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i changed the tensioner on the car, its on a stud with a nut holding it on, just drop the engine on the drivers mount and it will..... just.... allow you to get it off, although may scratch your head 
Tuning turbo time!
- Thread starter craigb244
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Tuning turbo time!
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yep (altho my engine mounts dont have any play so had to drop the whole engine!) so dont know how ming can do it without moving the engine at all. unless he has replaced the stud with a bolt
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wiring 90% done. just need to fit the injector/coil power feed into the fuse box and tuck all the wires away behind the dash.
did a quick output test and all injectors work perfectly on there own channels.
coils pumped out nice big sparks.
turned the engine over and got a very nice crank reading (hall effect sensor) but the ecu would not sync... turned out I forgot to install a pull up resistor on the cam sensor input. fixed that and it synced up great.
Just got my t-jet spark plugs (they are the same same size as the 16v plugs) so tomorrow I can fit them and start it up for a few seconds.
did a quick output test and all injectors work perfectly on there own channels.
coils pumped out nice big sparks.
turned the engine over and got a very nice crank reading (hall effect sensor) but the ecu would not sync... turned out I forgot to install a pull up resistor on the cam sensor input. fixed that and it synced up great.
Just got my t-jet spark plugs (they are the same same size as the 16v plugs
) so tomorrow I can fit them and start it up for a few seconds.
Would like to see a video of the first start
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you will get one even if its a "pop-pop-pop-pop" as each piston fails... :-/
even if its a "pop-pop-pop-pop" as each piston fails... :-/
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here we go running rich and enrichments disabled so not very responsive.
sounds really nice. induction sound is much louder then with the standard plastic manifold and exhaust note has changed a lot.
running rich and enrichments disabled so not very responsive.sounds really nice. induction sound is much louder then with the standard plastic manifold and exhaust note has changed a lot.
Be a bit careful of those T Jet plugs. Yours is not a T Jet engine, by any stretch of the imagination.
As I said elsewhere, find the recommended plug for the original engine in NGK fitting. Simply add 2 or 3 to the number, and start there. You want/need the coldest plug that will allow reasonable stop/start running.
NGK because they're probably the most reliable plugs out there and have easy to understand heat ranges -- the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Run with too hot a plug and you may well not get a second chance.
As I said elsewhere, find the recommended plug for the original engine in NGK fitting. Simply add 2 or 3 to the number, and start there. You want/need the coldest plug that will allow reasonable stop/start running.
NGK because they're probably the most reliable plugs out there and have easy to understand heat ranges -- the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Run with too hot a plug and you may well not get a second chance.
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i ran the standard plugs in my 8v (i recon everyone does) and i bet all the polish/french 1.2 16v run standard heat range plugs without problems
the T-jet plugs are simply a grade cooler and from what ive been reading... one grade is a lot so id say they will be fine.
I doubt i even needed to get the t-jet plugs but as they are available i got them
Ive never compared my engine to a t-jet
the T-jet plugs are simply a grade cooler and from what ive been reading... one grade is a lot so id say they will be fine.
I doubt i even needed to get the t-jet plugs but as they are available i got them
Ive never compared my engine to a t-jet
Nor did I. You might as well have pulled a plug from an Integrale, then!
Turbo cars will require cooler plugs (especially when you think of the size of the turbo on yours). Somehere here there's a picture of what a tub will do to plugs which are not cool enough.
If you don't believe me, talk to Dave Walker, read the Bell book...............
Holy pistons, batman!
Turbo cars will require cooler plugs (especially when you think of the size of the turbo on yours). Somehere here there's a picture of what a tub will do to plugs which are not cool enough.
If you don't believe me, talk to Dave Walker, read the Bell book...............
Holy pistons, batman!
Well, what I see so far is a 16V n/a engine, cause the inlet pipe is missing
Seriously now, great work, and I am still astonished that you managed to fit all this WG stuff without cutting the slam panel (I honestly was fully doubtful till the very end ) What I can also see is that the engine is really still on these stiff mounts. How are the vibrations inside the car then?
I do not know JS about spark plug grades (although I personally run a quite cold grade on my 8V, but do not ask me how cold, and it just runs fine). But, re t-jet comparison - do not be so hard on yourself, once you reach 150HP, which I know you will, you will have more than a t-jet, it is only a 1.2 after all and you will be eating up factory t-jets like donuts.
Seriously now, great work, and I am still astonished that you managed to fit all this WG stuff without cutting the slam panel
(I honestly was fully doubtful till the very end ) What I can also see is that the engine is really still on these stiff mounts. How are the vibrations inside the car then? I do not know JS about spark plug grades (although I personally run a quite cold grade on my 8V, but do not ask me how cold, and it just runs fine). But, re t-jet comparison - do not be so hard on yourself, once you reach 150HP, which I know you will, you will have more than a t-jet, it is only a 1.2 after all
and you will be eating up factory t-jets like donuts.
