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500 (Classic) Raukstern's 500F -65 rebuild

Introduction

Hi guys,
My first post except for introducing myself in the newbe thread :)

My 500F (my first 500) is in need ofa major restoration/rebuild. I´ve started small, removing doors and interior and cut out the right hand side floor board so far. The rust is far gone :( Some holes, but what is worse is that all the all surrounding sheet metal has serious surface corrosion. So mutch that I fear it´s to thin to be weldable. (Is that a word?) :rolleyes:


I have borrowed a jigg/cradle (or what it might be called in english) to suspend the car in, so that I can rotate it and don´t have to cut and weld om my back.

Now to my first question:
Where do I attatch the mountings in the front?
In the back I´ve seen pic´s online how to mount it. Has anyone here done this and have some pointers?

A few pics to lively up the post. (y) (for some reason some pics gets turned, cant figure out why)
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Hi guys and gals,

Does anyone recognise this fuse box and swiches? Does it even belong in a Cinqucento?
I got in in a box with a lot of other junk when I bought the car, But I guess its mostly a lot of rubbish he wanted to get rid of.


/Seb
 

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The switches are pretty standard but the fusebox looks to be one from a 126 as it has 8 fuses not the normal 6 in a 500. Cant see why it would not be suitable for a 500 and it gives you 2 extra fuses for any additional equipment you may want to fit.




https://www.ricambio.co.uk/image/cache/cache/3001-4000/3915/main/2f24-img-6888-0-1-1000x1000w.jpg


Thanks so much för your reply. I just wanted to make sure.

I think I will be buying i brand new wireing harness for my projekt. But time will tell, my original harness is still in place, ready to be removed.

Planning to meet the soda blaster this week to have s chat. I´m bit afraid he will say there´ll be nothing left after blasting :eek:

/Seb
 
Soda or vegetale blasting was used on my 1976 TVR 3000M Bonnet was super 100% result.
If the operator knows what he's doing and adapts the Media + the Pressure you will have a fantastic result.
Of course my TVR is GRP so you need to be delicate.
No problems with Blasting it's cheaper, saves time and top result.
Alan
 
So, I met with "Mr blaster" yesterday. Nice chap and he came with good input. Came to see me in my work shop, no less. :) He sees no problem with the projekt. He suggested we take it in sektions, not the whole car at once. He´s located really close and the 500 is easy to move.

I had the idea I´d blast the whole car at once, but this might work too. Do you have any ideas or input on this?

Also last night I got to remove the rest of the tie rods and the lever bearing block from the front end. ( baby steps :) )

But as you can see in the second picture I found something I don´t think is original. ;) Looks like someone welded in some kind of support. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Is it a weak spot in these cars?

/Seb
 

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You are correct in thinking that is not original.It has been fitted to strengthen the lifting/towing point. The 126s had a plate welded across at this point (from factory) which I duplicated when the front end of my car was rebuilt, mainly because I had planned (and have done) some shows which are a 5 hour tow away with the Fiat on my trailer, and I have to winch the Fiat on to the trailer. Personally, I would leave it on.
 
I thought t was a sacrificial anode like canal boats have... due to the amount of rain and the salt added in winter to the roads... in a hope that, that would corrode rather than the rest of the car..
 
Work goes on to strip the car for blasting. Since all of this (with a 500) is new to me, its a slow but steady progress. After most of the mecanic stuff is out, my attention is turned on the electrics and wires.
I´m quite certain I will buy a new wire loom, but I make sure to mark everything up anyway. Allways good to be able to back track later.
Started from the back, working my way forwards.

I think there are after market wire looms available that are marked out and numbered. That would be sweet.(y)

Also got the wiper mechanism out when I got to the front, as it was tangled in all the front wires.:yuck:

.
 

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Striptease...
Last night I got to most of the remaining components in the front end. Steering column, steering box, master cylinder and pedals.
All of it came lose surpricingly easy.

As dirty as it is, I have hopes on being able to use the steering box in the future. Maybe even the master cylinder after an overhaul.

Unfortunatly the wheel and column switches are in bad shape, one of the switches broken.

.
 

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Great thread. Watching with interest. I would advise (if I may be so bold) that you look to replace the master cyclinder. Cheap insurance for not a lot of cash.

Regards
Rob
 
Onward...

