Technical Do I need to get my ECU reprogrammed/repaired?

[WildFeraligatr]

Next move would be to separate

This

View attachment 417790
And see if the corresponding pin the other side is getting 12V
View attachment 417791
There isn’t enough visible to see if bottom half of the connector is even plugged in

Righty - I'm reasonably sure that that's connected because I've tried separating it and it's not coming apart.

I'll test for voltage at the other end though, i assume i want to be testing against the battery rather than the injectors?

 

[koalar]

All voltages are tested against chassis ground or the battery negative

Black lead on the the negative lead of the battery. Red lead on the black and brown lead in the connector, ignition on

Disconnect the oil pressure switch. Black lead on a clean bit of engine, red led on the single wire, ignition on

 

[WildFeraligatr]

All voltages are tested against chassis ground or the battery negative

Black lead on the the negative lead of the battery. Red lead on the black and brown lead in the connector, ignition on

Disconnect the oil pressure switch. Black lead on a clean bit of engine, red led on the single wire, ignition on

Ok - oil switch i checked against the battery negative so will check against engine body.

The brown and black lead I tested against the injector so will give that another go against the battery negative.

 

[koalar]

Ok - oil switch i checked against the battery negative so will check against engine body.

No need to retest

The brown and black lead I tested against the injector so will give that another go against the battery negative.

Great

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Oil pressure plug: 11.1V

I rest my case!

 

[WildFeraligatr]

I rest my case!

I'm not sure what you're getting at here?

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Afternoon,

Just been out on my lunch break from work to do a bit more testing - results as follows:

Brown/black cable > battery -ve = 0v
Brown/black cable > battery +ve = 12v
Brown/black cable > fuel injector = 1.6v/0v

Fuse F17 - OK continuity and i believe 1.6v when tested against battery -ve but would need to dounle check
Relay T09 - tested 4 ports within the relay box (will label attached) against battery -ve
1 - 12v
2 - 0v
3 - 12v
4 - 1.6v

I've brought the relay inside with me for continuity testing.

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Just tested the relay and the pins for ports 3 and 4 in above attached are showing ~82.5 ohms. I would have thought if the relay were blown it would be showing nothing so hoping someone can advise?

 

[koalar]

The voltage to the injectorts
Is correct

Seeing the coils use the same I guess this will also be correct

 

[WildFeraligatr]

The voltage to the injectorts
Is correct

Seeing the coils use the same I guess this will also be correct

Sooo... no electrical faults then?

 

[koalar]

Sooo... no electrical faults then?

Nope everything fine

Except for the oil pressure switch voltage

I always thought they were all 5V ref

Maybe I am wrong post 2012 pandas are as is the 500 I have a panda here at the moment but don’t fancy lying in the rain to double check

 

[koalar]

The cam sensor on the top of the engine what volts do you get on each of the three pins with the ignition on

Black lead of the multimeter on battery negative

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Here's some voltage updates. For context this is testing the voltage with a multimeter with the +ive lead on the plug and the -ive lead on the battery negative terminal.

Oil pressure plug: 11.1V
Crankshaft sensor: 2 pins, one shows 1.4V and the other shows 2.28V
Camshaft sensor: 3 pins, 4.95V, 4.95V, 0V

Tested previously, results here

 

[koalar]

Tested previously, results here

Sorry forgot

4.95v on the first pin is the 5V ref

So that present and correct

 

[koalar]

So we have a working immobiliser

We have voltage to the coils and injectors


We have reference voltage and ground to the sensors

We have communication between the ECU, body computer and dash

There no bouncing of the rev counter of 0 during cranking

 

[WildFeraligatr]

So we have a working immobiliser

We have voltage to the coils and injectors


We have reference voltage and ground to the sensors

We have communication between the ECU, body computer and dash

There no bouncing of the rev counter of 0 during cranking

Remind me what tests we did to make sure the immo is working?

Otherwise yes, all correct

 

[koalar]

Remind me what tests we did to make sure the immo is working?

Otherwise yes, all correct

Video of the dash lights

The Immo light is working correctly

Which con only happen if all the parts are talking correctly

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Video of the dash lights

The Immo light is working correctly

Ah yeah fair enough.

In that case all correct. The only differences I would note are the following:

- after clearing faults the immo light stays on when/after cranking the engine for the first time, but goes away the second time you crank the engine
- when i tested the other day I noticed the power steering light flashing but that seems to have gone away now

 

[koalar]

With you scanner

Do the other sensors give valid results

Such as coolant temperature, ambient temperature and so on

 

[WildFeraligatr]

With you scanner

Do the other sensors give valid results

Such as coolant temperature, ambient temperature and so on

Will need to check after work but I can tell you from cranking the engine that the dash dials for the fuel tank and engine temperature appear to be functioning as normal.