Probably it can be soldered back on.That was my mistake, how stupid of me...
or something like this
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/e39-broken-pin-repairs-to-ecu-rough-idle-and-misfire.957322/
Technical Oil light after an oil change
- Thread starter endreoze
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Technical Oil light after an oil change
or something like this
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/e39-broken-pin-repairs-to-ecu-rough-idle-and-misfire.957322/
So.. how does a plug ( the type that I never needed to disturb in 14 years of ownership )
Have snapped contacts..?
Have snapped contacts..?
Easy
Water gets in
Pins and contacts corrode together
Pull the plug off and snap. Internet is full of them
There’s a technic, tap down lift up a bit tap down again. Eventually if you are patient it come off. You need experience to know how hard you can pull which is only learnt the hard way
A lot get broken putting the connector back with a bent pin. It folds under and snaps off.
Not happened in this case as the pin is still in the other half
This is why I didn’t advise checking the ECU end. But it had already been off and no voltage at the midway point.
But it made the oil lamp malfunction.. without being unplugged
Ians Panda
Member
Yes i would maybe get a header pin and try to solder it on with good quality solder and flux, failing that, a jumper wire soldered from the ecu pin to wherever the connector wire goes.Probably it can be soldered back on.
Sorry been away from the forum other stuff going on.
Unfortunatly the broken pin may part of the failure not the cause. Probably water got into the plug causing corrosion and when you pulled the plug it broke the pin.
BUT a broken pin won't cause the MIL light to come on (unless ECU checks for NO oil presure before cranking)
It is likely you have a faulty ECU and a broken pin. If so fixing the pin won't cure the fault. What is strange is that it happened at the same time you were doing work on the car.
Ideally you would find someone who is capable of making at least a temporary repair (open ECU, solder a wire to the circuit with broken pin, connect to wire in loom and see what happens) and then doe a more permanent fix. Otherwise you will have to just buy a new ECU and hope for the best.
Robert G8RPI.
Unfortunatly the broken pin may part of the failure not the cause. Probably water got into the plug causing corrosion and when you pulled the plug it broke the pin.
BUT a broken pin won't cause the MIL light to come on (unless ECU checks for NO oil presure before cranking)
It is likely you have a faulty ECU and a broken pin. If so fixing the pin won't cure the fault. What is strange is that it happened at the same time you were doing work on the car.
Ideally you would find someone who is capable of making at least a temporary repair (open ECU, solder a wire to the circuit with broken pin, connect to wire in loom and see what happens) and then doe a more permanent fix. Otherwise you will have to just buy a new ECU and hope for the best.
Robert G8RPI.
I must be missing something obvious
the body computer tells the dash module to put the oil lamp on
the ECU communicates to the body computer via can bus to switch it off
but can't because it can't read the sensor because pin 8 is broken
It may or may not be the only problem. But with just pin 8 broken the
pressure lamp will always be on
what am I missing ?
With pin 8 broken the oil pressure sensor will always read good oil pressure. so light OFF.
Zero oil pressure is switch closed, 0V broken ECU pin is open circuit so thinks switch is open and oil pressure good.
Robert G8RPI.
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but it can't sense 0V because it can't be pulled to ground
hence the P0520 oil circuit failure and warning light
like I said it may or may not be the only problem but it one Heck of a coincidence the only pin broken goes to the oil pressure sensor and P0520 is in the original First post
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This can't be a one-off fault. Talk to ECU Testing of Nottingham.
https://www.ecutesting.com
Another option is used replacement ECU which will have to be reset to factory "virginised". This wipes the code locking the ECU to the car's set allowing it to write a new code when you plug it into your car.
This might be useful. But it is You Tube so don't hold your breath too hard.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=virginise+fiat+ecu
https://www.ecutesting.com
Another option is used replacement ECU which will have to be reset to factory "virginised". This wipes the code locking the ECU to the car's set allowing it to write a new code when you plug it into your car.
This might be useful. But it is You Tube so don't hold your breath too hard.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=virginise+fiat+ecu
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The OP said oil pressure sensor reads zero ohms to block / chassis / ground with engine off and open circut with engine running. So Open switch = good oil pressure, exactly what I'd expect.
Broken pin = open circuit, same as open switch = good oil pressure.
The only way that will put up a MIL is if the ECU does a confidence at power on and zero RPM to check for no oil pressure. As far as I know it does not do that.
Robert G8RPI.
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the computer expects 0V with no crank
it see 5V so throws the light on.
which fits the error code
its failed before it tries to switch it off
if it didn't it would never detect a broken wire ? Would fiat design if this way ?
if I had a panda here I would just go out and disconnect it and report back
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I agree, but unless somone checks on another car we can't be sure.
I've re-read the thread and the OP talks of the oil light being on, I wonder if he means the MIL? An oil presure waring light should reflect the sensor status even if it does not seem valid.. At one point he does say the error code comes up without starting the engine which supports the ECU doing a validity check.
Quick an irty fix is to solder a wire to the pin 8 connection on the PCB, run it through a (sealed) hole in the ECU case and connect it to the wire going to Pin 8 on the plug :yuck: but proves the point for no parts.
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There are various videos on You Tube showing how to "virginise" a Fiat ECU. Probably not Pandas but you never know. That deletes the car specific code locked into all ECUs on that car. New ECUs write that code when they are first connected and powered.
Pandamime on YT mentions it but isn't especially helpful. Fair enough, it's a security issue, but he might respond to a PM message.
Pandamime on YT mentions it but isn't especially helpful. Fair enough, it's a security issue, but he might respond to a PM message.
This means opening the ECU case to access the circuits inside. Use electronics grade silicone sealant to seal the hole. Do not cut the wire to the ECU plug then if you do find a new ECU, the original plug wires will continue to work normally.
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In the case of the Panda the ECU is bolted to the battery tray which in my opinion is very stupid. I removed the bolts from the battery tray which enabled me to move it around just enough to reach the thermostat bolts. Probably that was the time when I stressed the connector and the pins, even without removing the plug, and I think it was just an extreme coincidence that the oil pressure sensor pin broke, just as the same time when I switched the oil, therefore I was confused a lot. Probably this pin was already on its way out, and moving it around was just the last step breaking it. The MIL was never on after, only the low oil pressure light. With Koalar we traced back beautifully the issue. Probably the best solution will be to buy a virgin second hand ECU, and problem will be solved.
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so unlucky. I feel you pain.
I move the ECU out of the way all the time. Clutch/Thermostat/Gearbox/earth lead and so on.
I feel a fix by adding a wire to the ECU circuit board to outside would be fine.
If you aren't comfortable doing this then it would be quite simple to add a separate warning light using the original switch and leaving the ECU alone
switch ----> lamp -----> 12V
or
switch ------> resistor ------> LED -------> 12V
the original light will always be on unless you take the bulb out
I move the ECU out of the way all the time. Clutch/Thermostat/Gearbox/earth lead and so on.
I feel a fix by adding a wire to the ECU circuit board to outside would be fine.
If you aren't comfortable doing this then it would be quite simple to add a separate warning light using the original switch and leaving the ECU alone
switch ----> lamp -----> 12V
or
switch ------> resistor ------> LED -------> 12V
the original light will always be on unless you take the bulb out
I will find out something later down the road, but for now, I'm relaxed that it is not a real low oil pressure warning.
I don't know what the rules are in Denamrk, but in the UK having a engine warning light on will cause the car to fail its annual safety test (MOT).
Robert G8RPI
Robert G8RPI
