

[fiat500]

After rereading this: “Can anyone determine if they’re worth rebuilding or am I just better off going the rebuilt route?”
I realized it isn’t clear. It should have read:
Can anyone determine if they’re worth rebuilding myself or am I just better off buying a rebuilt one?

I would do it yourself. You're halfway there already. My experience with a professionally rebuilt starter motor was that it failed after six months and then I had to rebuild it properly with new bronze bushes etc. There will be good, rebuilt dynamos out there, but there's very little to it. Removing and refitting are the hardest parts. [emoji6]

 

[LiteRye]

Is there a guide on here somewhere that gives instructions?

Also, how do I see if the armature and coils are still good?

 

[jackwhoo]

Is there a guide on here somewhere that gives instructions?

Also, how do I see if the armature and coils are still good?

I don't know about a guide on here but try Google for dynamo answers.
From memory a dynamo is pretty much an electric motor so if you connect to a battery of the correct voltage respecting correct polarity and the rotor spins then its working.

A check that the field coil/s are not open circuit can be made with a basic electrical multi meter.

A check the armature does not have any open circuit windings can be made with a basic multi meter.

 

[the hobbler]

My factory work-shop manual has a full description on how to strip and re-build your dynamo--would you like me to copy it out and pop it into the post for you?

 

[LiteRye]

Thanks Thomas. I’m trying to track down my Haynes manual right now. I brought it into the house for some leisurely perusal and can’t find it now. I’ll let you know if I can’t find it

 

[LiteRye]

I don't know about a guide on here but try Google for dynamo answers.
From memory a dynamo is pretty much an electric motor so if you connect to a battery of the correct voltage respecting correct polarity and the rotor spins then its working.

A check that the field coil/s are not open circuit can be made with a basic electrical multi meter.

A check the armature does not have any open circuit windings can be made with a basic multi meter.

Thanks Jack. I’ll break out the multimeter this weekend

 

[LiteRye]

Picked up the tin from the sandblasters and head and jugs from the engine shop today.

 

[F30Msport]

Exciting! What did you have the engine shop do?

 

[LiteRye]

Exciting! What did you have the engine shop do?

Had a broken exhaust stud removed and helicoil put in, head skimmed and the cylinders deglazed.

 

[the hobbler]

To prevent another damaged exhaust-bolt thread in the head (which could prove expensive and inconvenient to repair) may I suggest that you put studs into the head to hold the exhaust elbows in place. Deep enough on the 'in-the -head' thread to 'lock in' against the head casting, and enough thread on the outside to enable you to secure the exhaust elbow with 2 PLAIN nuts---1 to secure the exhaust and the 2nd to 'lock' the 1st nut---do NOT use 'locking' nuts of any description. You will have to put the exhaust elbow on 1st (and seperately) but in all the years that I have used this system, I have never had a problem with the threads in the head.

 

[LiteRye]

Thanks Thomas. That’s the plan.

 

[Bigvtwin996]

.......do NOT use 'locking' nuts of any description. .......

Hi Tom why do you say not to use locking nuts?

 

[the hobbler]

The reason for using studs and nuts to hold the exhaust 'elbows' in place is so that you never have to try and pull a bolt out of the cylinder-head, which very likely will, if the bolt has been in for a long time, come out with a fair bit of the cylinder head still in the thread. If you use 'locking' nuts, there is always the chance that the 'locking' nut' will, when you unwind it, will 'nip-up on the stud and pull the stud out with it, and a fair chunk of cylinder alloy. By using 2 PLAIN nuts, one secures the exhaust 'elbow' and the 2nd 'locks' the 1st nut. When you come to remove the exhaust elbow, you hold the 'securing' nut with a spanner, and release the 'locking' nut. The chances of the stud coming out with either nut is remote---to the point I have never suffered that problem, and I have built up a few heads.

 

[LiteRye]

Today while going through my bin of parts and bits for the car I was delighted to find a baggy from the Hobbler with exhaust manifold studs and nuts. I forgot you had sent me this. Thank you kind sir! This project wouldn’t be as great without your help!

 

[LiteRye]

This thermostat should be fine to reinstall, right?

 

[the hobbler]

Er, no!----I think that you could safely say--"it's past its sell by date"!

 

[LiteRye]

Need to place one more big order from overseas and then I’ll be ready to start the rebuild!

 

[Bounding Bambino]

Dont max out the capacity on that engine stand.


One suggestion, again i dont know what your cosmetic choices are for the engine. But your at the perfect stage to cerakote the block. Even though i dont have the tins on my block yet (waiting to powder coat them), but cerakoting the block was one of the best cosmetic improvements ive done to it. Looks super slick. Should be easily available in the US. If your down to do your own painting..




Its interesting that there are a few build threads going on all at the same time this past year. All at different stages, but we are all on the path to the same goal. A restored and enjoyable 500

 

[LiteRye]

Dont max out the capacity on that engine stand.


One suggestion, again i dont know what your cosmetic choices are for the engine. But your at the perfect stage to cerakote the block. Even though i dont have the tins on my block yet (waiting to powder coat them), but cerakoting the block was one of the best cosmetic improvements ive done to it. Looks super slick. Should be easily available in the US. If your down to do your own painting..




Its interesting that there are a few build threads going on all at the same time this past year. All at different stages, but we are all on the path to the same goal. A restored and enjoyable 500

Thanks for the idea! Do you have a photo of how yours came out?