General 10.5 litres/100 km fuel consumption ok ?
- Thread starter Chali
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General 10.5 litres/100 km fuel consumption ok ?
Except the notch cam sprocket lines up with is in the alloy of the head
still looks right to me.
don't forget the photo is slightly above centre
If i do this , then the flywheel does not remain at zero
You don't have to keep the marks aligned while tensioning the belt just rotate crank twice after tensioning and make sure marks line up again.
do you have the White lines on the belt ?
Thanks alot, i followed your instructions and was successful !
But the problem of excessive fuel consumption remains same ! What to do next ?
Sorry, I don't agree with this statement.
When I changed my cambelt recently the crank was 15deg behind the cam due to this kind of false statement, the crank and cam MUST be locked in position when tightening the tensioner pully or the valves will open out of phase which means losing compression on the compression and power stroke early. potentially burning valves etc as well.
By the way now my crank to cam timing is spot on , the engine is running the smoothest it has ever since I have owned it.
I think we are agreeing.
The op was worried that when he was tensioning the belt the crank or cam or both were moving a tiny tiny bit. That's why I posted as long as the marks line up after tension set and after engine rotated two revs then it's good.
The non vvt engine has no provision for locking tools to be fitted.
The cam sprocket is keyed to cam shaft.
Jack
Did you check that the cam sprocket is bolted to the cam shaft in the correct position, there should be a slot in the camshaft that a bump (key) part of cam sprocket goes into before the bolt is tightened. Sometimes the bump on cam sprocket is broken off the cam sprocket, then although the sprocket alignment mark is correct with new belt the cam shaft is not in the correct alignment.
I think you will find it has,
Or how did I set my engine up?
you have to remove the cam cover and insert a bar with an angle plate into the slot on the camshaft by cylinder 4, the crank is locked with a tennis racket shaped plate that bolts to the crank pully and held at the lower cover securing bolt.
cam and crank are locked , you only then need to worry about ensuring the cambelt from cam to waterpump and crank is tight before tensioning on the 'lose' side.
by tensioning without the locks in place you risk crank and cam timing from going 'out of phase' I have seen this on a MC with devastating results due to the interference aspect of that particular engine.
As the OP is still suffering the fuel issue, what is the harm in doing the job correctly?
Or how did I set my engine up?
you have to remove the cam cover and insert a bar with an angle plate into the slot on the camshaft by cylinder 4, the crank is locked with a tennis racket shaped plate that bolts to the crank pully and held at the lower cover securing bolt.
cam and crank are locked , you only then need to worry about ensuring the cambelt from cam to waterpump and crank is tight before tensioning on the 'lose' side.
by tensioning without the locks in place you risk crank and cam timing from going 'out of phase' I have seen this on a MC with devastating results due to the interference aspect of that particular engine.
As the OP is still suffering the fuel issue, what is the harm in doing the job correctly?
Oooòoo shoot but thank you for reminder.
the change date from fixed to freewheeling cam sprockets slipped my mind during the course of this thread. I knew I was asking for pictured of cam lobes for a reason! That request was just ignored.
Is your engine the later version with freewheeling cam sprocket?
If yes please say if it looks identical to the ops photo of his sprocket.
Certainly if it is the later engine with freewheel sprocket locking tools should be used and the belt changed when all pistons half way on their strokes.
Totally different to method for keyed sprockets which has belt change at tdc.
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DO NOT LOOK FOR KEY ON CAMSHAFT SPROCKET YET.
there was a change of design of sprocket and I don't know if your sprocket should have a key or not.
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Pugglt Auld Jock
Get Your Own Title
19-10-2018
Earlier this year I did the timing belts on both our 2010 1.2 Panda and my boy's 1.4 8valve Punto. The Punto has the same "variator" hydraulic sprocket which you show in your second picture and the Panda, with it's Euro4 Evo 2 engine, has a solid sprocket as shown in your first picture. Both engines have "free" sprockets. That is to say they do not have keyways so if you slacken the sprocket retaining bolt the sprocket can spin freely on it's shaft and there's no way back without timing tools! I think the 2010 1.2 euro4 Evo2 engine was the last to use a solid*cam*sprocket (and, maybe, the first with the "free" sprocket?) which could explain why your 2011 has the variator type pulley (euro 5?)
I have shamelessly copied that very useful info from Jock
Pugglt Auld Jock
Get Your Own Title
19-10-2018
Earlier this year I did the timing belts on both our 2010 1.2 Panda and my boy's 1.4 8valve Punto. The Punto has the same "variator" hydraulic sprocket which you show in your second picture and the Panda, with it's Euro4 Evo 2 engine, has a solid sprocket as shown in your first picture. Both engines have "free" sprockets. That is to say they do not have keyways so if you slacken the sprocket retaining bolt the sprocket can spin freely on it's shaft and there's no way back without timing tools! I think the 2010 1.2 euro4 Evo2 engine was the last to use a solid*cam*sprocket (and, maybe, the first with the "free" sprocket?) which could explain why your 2011 has the variator type pulley (euro 5?)
I have shamelessly copied that very useful info from Jock
