Technical Gearbox selector

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Technical Gearbox selector

WitleyPanda

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4x4, clutch still operates, but can only put into reverse, with extra force. Cannot select any forward gear. Fluid level ok. Clutch works as once in reverse you can engage and disengage drive.

Is there a cut-away, section view or an exploded view of the stick and selector mechanism anywhere? I am assuming end has jumped out or stick to selector fork/end has shifted/moved?

Anyone else had this/solved this.

TIA
Peter
 
Model
4x4 MJ
Year
2012
Mileage
120000
4x4, clutch still operates, but can only put into reverse, with extra force. Cannot select any forward gear. Fluid level ok. Clutch works as once in reverse you can engage and disengage drive.

Is there a cut-away, section view or an exploded view of the stick and selector mechanism anywhere? I am assuming end has jumped out or stick to selector fork/end has shifted/moved?

Anyone else had this/solved this.

TIA
Peter
Is the gear stick loose or feeling normal to move?
 
Is the gear stick loose or feeling normal to move?
Potentially loose, with engine off, clutch down you can still select a gear ( chose first). Then turning on engine you can raise clutch pedal and drive ( which i did to get it up on to the ramps). Have to depress clutch and kill engine to disengage gear. Same for reverse.

Whilst there may be play in the change mechanism, think issue is slave cylinder. Waiting for the rain to cease to look further.
 
Potentially loose, with engine off, clutch down you can still select a gear ( chose first). Then turning on engine you can raise clutch pedal and drive ( which i did to get it up on to the ramps). Have to depress clutch and kill engine to disengage gear. Same for reverse.

Whilst there may be play in the change mechanism, think issue is slave cylinder. Waiting for the rain to cease to look further.
Any info on the slave, where it is, how to bleed , how to remove would be good so please keep us posted. Im getting too old tocrawl under to find lout these things for myself. Sitting up straight is hard work today!
 
I think its more likely a gear change cable that has failed or is about to go completely. You can slip the ends off and see what happens when you pull on them. If it comes off in your hand it needs a new set!
That was my original thoughts, but does not explain the noise in engaging reverse?

How do I access the cables? take battery out and then tray etc, or can I access from underneath? these?

1749205037911.png
 
Is the noise grating . If the cables struggle to pull tge gear in cleanly it would explan that.

I would definitely remove battery. I think you have to go under to get the lever ends. The clutch release pivit has been kniw to seize solid I think @hertshillhopper has posted on this. I can see this occuring overnight too.
 
Is the noise grating . If the cables struggle to pull tge gear in cleanly it would explan that.

I would definitely remove battery. I think you have to go under to get the lever ends. The clutch release pivit has been kniw to seize solid I think @hertshillhopper has posted on this. I can see this occuring overnight too.
No grating noise on 1-5, cables seem to work, used a borescope to view. BUT, on activating the 1-2,3-4,5-R on the yellow terminated cable the piece highlighted in yellow moves ( ok), but seems odd that there are two holes in it and nothing connected? Battery, tray, ECU etc all coming out.
1749211345900.png
 
No grating noise on 1-5, cables seem to work, used a borescope to view. BUT, on activating the 1-2,3-4,5-R on the yellow terminated cable the piece highlighted in yellow moves ( ok), but seems odd that there are two holes in it and nothing connected? Battery, tray, ECU etc all coming out.View attachment 468457


Mine has those little holes I think they are some manufacturing thing.

I think the cables pop, off the ball joint underneath then you can push pull the ends directly. If it were the clutch / slave reverse is normally the first gear that gets very difficult. Bad cables will normally have some sort of bad feel, but they can continue to work right up until the last strand lets go. Can you post a vidoe of the lever action and any noises? That might give more to comment on. Haynes says pop them off using a spanner underneath and prise up. ONe thought, have you checked the oil level first?? MY Laguna ran 40K before I finally got fed up and did this. It had almost no oil in the box and had been like if from new. It was fine with oil in it....
 
with engine off, clutch down you can still select a gear
Have to depress clutch and kill engine to disengage gear. Same for reverse.
Sounds to me like clutch isn't fully disengaging.

If you can select all gears fine with the engine off, then lever, cables and selectors are probably all fine.

With engine off, using the clutch won't make any difference as the engine and gearbox input shaft aren't turning.

Is clutch release arm moving far enough?

Video here showing how much movement there should be:

Try bleeding the clutch slave? Any signs of leak on the slave or master?
 
Last edited:
A bit late to this thread. The gearbox end of the cables can be seen (with instructions on how to get to them) in my post about a stiff gearchange, here. But, sounds like is more likely a clutch issue from other comments?
 
Any info on the slave, where it is, how to bleed , how to remove would be good so please keep us posted. Im getting too old tocrawl under to find lout these things for myself. Sitting up straight is hard work today!
On the 4x4 diesel (MJ), the slave is inside the clutch housing, concentric with the release bearing. To reach it means removing the gearbox.
 
Update: No leaks, could not see bleed nipple to slave cylinder. Consensus that this a clutch issue, done 120K miles. I do most of stuff on vehicles, just done clutch/gearbox on Defender 90, but probably tow this to a mate , since under cover, in garage, a 2 post and another pair of hands will make it easier. Looking at July/August time slot. Have resources to weld/machine bell etc if needed.

Thank you all for the input.

So drastic measures : brought another Panda, 4x4x 1.3, just newer, but 2/3 the mileage, bit rough on wheels and body kit, but moves and mechanically sound. However flashing odo, despite new battery and start/stop working, full volts, full charge etc. Racked up couple hundred miles since Saturday. Will start another thread on that in due course.
 
Mine has those little holes I think they are some manufacturing thing.

I think the cables pop, off the ball joint underneath then you can push pull the ends directly. If it were the clutch / slave reverse is normally the first gear that gets very difficult. Bad cables will normally have some sort of bad feel, but they can continue to work right up until the last strand lets go. Can you post a vidoe of the lever action and any noises? That might give more to comment on. Haynes says pop them off using a spanner underneath and prise up. ONe thought, have you checked the oil level first?? MY Laguna ran 40K before I finally got fed up and did this. It had almost no oil in the box and had been like if from new. It was fine with oil in it....
Thanks, found a YouTube for the cable replacement, but this not the cables.
 
Update: No leaks, could not see bleed nipple to slave cylinder. Consensus that this a clutch issue, done 120K miles. I do most of stuff on vehicles, just done clutch/gearbox on Defender 90, but probably tow this to a mate , since under cover, in garage, a 2 post and another pair of hands will make it easier. Looking at July/August time slot. Have resources to weld/machine bell etc if needed.

Thank you all for the input.

So drastic measures : brought another Panda, 4x4x 1.3, just newer, but 2/3 the mileage, bit rough on wheels and body kit, but moves and mechanically sound. However flashing odo, despite new battery and start/stop working, full volts, full charge etc. Racked up couple hundred miles since Saturday. Will start another thread on that in due course.
Flashing odometer seems to be a common sign of Blue&Me unit failing. Will drain the battery too, even with ignition off.
 
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