Technical Do I need to get my ECU reprogrammed/repaired?

[WildFeraligatr]

Right - back out now.

Connecting to the OBDII reader again, there is a slight twitch on the dash when I crank the engine but nothing on the app on my phone.

 

[koalar]

Right - back out now.

Connecting to the OBDII reader again, there is a slight twitch on the dash when I crank the engine but nothing on the app on my phone.

You can see the rev counter go up slightly on dash as it’s cranking

Is this correct

 

[WildFeraligatr]

You can see the rev counter go up slightly on dash as it’s cranking

Is this correct

Not exactly - when I stop cranking it drops below 0 for a second then settles at 0 again.

 

[koalar]

Not exactly - when I stop cranking it drops below 0 for a second then settles at 0 again.

Okay

We have no crank signal at all

As per rev counter and scanner


If you clear the U1600 but don’t disconnect the battery does it come back every time you crank the car

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Okay

We have no crank signal at all

As per rev counter and scanner


If you clear the U1600 but don’t disconnect the battery does it come back every time you crank the car

Yeah, it does

 

[WildFeraligatr]

I've also got a U1602 fault but that seems occasional.

 

[koalar]

Right

The key is read by the an antenna and passed to the body computer

This is passed to the ECU

This is the only part that should have been touched changing the engine

Take the connectors off the ECU and post a closeup of the pins

 

[koalar]

You are using the original ECU ?

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Right

The key is read by the an antenna and passed to the body computer

This is passed to the ECU

This is the only part that should have been touched changing the engine

Take the connectors off the ECU and post a closeup of the pins

Here you go - I was very careful with the ECU, it was one of the first bits to come off and it's been kept in a drawer up until recently when it came to testing the engine.

Worth noting also that I think the battery is a bit low on juice (was reading 12.07V) so I've whacked that on charge while I do a bit of work on the suspension.

Currently the front right speed sensor is also disconnected but that wouldn't make any difference from what I can tell?

 

[WildFeraligatr]

You are using the original ECU ?

Yep

 

[koalar]

Here you go - I was very careful with the ECU, it was one of the first bits to come off and it's been kept in a drawer up until recently when it came to testing the engine.

Worth noting also that I think the battery is a bit low on juice (was reading 12.07V) so I've whacked that on charge while I do a bit of work on the suspension.

Currently the front right speed sensor is also disconnected but that wouldn't make any difference from what I can tell?

Great

Bottom half is 100% okay as far as I can tell

Top half is a little blurry but 98% check okay there a couple of pins I can’t see properly but look okay

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Great

Bottom half is 100% okay as far as I can tell

Top half is a little blurry but 98% check okay there a couple of pins I can’t see properly but look okay

Sorry mate - hows this?

 

[koalar]

And a closeup of the connector please

 

[WildFeraligatr]

And a closeup of the connector please

Here you go

 

[koalar]

Great is this plastic at metal strand ?

 

[WildFeraligatr]

Just a bit of fabric/fluff

 

[koalar]

Changing the engine

These are the only two wire that should have been disturbed that have anything to do with the code system

Both on the ECU

 

[koalar]

Factory radio ?

 

[koalar]

I guess the next test is to check the fuse box in the engine bay nothing got knocked

Then make sure the ECU is getting power

 

[WildFeraligatr]

You may have to explain the wiring diagram to me here - what am I looking at?

It's got an aftermarket radio so can remove that and see if anything changes?

Will check the fuse box quick now - would an ECU power check be a standard volt/amp/continuity check using a multimeter i assume?