Technical Gearbox selector

[WitleyPanda]

4x4, clutch still operates, but can only put into reverse, with extra force. Cannot select any forward gear. Fluid level ok. Clutch works as once in reverse you can engage and disengage drive.

Is there a cut-away, section view or an exploded view of the stick and selector mechanism anywhere? I am assuming end has jumped out or stick to selector fork/end has shifted/moved?

Anyone else had this/solved this.

TIA
Peter

 

[euroben]

4x4, clutch still operates, but can only put into reverse, with extra force. Cannot select any forward gear. Fluid level ok. Clutch works as once in reverse you can engage and disengage drive.

Is there a cut-away, section view or an exploded view of the stick and selector mechanism anywhere? I am assuming end has jumped out or stick to selector fork/end has shifted/moved?

Anyone else had this/solved this.

TIA
Peter

Is the gear stick loose or feeling normal to move?

 

[WitleyPanda]

Is the gear stick loose or feeling normal to move?

Potentially loose, with engine off, clutch down you can still select a gear ( chose first). Then turning on engine you can raise clutch pedal and drive ( which i did to get it up on to the ramps). Have to depress clutch and kill engine to disengage gear. Same for reverse.

Whilst there may be play in the change mechanism, think issue is slave cylinder. Waiting for the rain to cease to look further.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I think its more likely a gear change cable that has failed or is about to go completely. You can slip the ends off and see what happens when you pull on them. If it comes off in your hand it needs a new set!

 

[The Panda Nut]

Potentially loose, with engine off, clutch down you can still select a gear ( chose first). Then turning on engine you can raise clutch pedal and drive ( which i did to get it up on to the ramps). Have to depress clutch and kill engine to disengage gear. Same for reverse.

Whilst there may be play in the change mechanism, think issue is slave cylinder. Waiting for the rain to cease to look further.

Any info on the slave, where it is, how to bleed , how to remove would be good so please keep us posted. Im getting too old tocrawl under to find lout these things for myself. Sitting up straight is hard work today!

 

[WitleyPanda]

I think its more likely a gear change cable that has failed or is about to go completely. You can slip the ends off and see what happens when you pull on them. If it comes off in your hand it needs a new set!

That was my original thoughts, but does not explain the noise in engaging reverse?

How do I access the cables? take battery out and then tray etc, or can I access from underneath? these?

 

[The Panda Nut]

Is the noise grating . If the cables struggle to pull tge gear in cleanly it would explan that.

I would definitely remove battery. I think you have to go under to get the lever ends. The clutch release pivit has been kniw to seize solid I think @hertshillhopper has posted on this. I can see this occuring overnight too.

 

[WitleyPanda]

Is the noise grating . If the cables struggle to pull tge gear in cleanly it would explan that.

I would definitely remove battery. I think you have to go under to get the lever ends. The clutch release pivit has been kniw to seize solid I think @hertshillhopper has posted on this. I can see this occuring overnight too.

No grating noise on 1-5, cables seem to work, used a borescope to view. BUT, on activating the 1-2,3-4,5-R on the yellow terminated cable the piece highlighted in yellow moves ( ok), but seems odd that there are two holes in it and nothing connected? Battery, tray, ECU etc all coming out.

 

[The Panda Nut]

No grating noise on 1-5, cables seem to work, used a borescope to view. BUT, on activating the 1-2,3-4,5-R on the yellow terminated cable the piece highlighted in yellow moves ( ok), but seems odd that there are two holes in it and nothing connected? Battery, tray, ECU etc all coming out.View attachment 468457

Mine has those little holes I think they are some manufacturing thing.

I think the cables pop, off the ball joint underneath then you can push pull the ends directly. If it were the clutch / slave reverse is normally the first gear that gets very difficult. Bad cables will normally have some sort of bad feel, but they can continue to work right up until the last strand lets go. Can you post a vidoe of the lever action and any noises? That might give more to comment on. Haynes says pop them off using a spanner underneath and prise up. ONe thought, have you checked the oil level first?? MY Laguna ran 40K before I finally got fed up and did this. It had almost no oil in the box and had been like if from new. It was fine with oil in it....

 

[The Panda Nut]

May be this will be of some assistance. I have not translated as the bits I have managed to translate are not marvellous. If it helps thats a bonus.

