Seicento My 2.0 16v Seicento Project

[Brooky]

the 279.4mm wilwood rotors will fit under 14" wheels with powerlite calipers....but the wheels need a massive offset, or the bell of the brake disc need a big offset.

 

[StoneNewt]

Surely the wheel will need a tiny or negative offset pushing the wheel further away from the calliper.

Fingers, thought this was going to be used as a track car, or am I getting projects mixed up in my head?

 

[Brooky]

Surely the wheel will need a tiny or negative offset pushing the wheel further away from the calliper.

yes,sorry im not very good with offsets.

im going for 15x7 wheels as i carnt be arsed faffing about with making new bells

 

[fingers99]

Fingers, thought this was going to be used as a track car, or am I getting projects mixed up in my head?

Think it's a road car, but the OP will tell us for sure!

 

[sei16v]

daily driver haha... urm i dont want disks much bigger than the 257mm (somewhere round that size) as i dont want the back lifting up, upon braking lol. Guessing il have a look for some of the brakes from the guides, or best scenario the punto GT set up...

Its one of them things i can upgrade in the future if i have any big issues, but at the min im trying to spare as much cash as poss as im nearly over my £1500 budget so far, haha think il be going past the £2k mark pretty soon

 

[Renrut]

Mind you, isn't the underfloor a relatively high pressure area even on non-ground effect cars? One solution that was used on several MR2s and even -- I think -- the biturbo Sei, was to stick a bloody great hole in the boot floor (vent it if you will) and vent the hot air from the rad/intercooler out to a low pressure area (the back of the hatch, a chopped out section of the rear bumper or, on the MR2, the engine lid). You could then get away with a temperature controlled fan switch, just as in a "normal" car.

Always better to let physics/aero do the work, rather than electricity..........

Yup thats what I meant. Use the underfloor high pressure area to assist air through the fans. If you have them pushing downwards into the floor then as a minimum you'll need them running constantly even at high speed to ensure enough air flow. If you duct it up from floor and out a hole in the boot (lourves or whatever venting method) you might get 3 bonus points:
Fans aren't needed to work at all at high speed.
You could create a more pleasing aero rear end, almost like having a diffuser.
Sort of F50-lite suck down onto the road at the rear end.

Obviously they all depend on you carefully and thoughtfully its done.

I know the first MR2 had its rad right out front as that was the best place for it, however it did have engine cover vents to allow air to waft up through the bay and out to try to keep engine bay temperatures in the vaguely normal.

 

[fingers99]

I know the first MR2 had its rad right out front as that was the best place for it, however it did have engine cover vents to allow air to waft up through the bay and out to try to keep engine bay temperatures in the vaguely normal.

Yes, but people who turboed them tended to put the intercooler in the engine compartment, put backard facing vents in the engine cover, and -- if they were to be used in competition, pop a fan in there just to keep the IC cool while standing on the grid. Worked very well.

 

[Renrut]

Yes, but people who turboed them tended to put the intercooler in the engine compartment, put backard facing vents in the engine cover, and -- if they were to be used in competition, pop a fan in there just to keep the IC cool while standing on the grid. Worked very well.

I'd forgotten about those. The factory supercharged ones had a problem with heat soak in their intercoolers, hence putting fans on the aftermarket turbos.

 

[sei16v]

I dont really want my rads to sit vertical (as they would in a normal engine bay) as it means having the header tank stupidly high... I was thinking if i was to vent the air through the vertical rear part of the spare wheel well rather than the very bottom then i could possibly avoid the high pressure from the underside.


If thats not possible, has anyone got any ideas what i could do?

I dont want to mash massive holes in the rear of the car where its visible as then it wouldnt be much of a sleeper...

Also as its a daily driver i need to avoid messing with windows needing to be left open 24/7

 

[Renrut]

Here is my highly detailed engineering schematic for fitting your rad

I dunno about keeping the sleeper look. It's a fairly drastic thing but you might be able to vent it out the bumper area with some louvres or similar. Or maybe make clever use of the natural gap between rear hatch and the bumper to vent the air out of.

