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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Rear Drum strip and clean......<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Rear Drum strip and clean......
Simple job with the right tools
Published by Andy Monty
25-04-2010
Difficulty Level: 1

User Rated:
Difficulty Level: 2

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Rear Drum strip and clean......

Working on your car brakes need's a lot of care if you are not 100% confident you can get the job right seek the help of a mechanic....


kit needed in addition to chocks and jack and stands.....
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brake cleaner,
coper grease
hammer
BIG flat screw driver/ pry bar
pliers
wheel brace/ torque wrench (steel rims 105nm)
smaller slotted screwdriver
T30 torx driver (i used impact driver as mine were seized)
some rag

M10 x 3" or so bolts and spanner to suit...




First Chock the other wheels leave the car in gear but release handbrake fully and slacken wheel nuts...

raise the car safely and axle stand the side you are working on and remove wheel

now you are faced with the Drum/hub...

get your 30T Torx driver and remove the 2x torx screws.....
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now with them both removed you need to pry the drum off evenly (a tap with a hammer round the edge can help)

AT this point you can go one of 2 ways..... my prefered method is to use 2 bolts in the threaded holes of the drum and wind the drum off occasionally tapping the drum to free the shoes off so the drum slips past them...




work the bolts alternately to keep the drum square to the hub stub watch for the wheel bearing rotating as you do this.. if you have this problem slide a screw driver into one of the wheel bolt holes to stop it rotating...

Or pry off using large flat screwdriver/ claw hammer slowly and evenly all the way round......
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now you have the drum off (the hard part)

make a mental note of the internals

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now remove the lower spring with pliers/ small flat screw driver
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make a note of how the self adjuster is sat in the shoes

Then remove upper spring....
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screw the end of the auto self adjuster clockwise several turns
(more on this later)

the pic below shows the left fork 180 degrees out of the seated position...

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now remove 2x pad retainer clips

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take care not to loose the pins from the back of the drum
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pull shoes off pin

note Handbrake connections/linkages...
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Now clean all surfaces with brake cleaner and rag....


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now use copper grease on contact points...

Refit shoes ensuring they sit in the lower retainer and uppers sit against the Slave cylinder shafts...
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next re fit the auto adjuster and the lower spring.......


at this point push the uppers together so the shoes push the self adjuster tight and try to fit drum back on

if its a tight fit remove adjuster and wind in. if very slack wind adjuster out so shoes just catch drum when re fitting....

now re fit upper spring...

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then drum and torx screws

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now to re adjust the shoes

climb into car carefully so as not to upset it on the jack

pump brakes slowly and listen for the clicks of the auto adjuster might take 50 or so pumps once it stops clicking it should be fully adjusted.....

then check handbrake operation and foot brake with a friend spinning hub


re fit wheel and torque up wheel nuts
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Old 25-05-2014   #1
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

I know this is an old thread but thanks for this - just done mine and adjusted the handbrake too. Simple when you know how!
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Old 18-12-2018   #2
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Anyone know the thread size, thread pitch and thread length of the countersunk head T30 drum retaining screws, please? Intend to buy A2 stainless replacements on ebay for mine which have siezed rather than pay stealer prices for plain steel which will rust and sieze up again.
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Old 18-12-2018   #3
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Quote Originally Posted by GaryBaldy View Post
Anyone know the thread size, thread pitch and thread length of the countersunk head T30 drum retaining screws, please? Intend to buy A2 stainless replacements on ebay for mine which have siezed rather than pay stealer prices for plain steel which will rust and sieze up again.
Not done mine yet..

I am let do believe the 'jacking threads in the drum are M8..

Logic dictates the securing screws will be M6.. length.. not sure
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Old 18-12-2018   #4
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Thumbs up Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Normal/standard/basic pitch M6, about 14-15 mm long.
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Drum holes are M10 (also "normal pitch" = that means you don't care what the number is, just get "M10" bolt).
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How self-adjuster works:
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Last edited by GrandePunto PL; 18-12-2018 at 15:00. Reason: YouTube video.
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Old 18-12-2018   #5
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

So the M8 bolts I Sourced for this job are of no use..

