Technical Shock absorbers
- Thread starter MaxRed
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Technical Shock absorbers
Like Charlie (above) I'm puzzled as to what the noise you are hearing is and why you think it's the shocker. Much more usual to get noises from drop links, a/roll bar bushes, maybe even top mounts or ball joints?
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...=3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=1&SGS_COD=0&DRW_NUM=2
the top mount, spring and shock all have different part numbers
are you sure the noise is from the shock ?
Thanks guys I'll have a look at your suggestions : snowy, icy and full of bumps roads this winter in Sweden....as there has never been this kind of noises when we hit a bump we simply thought it was shockers....other than that car starts at -20 and drives like smoothly in this kind of weather 
drop links often rattle over bumps worth checking
as does the rear suspension Bush.
both far more common than the shock. Which sometimes the plastic protector fall down and rattles but can be glued back
occasionally a top mount fails. But very rare for both sides
as does the rear suspension Bush.
both far more common than the shock. Which sometimes the plastic protector fall down and rattles but can be glued back
occasionally a top mount fails. But very rare for both sides
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This isn't advisable; shock absorbers and springs are carefully matched to give optimum suspension performance.
Check the top bush on the rear shocks these have a hard life and often fail other then that they shouldn't me any rear noise
are we talking front or rear
original post doesn't specify
I assumed front as front is often dropped when referring to them
original post doesn't specify
I assumed front as front is often dropped when referring to them
I made GUIDES for it all with my 169
Droplinks as an example:
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-guides/339389-panda-suspension-droplinks-front-overhaul.html?p=4578105
Droplinks as an example:
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-guides/339389-panda-suspension-droplinks-front-overhaul.html?p=4578105
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Noises come mostly from the front side but worth check the rear too : this is what forums are helpful with...listen to the advice from blog pals...thanks a lot to you all for coming back with your suggestions so soon. Have a nice week end
PS i'll keep you posted on the subject
PS i'll keep you posted on the subject
the rears are easy to check
Park on level ground
reach around the tyre and push the rear near the top backwards and forward. It should be solid.
the rubber insert perishes leading to metal to metal clunk. Its always the top that goes First.
if it passes this test. Not loosing oil and passes the corner bounce test. Your Good to go.
Park on level ground
reach around the tyre and push the rear near the top backwards and forward. It should be solid.
the rubber insert perishes leading to metal to metal clunk. Its always the top that goes First.
if it passes this test. Not loosing oil and passes the corner bounce test. Your Good to go.
testing the front isnt as easy
sometimes you can make the noise to happen by bouncing a corner
with an assistant. you should be able to follow the sound and see any movement
however it normally ends up testing with large pry bar and some plumbers plyers
with the front wheels on the ground pry the drop link joints apart and then squeeze them back in.
with a torch on the suspension arm rear Bush. Car jacked up. Put you knees against the outer edge of tyre at the 3 and 9 o'clock. Grab the inside of the tyre opposite your knees. Alternate pushing and pulling hard at the 3 and 9 while watching the rear bush.
while there look for oil spay on the strut and the Black plastic cover is still in position.
sometimes you can make the noise to happen by bouncing a corner
with an assistant. you should be able to follow the sound and see any movement
however it normally ends up testing with large pry bar and some plumbers plyers
with the front wheels on the ground pry the drop link joints apart and then squeeze them back in.
with a torch on the suspension arm rear Bush. Car jacked up. Put you knees against the outer edge of tyre at the 3 and 9 o'clock. Grab the inside of the tyre opposite your knees. Alternate pushing and pulling hard at the 3 and 9 while watching the rear bush.
while there look for oil spay on the strut and the Black plastic cover is still in position.
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I had to change my front Shocks prior to my last MOT. I’d noticed a clonking noise on the passenger side, on bumps - and a noticeable increased dip when braking on that side.
My passenger Shock was shot, the wheel arch and other bits nice and oily but none in the Shock itself ! I think I killed it down a country lane’s massive pothole.
I fitted a new set of Bilstein B4 Gas Shocks and new dust covers for just over £100. These may seem a bit posh for a 1.1 Active Panda but the ride is now beautifully smooth and the car feels so much more ‘planted’ when ‘at speed’.
The springs just needed an oily rag wipe, with no sign of corrosion or damage either.
My passenger Shock was shot, the wheel arch and other bits nice and oily but none in the Shock itself ! I think I killed it down a country lane’s massive pothole.
