Technical Shock absorbers

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

My car just failed the MOT for a loose rear axle mounting bolt. WTF !!!!

I had visions of a hub carrier wobbling about. Got it home, jacked up onto stands - pulled and tugged and could find absolutely nothing wrong. Call to the garage and the mechanic said, "Oh yes, its the big pivot bolt". I got underneath and sure enough one was loose. I got on it with a pair of 19mm open enders and after much cranking it was tight. The nut has a very strong self locking grip so who knows how it got loose. Suggest folks check theirs.

He also said both rear wheel bearings were shot. But again there is zero slack and I had just fitted new brake pads (discs are good BTW) so maybe they are the source of the noise. Anyway, Ive spent some more hard-earned with S4P for a pair of new hubs.

Was that bolt causing clonks and rattles? Were the rear bearings howling? I dont think so but will find out when it's running again.

That really is a strange one about the bolt isn't it. How much did it do up by?

Your rear wheel bearings are puzzling me too. To describe the bearings as being "shot" implies they are well gone. You seem a knowledgeable person where cars are concerned and you say you've heard no noises when driving also no detectable play? At MOT the wheel will be rocked and then spun to check for problems but the car will not be driven? So the tester actually has less of a chance of detecting a "bad un" than when you're driving around in the car. Can't believe an MOT tester would mistake pads rubbing on discs for a bad bearing and seems unlikely, although not impossible, that both bearings would be croaked at the same time. Did you ask him for detail on why he's advised against them?

I just re-read the above and maybe I've "come on a bit strong"? I'm not meaning to cause any offence I'm just puzzled as to why you're going off to buy new ones when you are obviously not convinced you actually need them?

 

[varesecrazy]

My rear shocks were buggered after only 19k (and 9 years)! There was definitely a clunk and I thought it was coming from the front, turns out the bushes on both the rear shocks were ruined, fortunately not too hard a fix and fairly cheap, make sure to check em.

Thats just rubber degradation.. through age ( chances are less than 10k in service that new rubbers would have fixed it)

None of this is expensive on an early 169..
Personally - I would do the droplinks 1st
As they are cheap and easy

The problem with the front end..

Where do you stop...

Your Swedish panda probably wants dampers.. when they are out you may as well do the upper bearing
Maybe springs and rubberware..

At this point the wishbone is half.out
If that is 15 years in service - a new one will make a difference

Ask about a wear test for the wishbone rubbers

 

[DaveMcT]

That really is a strange one about the bolt isn't it. How much did it do up by?

Your rear wheel bearings are puzzling me too. To describe the bearings as being "shot" implies they are well gone. You seem a knowledgeable person where cars are concerned and you say you've heard no noises when driving also no detectable play? At MOT the wheel will be rocked and then spun to check for problems but the car will not be driven? So the tester actually has less of a chance of detecting a "bad un" than when you're driving around in the car. Can't believe an MOT tester would mistake pads rubbing on discs for a bad bearing and seems unlikely, although not impossible, that both bearings would be croaked at the same time. Did you ask him for detail on why he's advised against them?

I just re-read the above and maybe I've "come on a bit strong"? I'm not meaning to cause any offence I'm just puzzled as to why you're going off to buy new ones when you are obviously not convinced you actually need them?

I think the issue is that I had just fitted new rear brake pads which have not yet bedded in. I normally fit new discs but these are hardly worn.
I do have a noisy wheel bearing (probably left front but can't be sure) so fitting new ones at the back will prove that issue. One side was on the car when I bought it. The other was replaced 30,000 miles ago with a no name brand from a local supplier. I got the new pair from S4P for £40 each so thought. "** it just change them".

The pivot bolt was loose by at least 2mm with another 10mm of free thread beyond the nut. It really was not going anywhere. The nut (self locking) is tight to turn so I've no idea how it could have worked loose. All six bolts holding the axle brackets to the car are fine (as they should be).

This is the third MoT since I had the axle zinc metal sprayed. No comments on the other two tests about loose bolts anywhere. It's possible the bolt was never done up properly and nobody spotted it. It's a mystery.

 

[DaveMcT]

Does anyone have a source of bottom ball joint rubber boots? One of mine has a split. I will superglue it, but it really needs replacing.