Typical... not had many simple jobs on this old mj.
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Old 18-12-2018   #6
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Many thanks for your help. As can be seen from reply by "Grande Punto" the retaining screws are M6 about 14 - 15mm long. I assume pitch will be 1mm. I will probably buy M6 X 16mm and grind down to suit if there is interference inside of drum which can be readily ascertained. Best Rgds., GaryBaldy
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Old 18-12-2018   #7
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Many thanks for your help. I assume pitch will be 1mm. I will probably buy M6 X 16mm and grind down to suit if there is interference inside of drum which can be readily ascertained. The demonstration in the shoe adjustment video is also enlightening. I can see that the mechanism is fragile and overly complicated and in true Fiat fashion will be prone to rust and siezing. Best Rgds., GaryBaldy
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Old 04-01-2019   #8
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Hope this is of some help to others. Bought 10 off stainless A2 socket cap screws M6 X 16mm with 4mm allen key socket from gwr-fasteners on ebay item # 282818754255 price 1.35 delivered UK. Checked that there was no interference due to thread length and there was no need to grind down.Looking for surplus new shoes in Stockport area for 228mm drums X 42mm shoe width. Mintex 564 or equivalent. For some reason one nsr shoe lining has worn down to 2mm at bottom position prematurely at 50K - possibly lazy piston (not detected in MOT brake test) or sticking shoe on backplate. Problem will be diagnosed and remedied as soon as new shoes have been sourced. Best price on shoes so far for Mintex 16.15 delivered. Thanks again for all the properly detailed help which makes life so much easier.
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Old 04-01-2019   #9
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Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
So the M8 bolts I Sourced for this job are of no use..

Typical... not had many simple jobs on this old mj.

M10 bolts worked well

Thankfully components seem fine for another 6 months.
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Old 07-03-2019   #10
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Can't you just release the adjuster from the holes with as flat screwdriver?
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Old 08-03-2019   #11
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Post Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

There is no simple "release" (you must "rewind" it back). If you try poking it with screwdriver, you're risking damage (leaf spring is fragile). It can be done, but it's risky (not advisable to complete beginners)

For example, Punto 1 had very different style self-adjusters (and there was an easy way to release them, through wheel bolt hole in the drum, poke it in the right spot and that's it - but not here in Grande).
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Last edited by GrandePunto PL; 08-03-2019 at 08:00. Reason: Self-adjuster "releasing" warning.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #12
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Exclamation Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Next set of random tips (about adjusters and so on).

So, you get the idea (example, staged picture, without drum - with drum it's even worst). Don't mess with self-adjusters. Easy to damage (and you will not release much).
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Cleaning the drums, shoes etc. Good to have a compressor (and not flood everything with chemicals, brake cleaner - may not be compatible with rubber parts). Animated GIF (click it if not playing, static).
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Drums sizes, wear, etc. Info from "eLearn".
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If you experience problems like uneven braking force ("power"), when taking "MOT" for example, check all components. Starting with springs, retainers, and so on. Replacement parts, assembly/accessory kits, are not exactly like original ones. In this example shoe retainers are too strong, too tight. Shoes have hard time retracting back (therefore self-adjuster may fail to do it's job). Also, when you have a hard time installing it, switch back to old parts. New part is not automatically better. Not always.
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Other springs can be different too. Is this a problem? Maybe... May be not...
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Pins will differ too. But it is not so critical element (unlike springs).
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While disassembling shoes, watch out. Pistons may jump out of the cylinder (internal spring). It's a good sign (means, they are not seized). There is a springy tool for that, look at example document by Bosch (step 6).
Link: https://aa-boschap-tw.resource.bosch...ter_o92_de.pdf
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Inspect cylinders for leaks. Must be dry under the boot.
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Back to springs. There are also different types/styles (equal number of turns, or not). Don't know why.
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Attention to details. Springs have (probably) correct and incorrect way to install, orientation. "Last turn" (marked in red) can potentially rub against the self-adjuster body.
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Look at complete rear brakes assemblies available on the market. How it's put together.
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Lubrication spots (10, five visible, five not due to picture angle, perspective - but you get the idea).
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Most important thing. Self-adjusters. "Test" them like that (although it's not proper test). Animation (GIF).
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Critical part is a bi-metal strip. In some of them it's marked "KANTHAL" (so strip is made from kanthal + other metal).
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Example book, pages 58-59: https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=...page&q&f=false

