Technical Drive shaft removal, for gearbox removal?

[WitleyPanda]

Replacing clutch on 2012 1.3MJ 4x4. Have removed near side shaft. Struggling to remove the offside/driver side drive shaft? Does the circlip need removing?

Any notes on removal and of further process welcome please.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I have a distant recollection of reading that the transfer box that send drive to the 4x4 propshaft needs to be removed…. But can’t find where I saw that.

 

[WitleyPanda]

I have a distant recollection of reading that the transfer box that send drive to the 4x4 propshaft needs to be removed…. But can’t find where I saw that.

Thanks.
Only other input I have is hit with a piece of wood, as per older Panda and 500?

 

[ZaphodB]

Try turning it in between clonks

 

[WitleyPanda]

Try turning it in between clonks

Please explain further? Outer end disconnected already.

 

[ZaphodB]

See if this high speed video helps

 

[rmjbn1]

They can put up a fight on the 2WD, the spring clip on the end of the driveshaft has to be correctly oriented with the gap at the top.
Rotating the shaft a little can help get the clip positioned right, as this video shows.

Keep rotating a little and a smart whack

 

[rmjbn1]

Other option would be to separate the inner plunge joint, leaving the cup in the diff.

Remove the clip from inner CV boot next to the diff, and the spider on the end of the driveshaft can slide out of the plunge joint

You'll need a new CV boot clip to reassemble. Can use a zip tie, but not a jubilee clip

 

[ZaphodB]

Keep rotating a little and a smart whack

That's what I was saying

 

[WitleyPanda]

See if this high speed video helps

He just appears to pull it ? at about 58 seconds in.

 

[rmjbn1]

He just appears to pull it ? at about 58 seconds in.

He's separated the inner plunge joint by removing the boot clip
But doesn't show it

You can see the spider on the end of the driveshaft, meaning the cup half of the plunge joint is still in the diff.

Image courtesy of koalar, on 2WD 'box

 

[WitleyPanda]

I have a distant recollection of reading that the transfer box that send drive to the 4x4 propshaft needs to be removed…. But can’t find where I saw that.

I can confirm that the transfer box does need to be removed. It overlaps a flange/ feature on the engine and the bell house, gearbox, critically the spline and a stud have not dis-engaged before you run out of travel/clearance.

 

[WitleyPanda]

That's what I was saying

Alas seized nearly solid. There is a few thou of lateral relative movement, but it refused to part. So the C moon casting had to also be roamed from back of the engine. ( Because eventually removed the transfer box, actually could have left the drive shaft in and would have needed one less pair of hands or transmission Jack for the box, as would of been held in place?)

 

[WitleyPanda]

Thanks for the various input. Now out. Was quite a bit of complicated manipulation to get the clearance and flight path to get it out. Partially dropped the subframe to gain the last 10mm.

The clutch plate was in good condition and plenty of friction material left, original and done 112,000. However the bearing/slave cylinder appears to be the problem. Will fit a LUK clutch and genuine concentric slave.

Will also replace thermostat housing whilst free to access.

This definitely a Haynes 5 spanner difficulty job and not a lone individual on ramps, axle stands on the driveway Saturday morning job.