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thanks woj yeh I had to take a hammer to the inside of the slam panel to free up some space(mostly clearance to be safe) but all is good.
the car does vibrate a bit... not tooo bad.
yeh I had to take a hammer to the inside of the slam panel to free up some space(mostly clearance to be safe) but all is good.the car does vibrate a bit... not tooo bad.
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excellent stuff Looking great :slayer:
had problems again with mine today...ran out of petrol, took me 2 hours to realise haha.
Can I have a ganders at you msq if possible, whatever shape it's in
Also you seen the new 2.1.3 beta firmwares. If there are no more bugs, the latest beta will become the stable release, so worth a play. Some nice updates in the code.
http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=42417
Looking great :slayer:had problems again with mine today...ran out of petrol, took me 2 hours to realise haha.
Can I have a ganders at you msq if possible, whatever shape it's in
Also you seen the new 2.1.3 beta firmwares. If there are no more bugs, the latest beta will become the stable release, so worth a play. Some nice updates in the code.
http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=42417
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I ran out of fuel to... and the battery kept going...
the msq was from munkul i dont know how usefull they will be until it gets moving.
the msq was from munkul i dont know how usefull they will be until it gets moving.
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Was just curious what cam/crank rise and fall settings you have compared to mine, and what timing it's set at
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no idea lol... i just set them till they worked... injector timing set to 90degrees for now all i know is it idles a lot better!
Here are the pics, is not the clearest, but you can see there are loads of room between the tensioners to the chassis!
thanks
Ming
thanks
Ming
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ming that is strange. every cento ive seen you have no hope in hell of removing the pulley.
anyway... I tried the new firmware and the car failed to start. changed settings and nothing helped so i went back and it started first turn of the key... ill look into it more when the car is finished.
all the coolant hoses are setup now.
cento took its first victim lastnight when we was getting everything warmed up and my mate who has been helping decided he would stand in front of the car when the top radiator hose came off (faulty clip it seems) and sprayed hes legs with boiling water.
the day was cut short with a trip to A&E and hes now sorted for one half of hes halloween costume.
all that i have left to do now is. tidy interior wiring and fit the boost pipes (which ill receive any time now)
anyway... I tried the new firmware and the car failed to start. changed settings and nothing helped so i went back and it started first turn of the key... ill look into it more when the car is finished.
all the coolant hoses are setup now.
cento took its first victim lastnight when we was getting everything warmed up and my mate who has been helping decided he would stand in front of the car when the top radiator hose came off (faulty clip it seems) and sprayed hes legs with boiling water.
the day was cut short with a trip to A&E and hes now sorted for one half of hes halloween costume.
all that i have left to do now is. tidy interior wiring and fit the boost pipes (which ill receive any time now)
I think Craig understands this! But its not as simple as that.
Stock 8v plugs are pretty hot - grade 5 is weak- really should be upgraded just like you said.
stock 16v plugs are pretty cold. Heat range 7 from NGK for mk2 engines, heat range 8 for mk1 engines. T-jet plugs are grade 9.
I ran stock grade 7 plugs for many thousands of miles in mine turboed, just with the new engine i've switched to grade 8's.
How does the size of a turbo determine the grade of plug you run? Oh yeah... it doesnt.
Boost, CR and engine tuning play a much bigger part in whether you need colder plugs or not.
Half the reason for the 16v engine having colder plugs is the increased CR, although it looks like Fiat backtracked a little with the mk2 engine. You lower the CR and turbo it - you can make your own decision on plugs
BTW anyone wanting to run irridiums in a turbo car - dont bother, waste of money and sometimes they melt faster than hot plugs!
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Right about the size of the turbo. Point is, though, that by no measure is it a T Jet alike, so it's barmy to take that as an example.
I forgot to mention the anti-lag, though.
I'd recon a 9 (going NGK) is likely to be OK, but would start as hard as is available -- plugs are much cheaper than pistons, and too soft will often only be apparent on long runs.
It would be a shame if it holes a piston before it gets a chance to throw a rod!
Pretty sure I've run 7s in 8valves with no ill effects -- I think only the oil burning Punto owners run 5s!
I forgot to mention the anti-lag, though.
I'd recon a 9 (going NGK) is likely to be OK, but would start as hard as is available -- plugs are much cheaper than pistons, and too soft will often only be apparent on long runs.
It would be a shame if it holes a piston before it gets a chance to throw a rod!
Pretty sure I've run 7s in 8valves with no ill effects -- I think only the oil burning Punto owners run 5s!
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