i messed around with this a while ago ^ does work, rear wipers are naff anyway 
Tuning turbo time!
- Thread starter craigb244
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Tuning turbo time!
Boot mounted water tank that is what i am currently doing to my MX-5 but for water injection
that is what i am currently doing to my MX-5 but for water injection
Your time would be better employed to stop messing about with ideas of fans and water spray on intercooler, and move the air filter out of the hot engine bay and give the cooler an advantage in cooling the charge if its from a colder source.
Run pipes straight from turbo along front of car and then one 90ish degree bend so filter sits up high in side passenger side wing behind the liner as per where the charcoal can sits on Seicento's, loads of space up there, & lots of cold air and away from water.
This is how it is on Martins car and it helps keep temps down loads when on the road which you don't see on a r/r as the bonnet is up so the heat doesn't build up under it.
Run pipes straight from turbo along front of car and then one 90ish degree bend so filter sits up high in side passenger side wing behind the liner as per where the charcoal can sits on Seicento's, loads of space up there, & lots of cold air and away from water.
This is how it is on Martins car and it helps keep temps down loads when on the road which you don't see on a r/r as the bonnet is up so the heat doesn't build up under it.
OP
OP
funny you mention that... i already did the same kinda thing yesterday. i noticed a little drop in temps but the heat would still raise when not moving because the intercooler heat soaks.
I moved it there so i had neater wiring and a place for the horn and other bits. need to fit my wheel arch liners asap now tho
edit*
got a strange sound coming from the engine. i never noticed it when i ran the engine in the original car (but then i never really got it up to temp) anyway once its hot it has a random dull knocky stony kinda sound... its not constant and is mechanical. i tried to source it with a screwdriver. its not the big ends or anything at the bottom. its not piston slap. it seems to be coming from the coil pack side of the head.
I took the cam cover off and removed the cam and all the cam journals are fine and cant see anywhere that shows anything hitting or rubbing.
gave each valve a shove and they all feel the same.
its only at idle as soon as you rev it or drive it goes away.
I moved it there so i had neater wiring and a place for the horn and other bits. need to fit my wheel arch liners asap now tho
edit*
got a strange sound coming from the engine. i never noticed it when i ran the engine in the original car (but then i never really got it up to temp) anyway once its hot it has a random dull knocky stony kinda sound... its not constant and is mechanical. i tried to source it with a screwdriver. its not the big ends or anything at the bottom. its not piston slap. it seems to be coming from the coil pack side of the head.
I took the cam cover off and removed the cam and all the cam journals are fine and cant see anywhere that shows anything hitting or rubbing.
gave each valve a shove and they all feel the same.
its only at idle as soon as you rev it or drive it goes away.
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did you check valve clearance??
OP
OP
that did come to me actually but i had already put the cover back on.
will check tomorrow. i can see that the valves have been reshimmed (i was told this) so it could be that someone did it wrong.
BUT this is more of a deep "clunk" then a valve which usually make a constant tick
will check tomorrow. i can see that the valves have been reshimmed (i was told this) so it could be that someone did it wrong.
BUT this is more of a deep "clunk" then a valve which usually make a constant tick
knock/detonation??
I hope not. You got the low comp pistons in there ain't you.
I hope not. You got the low comp pistons in there ain't you.
isn't piston number 4 known to run to a bit hotter on these engines, so if it was a knock issue it'd presen there first due to the higher temps. just retard the timing, see if the noise goes away.
OP
OP
ill try it tomorrow but i highly doubt it. all the plugs look good
actualy it does sound a bit like a diesel idle knock... humm
actualy it does sound a bit like a diesel idle knock... humm
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could be 2 things....
