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Announced on 28 July 2009 I recall. (By "recall" I mean "Google", obviously.)
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How easy is it to flush the fluid in the clutch hydraulic system?
Cool Have done about 9k already since my service in April so I'm going to do my first self serviceI've previously described how I did it here.
The procedure is straightforward but access to the slave cylinder is obstructed by the battery & battery carrier. You can do the flush without touching the battery if you don't mind working blind; moving the airbox to one side helps considerably. Study carefully the photo showing the bleed tube in position. You'll need an allen key for the bleed screw. It's easy to make a mess so protect the area round the slave cylinder with rags as best you can, and wash it thoroughly with soapy water afterwards to get rid of any fluid that might have spilt.
Will axle stands be enough to get under the car to change the oil filter or is it best to get a set of ramps?
Always good to see a run through of things before you do it Got some filters on the way, just need to get some plugs, a tool for the oil filter and for the sump plug and then some axle standsAxle stands (actually just one axle stand) will suffice. You only need jack up the offside front of the car to slightly less than the height you'd need to change a wheel. .
Oil change procedure here, though you probably won't need it .
:yeahthat:
Many premature synchro failures are the result of dodgy clutch hydraulics. I've said it before, but it's cheap insurance to change the clutch fluid every 2 years when you do the brakes. My clutch fluid was shot after a year. And don't continue to drive any distance if you notice the clutch starting to drag.
The system on RHD 500's looks more like an afterthought than a deliberate act of design. Give me a cable clutch any day. At least they fail outright, which protects the 'box from those 'carry on regardless' drivers.