Did it improve when you put some grease inside the slave
Technical Sticky clutch pedal
- Thread starter brightie1
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Technical
Sticky clutch pedal
No, sadly not.
Its just a case of rolling the dice now and hoping its hydraulics rather than the clutch itself.
In some ways finding potentially contaminated fluid has given new hope that it is one of the cylinders. The sound is certainly what would be expected when a slave cylinder goes bad. Subject to the parts reaching me I'll probably fit them end of the week and report back on how it goes.
Its just a case of rolling the dice now and hoping its hydraulics rather than the clutch itself.
In some ways finding potentially contaminated fluid has given new hope that it is one of the cylinders. The sound is certainly what would be expected when a slave cylinder goes bad. Subject to the parts reaching me I'll probably fit them end of the week and report back on how it goes.
Not the slave then it should improve if greased under the rubber boot, unless it's a compatibility issue
Does the clutch pedal have a lot of sideways movement
Can you lift the pedal back up if you put your toe under it
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No, clutch pedal has little sideways movement. It doesn't stick right down like when the slave cylinder leaked but its very notchy in its travel so doesn't always rise immediately or smoothly. Makes queueing in traffic and pulling out of junctions interesting.
There is a YouTube I watched this morning for a Fiat 500 where the guy showed the pedal movement and noise it makes and it pretty much mirrors what mine is now doing. Although he had some noise still from the pedal after replacing the slave, it solved the jerky pedal travel. So for £28 Im giving it a try.
Im working on the assumption that water absorbed into the fluid has corroded the internals of the slave and crossing my fingers.
Compared to the LUK slave that I kept the one on the car off Amazon is different under the rubber. The LUK is pretty open and loose but the one on the car is solid under the rubber so grease got to very little of the internals.
There is a YouTube I watched this morning for a Fiat 500 where the guy showed the pedal movement and noise it makes and it pretty much mirrors what mine is now doing. Although he had some noise still from the pedal after replacing the slave, it solved the jerky pedal travel. So for £28 Im giving it a try.
Im working on the assumption that water absorbed into the fluid has corroded the internals of the slave and crossing my fingers.
Compared to the LUK slave that I kept the one on the car off Amazon is different under the rubber. The LUK is pretty open and loose but the one on the car is solid under the rubber so grease got to very little of the internals.
Hi all, fitted a new slave cylinder today and that has totally solved the problem. The difference is really marked, not just with the clutch action but with the gear change. Changing gears is a pleasure again.
I'm sure that it was a compatibility issue.
Although the bolt holes were in the right place and the piston went in and out there were some noticeable difference when I removed it.
As I said before, the end was solid almost the whole way around making greasing all but impossible (I've wiped off the grease that I put there to show it in the photo).
But more noticeable is the size of the opening for the hydraulic pipe. I hadn't noticed when installing it but it's much bigger. It never leaked though. I've done a video showing just how loose the bung that was in the new Febi one is in the one I took off.
Incidentally, the new Febi bilstein one I fitted had no end cap which hampered fitting a bit.
The one on the car that wasn't compatible is a TRW PJF173. Don't know if the post that says it's compatible is still on the forum, but it isn't (although it's not available on Amazon any longer anyway).
As always thank you to everybody who very kindly helped me and apologies for the bad Polish language in the background of the video from my neighbours.
I'm sure that it was a compatibility issue.
Although the bolt holes were in the right place and the piston went in and out there were some noticeable difference when I removed it.
As I said before, the end was solid almost the whole way around making greasing all but impossible (I've wiped off the grease that I put there to show it in the photo).
But more noticeable is the size of the opening for the hydraulic pipe. I hadn't noticed when installing it but it's much bigger. It never leaked though. I've done a video showing just how loose the bung that was in the new Febi one is in the one I took off.
Incidentally, the new Febi bilstein one I fitted had no end cap which hampered fitting a bit.
The one on the car that wasn't compatible is a TRW PJF173. Don't know if the post that says it's compatible is still on the forum, but it isn't (although it's not available on Amazon any longer anyway).
As always thank you to everybody who very kindly helped me and apologies for the bad Polish language in the background of the video from my neighbours.
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Thanks for the updating the thread with the solution
It will help others
It will help others
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From the early description it may be that the clutch release bearing is grinding its way into the fingers of the clutch presdure plate fingers. Do you have a first push down of the pedal after the car being standing and it feels notchy then gets better.
It's fine now thanks. The slave cylinder fitted wasn't compatible for some reason. Looked ok and fitted but wasn't listed as being compatible. Fitted during a time of shortage of slave cylinders a couple of years back. The new one has sorted it out.
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My diesel has a new slave cylinder and the quite low miles master from my 100HP. However it's recently developed a slight "tap back" from the pedal. You press the pedal and it returns as normal, but the last tiny bit of pedal travel pops back 1/2 second late. It's slightly annoying but the clutch is working fine. It's OK for now but I'm expecting it to need a new master cylinder. I'll have to see if bleeding the system helps.
Mrs Dave has one of these. It's done way more miles that the OEM type I fitted to the 100HP & moved to the Multijet.
Mrs Dave has one of these. It's done way more miles that the OEM type I fitted to the 100HP & moved to the Multijet.
Clutch Master Cylinder fits FORD KA 1.2 08 to 16 B&B 1544174 Quality Guaranteed | eBay UK
Clutch Master Cylinder fits FORD KA 1.2 08 to 16 B&B 1544174. FORD 1544174. Type Master Cylinder, clutch. FORD KA (RU8) 1.2 Hatchback Petrol 10/2008 05/2016 FWD 8 69 51. BREMBO C 23 045. FIAT 500 (312_) 1.4 (312AXC1B, 312CXC1B) Hatchback Petrol 10/2007 on FWD 16 100 74.
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If it helps, the symptoms from my non compatible slave were that it was perfectly smooth in its motion with the engine off, but with it running it could stick and jerk at any point from the bottom to the top of the travel. Can't explain why the engine running should matter but it did.
I'd also mentioned previously that my new pattern exhaust keeps on twisting so that the rear silencer keeps impacting with the heat shield.
I've tried cable ties, jubilee clips to hold it in place on the hangers and still it heads for the heat shield.
It was helpfully suggested that the supports on the pattern exhaust need bending so that's my next step.
Not sure if the ones on the silencer or the ones on the mid pipe are the ones to go for though?
For it to move sideways so significantly In tempted to think it must be the ones on the silencer? Any thoughts please?
I'd also mentioned previously that my new pattern exhaust keeps on twisting so that the rear silencer keeps impacting with the heat shield.
I've tried cable ties, jubilee clips to hold it in place on the hangers and still it heads for the heat shield.
It was helpfully suggested that the supports on the pattern exhaust need bending so that's my next step.
Not sure if the ones on the silencer or the ones on the mid pipe are the ones to go for though?
For it to move sideways so significantly In tempted to think it must be the ones on the silencer? Any thoughts please?