Last night I finished stripping the elecrical system and the harness. I quickly abandoned the idea of getting it out in one piece. The hole from trunk bay to the cupé was far to narrow go get the entire front part of the loom through.
So I took the easy way out and cut the wires close to the torpedo wall, numbering them just in case. As I´ve mentioned earlier I´m planning on a new harness anyway. But I want to be able to back track if I ever get the need.

.
 

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With the harness out I focused on removing the cables and other components from the center tunnel thingy. (sorry, been a long time, 25 years, since I lived in the states and I´ve lost most of my car terminology, among other things, so bare with me. Hopefully it might provide you with a few giggles) :)
Throttle wire, fuel lead, brake line, handbrake wires, and whatever the two small handles in front of the emergency brake does. I´ve gahtered one is to start the engine, but the other? Please explain :worship:

The last pic I guess is a hand throttle/choke wire thingy?

/Seb
 

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Well, finally I´m allmost there. Most of the loose components are gone, just a few more things left, including removing some muck from the engine bay, and then off to the blaster master.

.
 

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The right hand lever in front of the hand-brake is the starter-lever---the ignition switch is just that; it merely makes the ignition circuit 'live'. The left hand lever is for the choke control (although tehnically, it is just a 'fuel enrichment' device, the carb does not have a second 'choke' butterfly). The pull-wire under the centre of the dash and attached to the central air-passage, is a 'hand-throttle' which has a short wire that leads to the small lever on the thottle bar. It is NOT a cruise-control and must NEVER be used as such--it is merely a device to allow you to set a fast idle for a quicker engine warm-up.
 
The lever is attached to the starter bendix-arm by a wire. By pulling on the lever, you pull the bendix-arm, which is pivoted, and this then pulls the bendix into the flywheel ring-gear. At the same time that the bendix slides into the ring gear, an electrical connection is made inside the lever-cover (on the starter) when then energises the starter, and with a bit of luck, then turns the engine
 
Last stint done!

Yesterday evening I got the remaining components out of the car and its now ready for the blasters. I´m so looking forward to get cracking on the rapair work on the chassis/body. (Something I will probably regret saying later) ;)

I´ve earlier posted the question in my "questions thread", but didn´t get any replays, so I´ll try here.

1.
I´m gonna need to remove/replace both the front panel and the trunk dish.
How much of the stability of the chassis is dependant on these?
I have seen pics of 500´s with both of them revoved, but cant determine the support of the car in these pics.
Is is ok to remove both? I mean, the front panel needs to be gone to get to the trunk dish properly, right?
(My car is for the moment on stands.)

2.
I´ve seen front panel removed, with the rivots drilled. But how in **** do you get to these rivots inside the trunk? I tried to fit my regular drill in there and there is NO WAY to get to with my hands and a drill
Any special tools or techniques?



The thing is, I´m thinking it would be good to have there removed before giving it to the blasters...

Some pics from last night:

.
 

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Try and lay your hands on a "right-angle adapter" for your drill. Its drive-shaft fits into the chuck as per normal, but the drill-bit fits in at 90 degrees, so you have a much reduced drill 'height'(or length, which-ever way you want to look at it). Personally, I would leave all the panels on until the car has been blasted, that way it will retain as much shape and rigidity as possible.
The whole front end of my car was rebuilt (by a body shop), but they were able to keep it on a jig whilst they did the job. They took a whole pile of pictures whilst doing the job---if you would like to contact me direct:[email protected] I will send you those pictures if you think that they will be of help to you
 
Try and lay your hands on a "right-angle adapter" for your drill. Its drive-shaft fits into the chuck as per normal, but the drill-bit fits in at 90 degrees, so you have a much reduced drill 'height'(or length, which-ever way you want to look at it). Personally, I would leave all the panels on until the car has been blasted, that way it will retain as much shape and rigidity as possible.
The whole front end of my car was rebuilt (by a body shop), but they were able to keep it on a jig whilst they did the job. They took a whole pile of pictures whilst doing the job---if you would like to contact me direct:[email protected] I will send you those pictures if you think that they will be of help to you

Thanks, that´s a good idea. I´ll see if I can find one.

If not, I thougt I could just cut the front of "outside" the welds and the drill them out when the front is cut off.
Can anyone see at problem with that idea I´m not seeing?I need a new front anyway...

On another topic, I´m meeting the blasters tonight to talk about the upcoming blastananza :)

/Seb
 
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