Tuning turbo time!

[craigb244]

its oil hose made by aeroquip. its a strange stuff and you dont need to use hose clips with it.

the wall thickness is pretty thin and you can make really tight bends in it (much tighter then braided hose)

was recommended it by the hose place. they said braided hose is not that great on road cars (heat cycling/vibration/road crap) its not cheap tho... just a little cheaper then braided.

 

[craigb244]

Loved the heat exchanger system in my 106 rallye didnt really notice it taking longer to heat up tho but a definate must have system tbh . progress looks good as always matey

how was it set up on that car?

I know the t-jet has one but its fed by an extra hose coming from the thermostat so wont effect heaters.

ive just tried to keep it simple.

 

[craigb244]

no photos today as there is not much to take photos of...

bolted down the cam box and fitted the belt and did the cam timing.

sealed and bolted the exhaust manifold on.

fitted coolant gauge sender and coolant temp sensor

fitted the oil pressure switch 90degree cento thing.

fitted turbo oil feed and drain.

 

[craigk]

great to see its all coming together for you

oh and this guy seems to have a quickshift like yours

 

[craigk]

you have to love the person in the pasanger seat grabing onto the seat at 00:12

 

[craigb244]

cool video.

yeah they have just moved the gear stick linkages inside using the standard housing (the ugly way )

I made my own housing

 

[craigk]

would you reckon they would have much of an advantage??

i thing a quickshift guide is in order

 

[craigb244]

the stick feels MUCH more positive.

 

[craigb244]

wiring fun

I've stripped lots of old unused wires but wondered about all the earths behind the drivers headlight. the cinq has about 8of the feckers going all the way across the car.

thinking of moving them to the passenger side and bolting it to the engine earth point.

ill then swap the gearbox earth cable to the drivers side which to me would make more sense.

 

[craigb244]

right. that's another day gone. did a lot of wiring but it don't look like much!

moved all the earths to the passenger side and the main engine earth now lives on the drivers side. (original cable fitted perfectly from the earth point on drivers side to the knock sensor hole on the back of the block)

all the passenger side lighting is working along with the horn, brake fluid warning and reverse switch.

most of the original wiring was black inside so ended up cutting it all back till it was clean and using new wire.

ALSO I remembered I bought a new cam belt tensioner. I then found out you can't remove it with the engine in.
so I dropped the front engine mounts but due to the stiff mounts I had to drop the whole engine.

in the process I managed to put a large dent in the sump (it was getting dark and I was getting tired and nothing was going well so started making stupid mistakes)
so tomorrow the sump is coming off to pop the dent out.

 

[craigb244]

finished the headlight wiring. cleaned the alternator/starter wiring.

fixed sump.
redid the timing.
tightened the cam box bolts and fitted caps.
fitted HT leads.
placed engine sensor wires ready to sort out tomorrow.

ordering boost hoses and such tomorrow. already got a list over £100... bloody expensive things

 

[ycming]

Ermmm ... i change the tensioners on my cinq without dropping engine?

Have you also move the fuel filter to inside the engine bay ?

Thanks
ming

 

[woj]

Ermmm ... i change the tensioners on my cinq without dropping engine?

With a 16V lump inside?

@Craig, what is the blue hose connection on the driver side of the inlet mani for?

 

[craigb244]

not unless your engine is shifted over about 2 inches!

the only way i could see it been removable is if it was like the 8v tensioner with the middle bit removable.

yeh the fuel filter is inside the engine bay.

Wog, The blue hose connection is for the idle control/antilag valve

 

[ycming]

With a 16V lump inside?

@Craig, what is the blue hose connection on the driver side of the inlet mani for?

Yes on the 16v, seriously ..... i'll done it several times now ... i'll get a pic

Mk1 sporting lump right?

 

[craigb244]

yeah get a photo.
mine is the latest 16v engine but on my mates mk1 16v is was the same (on hes I only had to drop the drivers engine mount because he has standard mounts.)

 

[ycming]

All my mount is standard? Apart from being grinded down a little!.

There are no spacers either on the driver mount.

 

[craigb244]

you do have a stud holding the tensioner on?

 

[craigb244]

Engine bay wiring is pretty much sorted.

all wires not used have been pulled inside the car and removed... surprising amounts of wiring is left unused once from the original ecu!

anyway the engine sensors/coils/injectors have been ran through braided sleeve, heat wrapped and put into a single bundle.(looked tidy in person but messy in the photos.... I dont think the engine bay will ever look very tidy because of all the pipework and stuff shoehorned in


all thats left to do now is braid the bundle and route it into the car and then do all the ecu connections.

....oh and I also sikaflexed thick rubber matt inside the car to fill the great big holes left from fitting the shifter. im going to glue another on the outside to make sure its 100% sealed.

 

[craigb244]

wehey... hoses/stainless T clamps (twice the cost of jubile clips but "look" million times better on boost pipes)

also ordered a set of T-jet spark plugs... not yet sure if they will fit (cant see why not) but they are iridium and one grade cooler... if fiat fitted them to the t-jet as standard they must have a very good reason to spend over 5X the amount on them!


...Back to wiring!