General Throttle body Pedal position sensor 1, sensor 2

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General Throttle body Pedal position sensor 1, sensor 2

Yes

The kangarooing and warning light likely to be dirty connector or dirty/damaged/dusty track/s inside the pedal

Nobody can tell you which for certain

Changing will mean if reseating does not work you don't have to go back and take the pedal off again and is a sensable option
I well cleaned the contacts - put the pedal back and .................................same situation. Car runs nicely but warning icon still there.
In the meantime, to facilitate easier reinstallation I have used shouldered nuts as with them it is point and shoot. lol I use them a lot on fiddly jobs like my mobility scooters for example.

Hopefully I can throw on the pedal that's coming with success lol before the car goes to the workshop. Usually electrical work never beats me but modern cars are becoming too dependent on chips.
Accelerator bolts Panda.JPG
 
What are you using to clear the code, They don't self clear

I find it helps to wedge the nuts onto the socket with carboard

Nothing worse than one dropping behind the carpet

IMG_20230902_150805.jpg


Tried magnets, bluetac in the past, this has worked best for me
 
Once you find it and clear the code I suspect this part of the repair will be finished
I found the reader but it seemed not to want to communicate with the car. I have had it quite a while. I am considering buying a more up-to-date one without spending a arm and a leg. Can you recommend something please.
 
I found the reader but it seemed not to want to communicate with the car. I have had it quite a while. I am considering buying a more up-to-date one without spending a arm and a leg. Can you recommend something please.
Any reader should work almost regardless of age, just to clear the code, post a picture we might be able to help

As of late 2022 the cheapest you could get a scanner that did data logging is a
C reader 30001 at £20

There are cheaper stand alone but for the extra £5 the data logging is worth it longtime in my opinion

This should just plugs in and works,

If you have an android phone you get the same functionality with a £5 Bluetooth obd2 dongle, you need to set it up and although not difficult it is more of a faf

A few suggestions on here


And a screen shot from a £5 dongle post 13 here

 
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Choices then - in no particular order:

Amazon product ASIN B07D1KH9SC

 
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Choices then - in no particular order:

Amazon product ASIN B07D1KH9SC

Last one is £20 or best offer they obviously happy sell under £20
Free 3 day postage

You can put a cheeky offer in

Around £15 sounds about right
 
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Did not accept the offer. lol
This looks the same.

I like the bigger screen this one has.
 
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First one is known to be plug and play and that's a great price for 3 day delivery,

Looks like an official dealer

Great to keep in any glovebox
 
First one is known to be plug and play and that's a great price for 3 day delivery,

Looks like an official dealer

Great to keep in any glovebox
I went for the Launch Creader 529 which came in at £30. It came today so I'll be playing with it on Friday. lol
 
Just a little update.

I started her up this morning to take her for the welding work and a new shot at an MoT after.

Blow me down if the little devil engine light was back. I was gutted.

I think the damp weather may have had something to do with it as it has belted down with rain for two and a bit days solid - but who knows.

My Creader said something about , and correct me if I am wrong, an "implausible" something or other plus some detail referring I think to the pedals internal electronics. I was in too much of a hurry to write down what it said. So I cleared it again and then decided to fit the new pedal I had bought and still got to the garage in time. The light remained cleared so I am hoping it stays that way until the MoT is done. It took me almost exactly 20 minutes to change the pedals - all done by touch. A living nightmare is this engine failure light.
 
Well done in fixing it so quickly

Fingers crossed it stays fixed this time
Thanks.
I have to say that the damp inside the Panda is horrendous, the water runs down the screen and windows inside. I have one of those reusable damp absorbers that is heated in the microwave plus cat litter stuff in the car while it is out of use.
 
Thanks.
I have to say that the damp inside the Panda is horrendous, the water runs down the screen and windows inside. I have one of those reusable damp absorbers that is heated in the microwave plus cat litter stuff in the car while it is out of use.
Shouldn't at this time of year..
Should be the same as mine which is bone dry, , The only time I had problems with condensation is if the heater is on recycling not fresh air, we need to sort this out when you passed your MOT
 
Shouldn't at this time of year..
Should be the same as mine which is bone dry, , The only time I had problems with condensation is if the heater is on recycling not fresh air, we need to sort this out when you passed your MOT
Don't forget the car stands unused but you are very right in that it needs sorting. Plus I live at the seaside. I was thinking of something like this would help.

 
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Don't forget the car stands unused but you are very right in that it needs sorting. Plus I live at the seaside. I was thinking of something like this would help.

Mines not moved for the last couple of weeks,

Cars do not like being left unused for too long

Coastal air will no doubt shorten it longevity, It will need to be absolutely dry before covering otherwise it will trap the moisture in for longer
 
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Got the Panda back yesterday and has passed the MoT.
The warning light remained off which I assume was thanks to the pedal I fitted just before taking it to the garage and it came from a 2009 Panda.
Also part the fail was rust which the original MoT garage could not fix as they do not do welding. Seems nuts to me that they cannot fix a car that you want to leave with them. So I took it to another MoT garage and had the rust - a sill - repaired with welding; they MoT'd it with a fresh MoT.
It had also failed at the first MoT on the washers not working but they worked when I tried them and worked at the second MoT!! Go figure!!

The cost was £290 for the rust work and MoT - I was hoping it would be a little less.

The new MoT still shows the same advisories but I dealt with some.

The Panda is soon to see its 20th birthday so I cannot decide if, at 51000 miles, it has been good value for money.
 
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