Technical brake shoes need changing
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Technical brake shoes need changing
Simple enough but I've done a few - my first was a learning experience.
Because its the brakes get a mate who knows to supervise your work if it's your first time or if you are in anyway unsure. Dont rely on a jack to support the car .
Take the wheel off and remove the screws on the face of the drum. Slacken off the handbrake cables completely at the adjuster. The drum should pull off the hub. Good practice to mark it so it goes back the same way. Take a pic of the way the springs are attached to the shoes - you will forget. At the bottom of the rearmost shoe the handbrake cable needs to be disconnected - method varies with different models. The upper and lower springs can be unhooked with longnose pliers and screwdrivers and there are two squarish lock tabs that retain the shoes about halfway down each one. If you havn't done this before it can be fiddly. Check the cylinder for free movement and leaks. Fitting is the reverse as they say. Don't tighten the handbrake until you have pressed the pedal a few times to set the auto adjuster.
Because its the brakes get a mate who knows to supervise your work if it's your first time or if you are in anyway unsure. Dont rely on a jack to support the car .
Take the wheel off and remove the screws on the face of the drum. Slacken off the handbrake cables completely at the adjuster. The drum should pull off the hub. Good practice to mark it so it goes back the same way. Take a pic of the way the springs are attached to the shoes - you will forget. At the bottom of the rearmost shoe the handbrake cable needs to be disconnected - method varies with different models. The upper and lower springs can be unhooked with longnose pliers and screwdrivers and there are two squarish lock tabs that retain the shoes about halfway down each one. If you havn't done this before it can be fiddly. Check the cylinder for free movement and leaks. Fitting is the reverse as they say. Don't tighten the handbrake until you have pressed the pedal a few times to set the auto adjuster.
might be some thing in here https://www.fiatforum.com/guides maybe not in the punto section but another with same brakes
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take some photos with your phone up2 nogud as you go so you can refer to them as you refit
remember to do the same for both sides
remember to do the same for both sides
lots of posts on this so do a search
can be difficult to remove drum as shoes will a worn a lip in the inside
there is a plastic disc on the backing plate that you can prise off and then use a screwdriver to force the shoes away from the drum and make removal easier; make sure you slacken the handbrake cables inside the car;
this is an old car so strongly advise replacing all rear brake companents paticularly the wheel cylinders but also the drums, springs (can buy as a "fitting kit"), flexible hoses, handbrake cables (and of course the shoes);
this model was subject to a recall because of corrosion of the steel brake pipes on the rear beam axle so check that these have been replaced, if not or any of the steel pipes are corroded or lost their plastic coating then replace with copper ones;
you will need some special brake spanners and if doing the metal pipes also a brake pipe flaring kit, connectors and of course some pipe.....
can be difficult to remove drum as shoes will a worn a lip in the inside
there is a plastic disc on the backing plate that you can prise off and then use a screwdriver to force the shoes away from the drum and make removal easier; make sure you slacken the handbrake cables inside the car;
this is an old car so strongly advise replacing all rear brake companents paticularly the wheel cylinders but also the drums, springs (can buy as a "fitting kit"), flexible hoses, handbrake cables (and of course the shoes);
this model was subject to a recall because of corrosion of the steel brake pipes on the rear beam axle so check that these have been replaced, if not or any of the steel pipes are corroded or lost their plastic coating then replace with copper ones;
you will need some special brake spanners and if doing the metal pipes also a brake pipe flaring kit, connectors and of course some pipe.....
good idea to take photos but also do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a template.....
this should give you some idea
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto-guides/235078-rear-drum-strip-clean.html
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto-guides/235078-rear-drum-strip-clean.html
Proper support is not an old wives tale -
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2011/0930/1224304999134.html
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2011/0930/1224304999134.html
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Get a Haynes manual. Not perfect but good for most things.
If the drums are worn and hard to remove replace them and consider replacing the hydraulic wheel cylinders.
If the drums are worn and hard to remove replace them and consider replacing the hydraulic wheel cylinders.
