Technical Do I need to replace my rusty rear axle ☹️
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Technical Do I need to replace my rusty rear axle ☹️
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- Sep 14, 2009
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The LH spring pan will fracture at the crack. It "can" be welded but will fail again alongside the crack.
The LH spring is badly rusted and will probably break. The RH spring is already replaced, probably because the last one broke.
Both shocks are rusty. Don't be surprised if brake pipes are rusty.
Removing the axle is easy enough (low cost if paying labour costs). The axle pin bolts are extremely hard to remove when the car is not on a garage lift. I dropped the brackets from the car body (three bolts each side).
The flexible brake hoses should be cut and spun off the metal pipes. This avoids the steel getting twisted. The flare nut can be lossened with a little heat (ciggy lighter is enough). Rusty brake pipes must be replaced. Flare nut C clips will need to be replaced. New rubber hoses will be needed.
The stub axles M10 studs will be very rusty. The nuts are likely to spin in place making removal even more "fun". A garage will probably fit new stub axles. A home mechanic will remove the studs and re-use the axles with M10 fine bolts 10.9 grade.
Both of my Pandas have needed welding on the sills ahead of the rear wheel arch. One needed work on inner sill the other just along the bottom. Lots of wax on the insides keep further damage at bay.
The LH spring is badly rusted and will probably break. The RH spring is already replaced, probably because the last one broke.
Both shocks are rusty. Don't be surprised if brake pipes are rusty.
Removing the axle is easy enough (low cost if paying labour costs). The axle pin bolts are extremely hard to remove when the car is not on a garage lift. I dropped the brackets from the car body (three bolts each side).
The flexible brake hoses should be cut and spun off the metal pipes. This avoids the steel getting twisted. The flare nut can be lossened with a little heat (ciggy lighter is enough). Rusty brake pipes must be replaced. Flare nut C clips will need to be replaced. New rubber hoses will be needed.
The stub axles M10 studs will be very rusty. The nuts are likely to spin in place making removal even more "fun". A garage will probably fit new stub axles. A home mechanic will remove the studs and re-use the axles with M10 fine bolts 10.9 grade.
Both of my Pandas have needed welding on the sills ahead of the rear wheel arch. One needed work on inner sill the other just along the bottom. Lots of wax on the insides keep further damage at bay.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
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- Points
- 3,955
I had my 100HP axle grit blasted and zinc metal sprayed. Total cost £80. I should have had it epoxy finished as well. Ordinary paint is nothing like as good. Apart from taking the axle to the blast people, the job was no worse than fitting a brand new axle.
HOWEVER, back then, only option was a used axle and I had use of a spare car. Today, replacement axles are about £150.
The 100HP axle is now on my Multijet.
I think the poster you've quoted may have been referring to the orignal post by the other user?
While I'm here, where's the best place to jack the car for access? Assume it's a both wheels off job too? Will be new territory for me but I do have a jack, axle stands, some wire brushes/drill bits, waxoyl and a reasonable amount of patience!
This may have some useful bits in it: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/r...e-cars-some-thoughts-and-observations.503811/ You'll notice I made some large padded lifting blocks for jacking on the sill itself? I've had considerable success doing this over the years but there's always a risk jacking on sills if they are corroded. However, since buying my Scala, I've found that it's sills are so fragile they can't be used for jacking on (of course the reinforced jacking points are still fine) so I'd not now particularly recommend jacking on an unreinforced part of a vehicle sill.
Edit. Never jack in the middle of the axle beam. If it bends it, even by a little bit, it'll throw the rear wheel geometry out and a new axle is the only cure for that!
There's several ways
There's no right or wrong
My preferred especially on cars where you don't know the integrity of the inner sills and jacking reinforcement points to put a trolly jack close to the spring cup on the axle, and jack each side one at a time
Then put the axle stand on the pads underneath, weight spread with some wood
Works for me
There use to be a warning label in the centre of the axle, don't jack here, normally long fallen off, someone had jacked under the centre of axle on one of the 3 pandas I owned and bent it by a centimeter or more, annoying but it didn't effect the alignment, it's the weakest part and lifting both wheels at twice the weight will bend the axle
This shows a 500, but the 169 Panda has exactly the same underbody hardpoints.
Near side is usually the worst
So looks in excellent condition under the surface rust, I am hopeful it will out last the rest of the car
Well done
Clean the dirt from the brake brackets, they do tend to rot away
So looks in excellent condition under the surface rust, I am hopeful it will out last the rest of the car
Well done
Clean the dirt from the brake brackets, they do tend to rot away
Thanks, I’ll have a go at those too. I was wary of getting too close to the brakes with the spray in case of contamination, but will have another pass.
Well done! I'd be well pleased if Becky's looked like that.