 

[rmjbn1]

with engine off, clutch down you can still select a gear
Have to depress clutch and kill engine to disengage gear. Same for reverse.

Sounds to me like clutch isn't fully disengaging.

If you can select all gears fine with the engine off, then lever, cables and selectors are probably all fine.

With engine off, using the clutch won't make any difference as the engine and gearbox input shaft aren't turning.

Is clutch release arm moving far enough?

Video here showing how much movement there should be:

Clutch pedal not working after clutch replacement. | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

Hello everyone, I have an issue with my fiat Panda 1.2 Dynamic and would like to know if someone has experienced something similar and how to fix it. My car needs the clutch replaced and I am doing the fitting myself. The issue I've got is that after replacing the clutch, the clutch pedal...

www.fiatforum.com

Try bleeding the clutch slave? Any signs of leak on the slave or master?

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

A bit late to this thread. The gearbox end of the cables can be seen (with instructions on how to get to them) in my post about a stiff gearchange, here. But, sounds like is more likely a clutch issue from other comments?

Cure for a stiff gearlever, Multijet 4x4

One or two folks have reported issues with the gear-lever becoming stiff to move, and not freely springing back to the centre position. I investigated the issue, and managed to cure mine by removing a rod on the outside of the gearbox and...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Any info on the slave, where it is, how to bleed , how to remove would be good so please keep us posted. Im getting too old tocrawl under to find lout these things for myself. Sitting up straight is hard work today!

On the 4x4 diesel (MJ), the slave is inside the clutch housing, concentric with the release bearing. To reach it means removing the gearbox.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Do you know if it is completely sealed or or can it be bled at all?

 

[Eltezz]

Bleed nipple is on the top of the gearbox, part of the concentric bearing assembly.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Bleed nipple is on the top of the gearbox, part of the concentric bearing assembly.

Beat me to it - I was going to say that there must be an external bleed

 

[WitleyPanda]

Update: No leaks, could not see bleed nipple to slave cylinder. Consensus that this a clutch issue, done 120K miles. I do most of stuff on vehicles, just done clutch/gearbox on Defender 90, but probably tow this to a mate , since under cover, in garage, a 2 post and another pair of hands will make it easier. Looking at July/August time slot. Have resources to weld/machine bell etc if needed.

Thank you all for the input.

So drastic measures : brought another Panda, 4x4x 1.3, just newer, but 2/3 the mileage, bit rough on wheels and body kit, but moves and mechanically sound. However flashing odo, despite new battery and start/stop working, full volts, full charge etc. Racked up couple hundred miles since Saturday. Will start another thread on that in due course.

 

[WitleyPanda]

Mine has those little holes I think they are some manufacturing thing.

I think the cables pop, off the ball joint underneath then you can push pull the ends directly. If it were the clutch / slave reverse is normally the first gear that gets very difficult. Bad cables will normally have some sort of bad feel, but they can continue to work right up until the last strand lets go. Can you post a vidoe of the lever action and any noises? That might give more to comment on. Haynes says pop them off using a spanner underneath and prise up. ONe thought, have you checked the oil level first?? MY Laguna ran 40K before I finally got fed up and did this. It had almost no oil in the box and had been like if from new. It was fine with oil in it....

Thanks, found a YouTube for the cable replacement, but this not the cables.

 

[Eltezz]

If you do an internet search on FIAT 55243919 the various photos will show a dark green cap over the bleed nipple.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Update: No leaks, could not see bleed nipple to slave cylinder. Consensus that this a clutch issue, done 120K miles. I do most of stuff on vehicles, just done clutch/gearbox on Defender 90, but probably tow this to a mate , since under cover, in garage, a 2 post and another pair of hands will make it easier. Looking at July/August time slot. Have resources to weld/machine bell etc if needed.

Thank you all for the input.

So drastic measures : brought another Panda, 4x4x 1.3, just newer, but 2/3 the mileage, bit rough on wheels and body kit, but moves and mechanically sound. However flashing odo, despite new battery and start/stop working, full volts, full charge etc. Racked up couple hundred miles since Saturday. Will start another thread on that in due course.

Flashing odometer seems to be a common sign of Blue&Me unit failing. Will drain the battery too, even with ignition off.