Technical Fuel pump 1.1

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Technical Fuel pump 1.1

Well I'm definitely no expert then since I thought they were OK! I'll get some new ones tomorrow.

I haven't measured the gap but will just change them anyway.
 
Thanks for the nice clear photos

I zoomed in at 3X their normal size and measured the gap to be 4mm

4/3 = 1.33mm gap

I see they are Bosch they will have started with a smaller gap at .7mm

Screenshot_20231217_161328.jpg

So it's nearly double what it started with

Cylinders 2 and 3 look fine


Cylinders 1 and 4 don't look like they are always firing, the last thread is covered in carbon, the insulator tip is darker and the side electrode is missing normal patch which shows they are at the correct temperature range circled here

IMG_20231217_162239.jpg


What you don't want to see a problem in adjacent cylinders especially 1 and 2

It's likely the coils that deals with 1 and 4 is struggling, fingers crossed it's just the plugs.
 
Plug gap IS huge. It should be something like 0.8 mm from memnory. New plugs are all supposed to be preset Haynes doesnt tell you. They dont need much tighteming either 18lb/ft. Take car to strat them by hand and not to cross thread them. I now use 3 in 1 on the threads.
 
Gap depends on which plugs is fitted

NKG 1mm latter engine
Denso equivalent 0.8mm
Bosch equivalent 0.7mm

The newer NGK normally start to fail at 1.8 and the older ones at 1.7mm

I no idea when the Denso or Bosch start to fail
 
Good news, I changed the plugs for some Denso ones and all seems well. Feels a lot more responsive now, well as responsive as a 1.1 can be 🙈

Thanks again for everyone's help. Brake pads need changing next so if someone has a link to a guide or YouTube video it would be appreciated.

Andrew
 
Cool well done in fixing it

The feedback has also added to the forums knowledge

We now know the Bosch plugs start failing at a much smaller gap

Onto brakes

Just pads

Or pads and discs minimum thickness is 9.2mm

Before starting and ripping the old pads out it's a good idea to pop the wheels off and assess the state of the pads and discs first


Are all 4 pads worn down the same, the don't have to be perfect but both sides should be roughly the same

Is it the wearing evenly across the disc, outer edge to middle, both sides


Recommending a video isn't that easy, half of them are just plain wrong or misleading

For example, slathering copper grease on the back of the pads, most pads in the last 10 years come ready coated, it will not melt or pick up dirt and transfer it onto the piston and it's seals

Watch out for part numbers there are several different pads and disc combinations used on the Panda

I used drivetech from GSF last time, price was around £20 for a pair of discs


@varesecrazy I beleive has done a guide, I think, not sure if it's in the 500 or punto section


If the sliders, side and the rubber is in good condition there's no point in touching them



Whether you grease the ears on the pads is up to you, but regardless they should not be tight in the carrier



Here's Fiats take on it

 
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Mines just a clip you pull with pliers and a pin you tap out

Just looked at the Haynes video for the punto and 500, there slightly different

What is strange the 500 they leave dry and the punto they grease the ears

Both the same brakes with shims in the carrier which most Pandas don't have as the shim is built into the caliper

But looking at their video did open a whole new can worms of jacking the car,

Haynes is not the way I would do it, Especially as the car gets older, Autodocs video is done on a lift

Finding a decent video is not easy, to do properly, assuming there's no problems it really is less than 5 minutes a side, once the cars jaked and the wheels off
 
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Thanks everyone. I will have a look at what you have all sent and hopefully get them done over the holidays.
 
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