I fitted a new set of Bilstein B4 Gas Shocks and new dust covers for just over £100. These may seem a bit posh for a 1.1 Active Panda but the ride is now beautifully smooth and the car feels so much more ‘planted’ when ‘at speed’.
The springs just needed an oily rag wipe, with no sign of corrosion or damage either.
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Really? The 100HP rear road springs are identical to the 1.2 dynamic except about 10% has been lopped off the height. To be fair, the shocks do have different OEM numbers, but go to any parts provider and they'll give you the same things.
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Febi Bilstein bump stops usually fitted to the Fiat Coupe work well on the Panda.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Sup...742501&hash=item287bf9ec56:g:tFYAAOSwwbhgFDo~
The rear shocks top mount bolts are easy to get cross-threaded. Fit them first and be careful. They have self cleaning threads which will chew up the threads if you get them crossed-up. The bottom bolts go in easily so best fitted last.
The rear shocks mounting should be fitted "loose" then jack up the swing arm to 50% hight before tightening the bolts. This avoid the rubbers getting too twisted and life shortened.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Sup...742501&hash=item287bf9ec56:g:tFYAAOSwwbhgFDo~
The rear shocks top mount bolts are easy to get cross-threaded. Fit them first and be careful. They have self cleaning threads which will chew up the threads if you get them crossed-up. The bottom bolts go in easily so best fitted last.
The rear shocks mounting should be fitted "loose" then jack up the swing arm to 50% hight before tightening the bolts. This avoid the rubbers getting too twisted and life shortened.
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Thanks guys I'll have a look at your suggestions : snowy, icy and full of bumps roads this winter in Sweden....as there has never been this kind of noises when we hit a bump we simply thought it was shockers....other than that car starts at -20 and drives like smoothly in this kind of weather
When was the last suspension work performed?
The sequence with my 2004 on tarmac:asphalt
Droplinks 3 years 25k
Shock absorber Dampers 40k
Wishbones.. rubber failed through age...at around 8 years
The timing of the GUIDES that I posted are accurate
I did the rear dampers last.. probably 10 years..
Thanks guys I'll have a look at your suggestions : snowy, icy and full of bumps roads this winter in Sweden....as there has never been this kind of noises when we hit a bump we simply thought it was shockers....other than that car starts at -20 and drives like smoothly in this kind of weather
When was the last suspension work performed?
The sequence with my 2004 on tarmac:asphalt
Droplinks 3 years 25k
Shock absorber Dampers 40k
Wishbones.. rubber failed through age...at around 8 years
The timing of the GUIDES that I posted are accurate
I did the rear dampers last.. probably 10 years.. actually 12 !!
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-guides/443637-panda-rear-suspension-replacement.html?p=4525160
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My car just failed the MOT for a loose rear axle mounting bolt. WTF !!!!
I had visions of a hub carrier wobbling about. Got it home, jacked up onto stands - pulled and tugged and could find absolutely nothing wrong. Call to the garage and the mechanic said, "Oh yes, its the big pivot bolt". I got underneath and sure enough one was loose. I got on it with a pair of 19mm open enders and after much cranking it was tight. The nut has a very strong self locking grip so who knows how it got loose. Suggest folks check theirs.
He also said both rear wheel bearings were shot. But again there is zero slack and I had just fitted new brake pads (discs are good BTW) so maybe they are the source of the noise. Anyway, Ive spent some more hard-earned with S4P for a pair of new hubs.
Was that bolt causing clonks and rattles? Were the rear bearings howling? I dont think so but will find out when it's running again.
I had visions of a hub carrier wobbling about. Got it home, jacked up onto stands - pulled and tugged and could find absolutely nothing wrong. Call to the garage and the mechanic said, "Oh yes, its the big pivot bolt". I got underneath and sure enough one was loose. I got on it with a pair of 19mm open enders and after much cranking it was tight. The nut has a very strong self locking grip so who knows how it got loose. Suggest folks check theirs.
He also said both rear wheel bearings were shot. But again there is zero slack and I had just fitted new brake pads (discs are good BTW) so maybe they are the source of the noise. Anyway, Ive spent some more hard-earned with S4P for a pair of new hubs.
Was that bolt causing clonks and rattles? Were the rear bearings howling? I dont think so but will find out when it's running again.
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My rear shocks were buggered after only 19k (and 9 years)! There was definitely a clunk and I thought it was coming from the front, turns out the bushes on both the rear shocks were ruined, fortunately not too hard a fix and fairly cheap, make sure to check em.