It's there to prevent excessive adjusting while drums getting hot (and expanding, diameter grows). Otherwise there would be excessive wear and/or brakes seizing after cooling down. To test it, use a heat gun (ideally adjustable one, not much heat needed). Or boil in the water (like thermostat testing).
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When it bends hot, it should catch a "hook" part and stop adjusting. Later it should "reset" itself when cold at first movement (stroke) of the shoes. Animation, GIF.
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Cleaning self adjuster with solvents is not enough. There is a lot of dirt collecting between the teeth. Scrape it with a razor blade, knife or something. Grease should be only inside the body on the threads.
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Watch out for cheap replacement parts. Counterfeits. They are only faking the look of the part (not functions). For example, there is no bi-metallic strip (it's a regular steel).
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Comparison. Old original and fake. Try to salvage old original parts. Strip movement is not smooth here, something is blocking it (dirt, something is bent etc.). Animated GIF (real-time movement).
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Cold bimetal must be straight and pushing slightly towards the adjuster, fork. Check if it's bent (it is on the picture - out of focus), twisted etc. Be careful while installing everything back, shoes, shoe springs, do not disturb adjuster (strip, leaf spring).
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Counterfeits have very different springs (stronger or weaker - lottery). And stroke required to get adjusting action may differ. In this example it was twice as much (cheap replacement must be spread/compressed at longer distance in order to work). GIF animation.
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Some manuals show different type of adjuster. For example "eLearn". If you have one like that, be careful too. Fakes are also on the market (sometimes without bimetal strip at all).
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Final test of the adjuster must be done on the car (not in your hands - it proves almost nothing). Make a SST (special service tool), from old drum (cut a big inspection hole/window) or fabricate big retainer (like a giant hose clamp).
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Good idea, bad execution (it doesn't fit nicely all around). But it was good enough.
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Self-adjuster is really "self" adjusting (for now). To prove it, you must see it. Clicking sound is not enough sometimes (springy blade can slip/skip the tooth - so you can pump the brakes forever). Animated GIF.
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While you are there, inspect other things, like handbrake linkages. Malfunction of the handbrake can affect the main brakes (hydraulic). Rear can also spoil the front brakes and other way round.
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Change the brake fluid every 2-3 years. Important.
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If old fluid is not dark it may still be bad. For example water content. When two fluids mix at different water contents, you get such visual effects (for example while bleeding or topping up the reservoir). Watch out when buying brand new fluid, container may be leaky = contaminated (moisture). Animation.
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Last edited by GrandePunto PL; 2 Weeks Ago at 20:44. Reason: Important technical details.
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Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

Compressor .. instead of a spray?

The risk is inhaling the brake dust..
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #14
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Cool Re: Rear Drum strip and clean......

If you are about to change the brake fluid, use some penetrant days (not seconds or minutes - it only makes a mess) before the job (a few drops everyday). Renew the fluid, bleed the system.
And last step: flush remaining fluid from the bleeder valve, nipple. It will be easier to undo next time.
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If the bleed nipples are rusted, hard to undo (and cannot seal properly after the job), install new ones. Thread size should be M7 (normal pitch, 1 mm), total length about 26 mm (you can buy next size longer, up to 30-31 mm, no problem), 7 mm hex. Part that goes inside must be minimum 14 mm.
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Front caliper brake bleeders are similar in length (26 or 27-ish mm), but M8x1,25 and 8 mm hex.
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Last edited by GrandePunto PL; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:38. Reason: Editing.
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