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Rear Drums are Pips 
A Decent STRONG screwdriver is your friend when it comes to the drums
The springs used are strong, and can be tricky to force back into place
Sometimes they refuse to come out
For Rear Drums
A 12mm deep socket or spanner for the Tyre Guides
A Set of Stands - jacks for support are a no no
NEVER USE JUST A JACK! USE AXLE STANDS
A Set of Plumers pliers / mole Grips / Chunky pliers
a Decent Thick Shafted posi or flat screwdriver
A Hammer comes handy
TIME
If you know what your doing putting them together is easy
First time expect a few hours per side
As for the Rear Cylinders, take care! be prepared that the Brake pipe MIGHT have corroded with the connector that screws into the Cylinder
When Removing the rear cyclinder i'd be taking care that the Pipe ISN'T twisting with the connector
if it is - prepare for a New Brake Pipe - You might as well replace the flexi too (only £10 and often get overlooked)
just becareful again if the master cyclinder to the slave cylinder pipe decides he's too rusty too that it's a Pain the the ARSE to get a new pipe made up yet again!
Brake spanners = God Send
And when reassemebling the Rear Shoes and springs - Connect one spring to its hole, point the screwdriver to the hole it Should go - hook the spring on (half way up its shaft) Pull the spring and it SHOULD, but becareful it might not - slide down and go straight into it's little hole
Springs are buggers - take care with bodywork - your teeth (i smacked my gob really hard and 1 tooth with a set of Mole grips (solid as well) When it lost grip pulling a spring
And Another little tip, hook the bottom of the Shoes OVER the point they like to sit, as it makes it easier to leaver them back over into place with a Big screwdriver again
Okay enough rambles
Ziggy
A Decent STRONG screwdriver is your friend when it comes to the drums
The springs used are strong, and can be tricky to force back into place
Sometimes they refuse to come out
For Rear Drums
A 12mm deep socket or spanner for the Tyre Guides
A Set of Stands - jacks for support are a no no
NEVER USE JUST A JACK! USE AXLE STANDS
A Set of Plumers pliers / mole Grips / Chunky pliers
a Decent Thick Shafted posi or flat screwdriver
A Hammer comes handy
TIME
If you know what your doing putting them together is easy
First time expect a few hours per side
As for the Rear Cylinders, take care! be prepared that the Brake pipe MIGHT have corroded with the connector that screws into the Cylinder
When Removing the rear cyclinder i'd be taking care that the Pipe ISN'T twisting with the connector
if it is - prepare for a New Brake Pipe - You might as well replace the flexi too (only £10 and often get overlooked)
just becareful again if the master cyclinder to the slave cylinder pipe decides he's too rusty too that it's a Pain the the ARSE to get a new pipe made up yet again!
Brake spanners = God Send
And when reassemebling the Rear Shoes and springs - Connect one spring to its hole, point the screwdriver to the hole it Should go - hook the spring on (half way up its shaft) Pull the spring and it SHOULD, but becareful it might not - slide down and go straight into it's little hole
Springs are buggers - take care with bodywork - your teeth (i smacked my gob really hard and 1 tooth with a set of Mole grips (solid as well) When it lost grip pulling a spring
And Another little tip, hook the bottom of the Shoes OVER the point they like to sit, as it makes it easier to leaver them back over into place with a Big screwdriver again
Okay enough rambles
Ziggy
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died cuz of bad jack, he was probably rocking car on unlevel ground and it fell
The inquest into the death of Zygimantas Grabys (31) heard he usually put a tyre underneath the car as well as the jack, but on this occasion he did not.
i wonder if steel wheel would stop front/rear of the car dropping down
Jack bad or good is neither here nor there. There was no plan B. A steel wheel may have reduced the fall somewhat but unlikely to prevent injury. Rotating a wheel when I want extra extra support I will use and old Disco steely with about six inches of solid beech on top of it, lowering the jack until the load is shared. No substitute for proper stands/ramps and always have a plan B and C..........and and ..........
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looks like one man has to die, for others to learn from his mistakes
its not one man i have heard this before years ago, I had my spitfire car up on 4 scissor jacks when i was a boy, i got trapped between car and wall when it fell off and had to shout for help
If it were only one that would be bad enough but this is a common event. Scissors jacks are lethal even changing wheels, all the more so these days with alloys that often need hammering to get them free of hubs.
They should never be used alone or preferably not at all for work under the car. A strong gust of wind will blow the car off balance. I strongly suggest using the spare under the car until the flat wheel is free and then swapping them quickly before mounting the spare and make sure the handbarake is applied and the car in gear and use a rock or anything to hand to chock the car as well. My first car came with a folding chock in the tool kit back in 1982.
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its not one man i have heard this before years ago, I had my spitfire car up on 4 scissor jacks when i was a boy, i got trapped between car and wall when it fell off and had to shout for help
uf, you are lucky to be alive uncle dave