 

[fingers99]

You want high pressure: the way it works is that high pressure will always seek low pressure. Stuffing air out of the back of the wheel well might work (let it come in from the front) but I think you'd need some kind of scoop at the front of the well (fuel tank would otherwise give you a flow obstruction) and a decently designed vent at the back. Maybe this could be designed/camoflaged as one of those faux venturi tunels modern Fords have? This is how Novitec did it clicky and clicky, although the details are pretty unclear in the pics. Easier (and neater) methinks to butcher the original cut out in the rear bumper, make it bigger.

Rads will work OK inclined to airflow (20 degrees is actually optimum). I'd think you could get an expansion tank below the shelf.

 

[arc]

at the back of the car, there are some vents already - granted i doubt they'd be big enough for the volume of air that you'd want to shift - but you could look at enlarging them. air from below the car, through the rad and out the vents in the back, into the bumper?

 

[fasted]

did all most the same thing on my rail buggy back home i made a ram air port at the front of the buggy and ran a 3in tall 12 in wide duct to the back that opened up to the size of the rad worked real well onmy buggy but if you wil have room under the car for that i dont know you might be able too use the space under a body kit to run 2 lines that join in to one it worked for the SRT4 moter i had. had a smaller duct for the innercooler worked good for me will see if my buddys can take some pics of it

 

[sei16v]

My friends been working out the rad problem today, as i was working on the hand made gear selectors... managed to get all gears... but up side down, haha... 1st is where 2nd should be, all the way through and 5th ends up being near the rear of the drivers seat..... then i realised that i needed a pivot point, so when i push it pulls and vias versa.... will get this re built tomorrow... should work now i know where i have gone wrong haha....

 

[BlueDan]

i was working on the hand made gear selectors... managed to get all gears... but up side down, haha... 1st is where 2nd should be, all the way through and 5th ends up being near the rear of the drivers seat.....

Not meant as an insult, but that sounds like something from Scraphead Challenge...

Bigger pics of the Novitec Seicento here and here - best pics of the rear bumper (and crazy biturbo manifold) here.

The bumper mods look neat (prefer a more factory look myself), you could get more airflow by enlarging that hole to include the rear numberplace recess, but then you would have to move the plate to one side and it would start to look a bit Max Power

 

[Adrian Bravo]

Not meant as an insult, but that sounds like something from Scraphead Challenge...

Bigger pics of the Novitec Seicento here and here - best pics of the rear bumper (and crazy biturbo manifold) here.

The bumper mods look neat (prefer a more factory look myself), you could get more airflow by enlarging that hole to include the rear numberplace recess, but then you would have to move the plate to one side and it would start to look a bit Max Power

Thanks for the links

 

[richydraper]

40 quid for the chip buddy he needs to know if its coil pack or dizzy

 

[sei16v]

40 quid for the chip buddy he needs to know if its coil pack or dizzy

Its dizzy, the engine runs a de-cat, no lamba, and the FP early ecu. F20 box..Any ideas on the figures/gains? For £40 its worth a giggle!!

 

[sei16v]

Heres a bit of an update of where we are with the car... Hopefully trying to get the car running for TRAX (if i can get it on the FF stand)...

The engine bay is in the process of being smoothed, and sprayed up with a fresh coat of gloss black...

The engine mounts are also in the process of being smoothed and painted...

And theres a pic or two of the scrapheap challenge style gear selector.... Please bare in mind that nothing vauxhall would fit, and nothing fiat... so we had no choice but to make something up from scratch... It will, along with everything else, be smoothed and tidied up...

 

[Brooky]

And theres a pic or two of the scrapheap challenge style gear selector.... Please bare in mind that nothing vauxhall would fit, and nothing fiat... so we had no choice but to make something up from scratch... It will, along with everything else, be smoothed and tidied up...

It shouldnt need to be smoothed and tidied up if the welding was any good