Technical Do I need to replace my rusty rear axle ☹️

[lachyjb]

Looked under my 2011 Fiat Panda and saw this:

Seems to be a crack forming on the left.

Are the springs at their end of life as well?

 

[DaveMcT]

The LH spring pan will fracture at the crack. It "can" be welded but will fail again alongside the crack.
The LH spring is badly rusted and will probably break. The RH spring is already replaced, probably because the last one broke.
Both shocks are rusty. Don't be surprised if brake pipes are rusty.

Removing the axle is easy enough (low cost if paying labour costs). The axle pin bolts are extremely hard to remove when the car is not on a garage lift. I dropped the brackets from the car body (three bolts each side).

The flexible brake hoses should be cut and spun off the metal pipes. This avoids the steel getting twisted. The flare nut can be lossened with a little heat (ciggy lighter is enough). Rusty brake pipes must be replaced. Flare nut C clips will need to be replaced. New rubber hoses will be needed.

The stub axles M10 studs will be very rusty. The nuts are likely to spin in place making removal even more "fun". A garage will probably fit new stub axles. A home mechanic will remove the studs and re-use the axles with M10 fine bolts 10.9 grade.

Both of my Pandas have needed welding on the sills ahead of the rear wheel arch. One needed work on inner sill the other just along the bottom. Lots of wax on the insides keep further damage at bay.

 

[DaveMcT]

Some have gone much further, even to the extent of removing the beam, shotblasting to bare metal and then hot dip galvanising. Admirable, but a lot of work!

I had my 100HP axle grit blasted and zinc metal sprayed. Total cost £80. I should have had it epoxy finished as well. Ordinary paint is nothing like as good. Apart from taking the axle to the blast people, the job was no worse than fitting a brand new axle.

HOWEVER, back then, only option was a used axle and I had use of a spare car. Today, replacement axles are about £150.

The 100HP axle is now on my Multijet.

 

[koalar]

The LH spring pan will fracture at the crack. It "can" be welded but will fail again alongside the crack.

Where is the crack

The RH spring is already replaced, probably because the last one broke.

I don't see it as new myself

 

[thegreatbelow]

View attachment 471985

Where is the crack







View attachment 471986


I don't see it as new myself

I think the poster you've quoted may have been referring to the orignal post by the other user?

While I'm here, where's the best place to jack the car for access? Assume it's a both wheels off job too? Will be new territory for me but I do have a jack, axle stands, some wire brushes/drill bits, waxoyl and a reasonable amount of patience!

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I think the poster you've quoted may have been referring to the orignal post by the other user?

While I'm here, where's the best place to jack the car for access? Assume it's a both wheels off job too? Will be new territory for me but I do have a jack, axle stands, some wire brushes/drill bits, waxoyl and a reasonable amount of patience!

This may have some useful bits in it: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/r...e-cars-some-thoughts-and-observations.503811/ You'll notice I made some large padded lifting blocks for jacking on the sill itself? I've had considerable success doing this over the years but there's always a risk jacking on sills if they are corroded. However, since buying my Scala, I've found that it's sills are so fragile they can't be used for jacking on (of course the reinforced jacking points are still fine) so I'd not now particularly recommend jacking on an unreinforced part of a vehicle sill.

Edit. Never jack in the middle of the axle beam. If it bends it, even by a little bit, it'll throw the rear wheel geometry out and a new axle is the only cure for that!