General Throttle body Pedal position sensor 1, sensor 2

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General Throttle body Pedal position sensor 1, sensor 2

TBH the car is driving so well - way better than before the MoT as there was kangarooing etc. - that I suspect the pedal is working fine.
 
I can feel the thread of the stud of the top right one but cannot feel a nut. Despite this I have tried to get the socket I used on bottom left to engage top right. Likewise for top left, engaging the nut seems to elude me. The carpet seems to be in the way of bottom right.
Doesn't surprise me I was convinced the last one I did only had two, but my current car has 4

Now yours has 3 go figure there must be some logic to it somewhere but it eludes me

Saving 1 nut per car Adds up when you are building millions of cars in both time and costs
 
Doesn't surprise me I was convinced the last one I did only had two, but my current car has 4

Now yours has 3 go figure there must be some logic to it somewhere but it eludes me

Saving 1 nut per car Adds up when you are building millions of cars in both time and costs
In fact there were only two!!

I can see there is no access to the fourth plus they use a four point pedal as they have them in stock.

Accelerator pedal connector socket (2).JPG
 
Can't see too well, I suspect it will just need cleaning here and the codes clearing

View attachment 429076
I'll take another but the pins look OK to me. Actually, close up, two pins look a bit green so a clean up is in order. I can use some electrical spray cleaner I have for jobs like this. Then I'll refit and call it a day till it goes into the shop.

Pics were no good.
 
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I'll take another but the pins look OK to me. Actually, close up, two pins look a bit green so a clean up is in order. I can use some electrical spray cleaner I have for jobs like this. Then I'll refit and call it a day till it goes into the shop.

Pics were no good.
Yep that normally the problem

I had kangarooing

And solved without replacing, just cleaning

Others have replaced the pedal

It's hard to predict, If I am undecided I go for the cheap or free option first.
 
I cleaned the connector on my 100hp, and no improvement. Put a new pedal on and all sorted. Assumed it was faulty, and threw it in the junk bin (which doesn't get emptied until I have a car to weigh in for scrap, which isn't often)
About 6 months later I needed a pedal for another 100hp, which had basically turned into an On/Off switch, but was told they were on 2 week back-order.
The only one I had available was the "faulty" one. Put it on and...
Still working perfectly months later.
I've still got the brand new one on the shelf waiting for the guy to come back to get it fitted. (He has paid for it, so no hurry on my side!)
 
I cleaned the connector on my 100hp, and no improvement. Put a new pedal on and all sorted. Assumed it was faulty, and threw it in the junk bin (which doesn't get emptied until I have a car to weigh in for scrap, which isn't often)
About 6 months later I needed a pedal for another 100hp, which had basically turned into an On/Off switch, but was told they were on 2 week back-order.
The only one I had available was the "faulty" one. Put it on and...
Still working perfectly months later.
I've still got the brand new one on the shelf waiting for the guy to come back to get it fitted. (He has paid for it, so no hurry on my side!)
My dilemma is actually getting a pedal.
Do we think this one is "right"?
 
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My dilemma is actually getting a pedal.
Do we think this one is "right"?
The one I have on the shelf is a genuine part (well, it's in a FIAT/Lancia box), with part number 46838427.
As I didn't actually order it, I don't have more information.
I know its a special order part at Shop4Parts, and is not in stock at most of my usual suppliers.
I believe the majority of replacement parts are branded "Meat & Doria", and prices were from about £60 last time I was looking. Probably nearer £80 now.
 
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Is it possible that the electronics in my pedal have gone wonky so as to cause the warning light to come on the dash while the pedal still runs the motor?? It says in the handbook something about still being able to drive with the light on but to get it checked.

I guess I'll order the pedal, clean up mine and then I have choices - does that sound sensible?

I have ordered it.
 
Is it possible that the electronics in my pedal have gone wonky so as to cause the warning light to come on the dash while the pedal still runs the motor?? It says in the handbook something about still being able to drive with the light on but to get it checked.

I guess I'll order the pedal, clean up mine and then I have choices - does that sound sensible?

I have ordered it.
Yes

The kangarooing and warning light likely to be dirty connector or dirty/damaged/dusty track/s inside the pedal

Nobody can tell you which for certain

Changing will mean if reseating does not work you don't have to go back and take the pedal off again and is a sensable option
 
The potentiometers inside the pedal sensor were corroded.
Earlier, I stated I paid £30 quid for a replacement, it was actually £15.
 
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It looks like the same pedal may be used on Dualogics, 100hp, later 1.2s, according to a part number search on a couple of websites.
Just looked at a 55-plate Dualogic and it looks identical.
Haven't got a fly-by-wire 1.2 here at the moment so can't look at one at the moment.
If they are the same, there should be plenty of working second hand ones about.
However, I suspect only a few get removed before crushing....
 
It looks like the same pedal may be used on Dualogics, 100hp, later 1.2s, according to a part number search on a couple of websites.
Just looked at a 55-plate Dualogic and it looks identical.
Haven't got a fly-by-wire 1.2 here at the moment so can't look at one at the moment.
If they are the same, there should be plenty of working second hand ones about.
However, I suspect only a few get removed before crushing....
Correct
4x4
Diesel
Are the only different ones I can find

I was expect the dualogic to be different because of the kick down, Fiat appears to just use software and the same pedal
 
Doesn't surprise me I was convinced the last one I did only had two, but my current car has 4

Now yours has 3 go figure there must be some logic to it somewhere but it eludes me

Saving 1 nut per car Adds up when you are building millions of cars in both time and costs
Like selling 90HP engines but only making 85's!! They are REALLY good at that
 
To be fair, this was only real fault I had.
The rest is wear and tear.
I too have found that the missing bits are optional??? The cars have always gone, OK. Its just Im a bit OCD and if its supposed to have 4 nuts I cannot sleep if there are only three, whatever the cost and difficulty of getting the 4th one in place, and even if you dont really need it I HAVE to have it put on.
 
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