check the **** plate in the cam cover aint hitting the cam (i had this happen on my enigne before)
or if it does it when acelerating or decelerating its deffently knock, mine done it got worse and worse till it blew up
check the **** plate in the cam cover aint hitting the cam (i had this happen on my enigne before)
or if it does it when acelerating or decelerating its deffently knock, mine done it got worse and worse till it blew up
1st the filter in that position is too low in is at risk of sucking in water
2nd that is where your oil cooler should be
Have you retarded the ignition to see if you still have the noise if it goes awayi t could be knock but at the CR you are at i doubt it will be unless you have totally screwed up the fuelling, also for a petrol engine you are looking to hear knock at ~7KHz wich is why quite often it is refered to as pinking or ping
but the golden rule with any FI engine if you have any doubt wind back the the boost
That is close but that is how things are on VAD setups, it is the only way to fit 3 ratiatiors in the front of a cinq and supply them with cold air
2nd that is where your oil cooler should be
Have you retarded the ignition to see if you still have the noise if it goes awayi t could be knock but at the CR you are at i doubt it will be unless you have totally screwed up the fuelling, also for a petrol engine you are looking to hear knock at ~7KHz wich is why quite often it is refered to as pinking or ping
but the golden rule with any FI engine if you have any doubt wind back the the boost
That is close but that is how things are on VAD setups, it is the only way to fit 3 ratiatiors in the front of a cinq and supply them with cold air
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its scary how untidy my work has been
can see how much had to be cut off to fit the bigger radiator(prob not needed)
yes im still missing the oil cooler but that has a fan so dont need to be up front,dont know where yet
there is always room for improvment though
would you say the boost was more controlable with ths smaller T/B?
when did you start getting the knocking/ping and with which throttle body?
cos if you mapped it with a smaller T/B and fitted a larger one without re doing the load maps im not totally sure but that could play a part IF the engine is pinking?, more air passing at a given mapped load site with the larger T/B
OP
OP
checked that... looked like is was at first (been removed as some point and had hit but i bent in where there was a shiny bit (first lobe on the first pot) and no effect
like i said it stops even if slighly higher rpms. its anything under 1000rpm
nope... its tight but thats how they all seem to be.
I dont plan to drive thru any brooks soo should be fine1st the filter in that position is too low in is at risk of sucking in water
2nd that is where your oil cooler should be
Have you retarded the ignition to see if you still have the noise if it goes awayi t could be knock but at the CR you are at i doubt it will be unless you have totally screwed up the fuelling, also for a petrol engine you are looking to hear knock at ~7KHz wich is why quite often it is refered to as pinking or ping
but the golden rule with any FI engine if you have any doubt wind back the the boost
That is close but that is how things are on VAD setups, it is the only way to fit 3 ratiatiors in the front of a cinq and supply them with cold air
will move it when i get the chance. it was kinda a bodge using a piece of the old 2inch exhaust pipe. but yeh thats where the oil cooler will live so its gotta move at some point I will knock back the timing at idle tomorrow and see if it does anything. its a very distinctive noise and will know instantly if it goes. ive gotten no knock at all while under boost but im playing it on the safe side (rich)
i could have gone from a 2mm tb to a meter wide tb... wont do anything at idle. the engine has done it since i fitted it (and could of before for all i know)
Also as far as i can tell fitting other size tb wont need a map rebuild as megasquirt(and even the original ecu) use manifold air pressure/rpm/intake air temp to figure out the amount of air... this wont change.
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What timing you running at idle? Is it verified with a strobe, timing marks, and checked by piston height with a dial gauge?
The filter that low is a killer, i ran a feed that lo, and nearly killed my engine when it rained heavy once.
Is it def from the eninge? or could it be the input shaft to the box?
Kristian
The filter that low is a killer, i ran a feed that lo, and nearly killed my engine when it rained heavy once.
Is it def from the eninge? or could it be the input shaft to the box?
Kristian
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OP
OP
moved the timing loads... sound never changed so its not knock.
not the box. it does make a rattle but that stops when you press the clutch in or the car is in gear.
Took the car for a hard drive today and it runs great. i turned the idle up to about 950-1000rpm and the sound is gone.
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probs just labouring the big ends from low rpm. 1000-1200rpm is fine for mot.
Enjoy :slayer:
Enjoy
:slayer:
OP
OP
erm definatly top end noise tho. the shells are brand new and the screw driver to ear test showed the bottom end of the engine to sound as smooth as clockwork
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fair enough. Importnat thing is the noise has gone
