Technical Fiat panda 1.2 Engine Ventilation Hose

[atakan123123]

I have an idle problem in my car. No malfunction lamp is on. I'm checking the electrical installation.

I had to remove this hose while checking. It has cracked because it has hardened over the years.

Could this hose have something to do with the idle?


At this time, the fault light started to come on.

Is there anything that needs to be done to calibrate the throttle valves after removing the battery?

Working videos

 

[koalar]

You have a problem

It's nothing to do with the breather pipe

It sounds like it's running on two cylinder at low revs

When the engine is cold, if you accelerate hard is there a knocking noise from the engine


Try this test post 17

Koalar random thoughts | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

Got the car here for a few day 1.2 petrol 2011 Going to post a few pictures and video of some simple and basic tests My well be a bit random as they pop into my head and might sort them into the proper order later

www.fiatforum.com

 

[atakan123123]

The air filter box is not installed in the video.

It normally works as it should.

It can give all its power while driving. It doesn't make any waves. It works normally when I turn on the throttle.

I'm just having an idle problem.


I've checked all the wiring of the injection system and can't find any electrical faults.

 

[koalar]

At this time, the fault light started to come on.

Helps to read the code,

Is there anything that needs to be done to calibrate the throttle valves after removing the battery?

No it not effected by disconnecting the battery

 

[koalar]

They run fine without the airbox and pipes connected

I see an early engine, cable throttle and LPG

Is that factory LPG

Read the code would normally be the first step, any chance to borrow a reader

 

[koalar]

This bit where its idling at a steady 900rpm does not sound like it's running on all cylinders

 

[atakan123123]

The reader in my hand is interestingly not connecting to my car.
I'm considering buying a Creader 3001.

Unfortunately, it is not the original LPG of the factory.

This complicates the electrical installation as one wire from each sensor is combined. I also check and secure the cables and joints that I can reach.

In fact, it doesn't stay at a constant 900rpm. I'm stepping on the gas myself.

I disassembled and checked the injection sockets. Maybe I've been preventing something from making contact.

I'm really confused.

I have read your experiences on the subject you sent. I am trying to implement.

 

[koalar]

Koalar random thoughts | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

You can tell if the coil pack is getting a control signal and giving a good spark like this If one is weeker and the spark does not jump as far than the others it's suspect It is possible to get a jolt if you do something wrong, probably not a good idea if you have a pace maker As long as the...

www.fiatforum.com

Post 27

Take each spark plug lead off one at a time

See which if any make it worse or no difference

Yours sounds like it's on two cylinders at 900 rpm

 

[atakan123123]

I guess just like in your video. I touched many parts of the car.
Ignition coil energy inputs.
Spark plug wires. injection energy cables.
I need to detect faults and find the problem.

Maybe my previous problem was that one of the cylinders was not working. Now I doubled them.

 

[atakan123123]

I just removed the spark plugs one by one. I saw and heard sparks in the pipes. Some cylinders are not affected at all, while others are very affected. I don't understand this part yet.


I disassembled the IAC. I took the video before copying it. It was quite dirty and greasy inside. I needed to do some cleaning.

After cleaning and assembly. I started the car.

I'm currently idling around 800rpm. The car does not stop. At idle everything is fine.

However, when I suddenly release the accelerator pedal, the car stops working. It stops when I suddenly give gas and pull.


Also, the nasty noise from the air intake before is no longer heard. The sound of the car has improved a lot.


I still don't have an air intake hose and the fault light is on.

I'm waiting for the air hose to arrive. And I'm still looking for an odb device.



I still haven't removed the spark plugs. Because I bought the spark plug wrench. I haven't received it yet. If it doesn't fix when I plug in the hose, I'll take it off.


Do you know what the gap of spark plugs should be? How many millimeters?

I need a service manual, because I can't find it, I have difficulties in all of these issues.

 

[koalar]

I just removed the spark plugs one by one. I saw and heard sparks in the pipes. Some cylinders are not affected at all, while others are very affected. I don't understand this part yet.

The ones that have no effect are the ones
Not producing any combustion at idle

This needs sorting first

Spark, fuel, combustion

If it cylinder one and two that make little difference I would go straight to a compression test

 

[koalar]

Do you know what the gap of spark plugs should be? How many millimeters?

Standard petrol are 0.8 or 1 mm depending on brand

 

[koalar]

I need a service manual, because I can't find it, I have difficulties in all of these issues.

Click on the link below

Home Page

aftersales.fiat.com

 

[DaveMcT]

With engine cold, wet the exhaust outlets stubs and start engine. Spark plugs fire in pairs 1&4 and 2&3. If one coil is miss-firing, you will see those exhaust stubs remaining cold for longer that the other two. You can prove it by swapping the coils and repeating the test. If the cold stubs move, you have found the faulty coil.

HOWEVER, when one coil fails, the other won't be far behind and a pair cost just £25. Swap the pair and be done with it.

 

[atakan123123]

In the past weeks, the t-hose at the engine outlet burst. Meanwhile, the temperature light was on for about 1 minute.


I think I have bigger problems.
I revved the car to 5000 rpm a few times. The radiator's inlet hose burst. There is a very light film of oil on the antifreeze.

I think some water is getting into my cylinder. Therefore the cylinder does not work. I will replace the radiator hose and do a compression test. Then we'll probably go to the repair shop.

The photo is of the entrance that exploded before.

My car has only 78,000 miles. This situation made me very sad.

 

[atakan123123]

My Califer radiator was not working well. I used Wurth brand radiator cleaner. After vacuuming, my heater turned on and it heats very well. But then these problems arose.

I think it's the plastic and rubber parts that have hardened over the years. They end their lives one by one.

My gasket probably got too hard. And he left himself with the warmth. Can I change it myself?

 

[koalar]

You didn't say which cylinders made little difference

If it's one and two

I suspect you will have

A compression test is the next step to save wasting any time

No a big deal, the car that the gasket above belonged to was back on the road for £20

If its not had a recent cam belt it would be silly not to replace it at the same time as it has to come off but does add to the overall cost



Just takes time and effort

 

[jrkitching]

Just takes time and effort

...and, if my memory serves me correctly, the ability to think outside the box and a willingness to improvise

Was this the one that got the low spot patched with metal filler?

I remember my grandfather once making an otherwise unobtainable replacement HG out of sheet copper using only hand tools, and annealing it afterwards by eye with a paraffin blowlamp.

 

[koalar]

...and, if my memory serves me correctly, the ability to think outside the box and a willingness to improvise

Was this the one that got the low spot patched with metal filler?

I remember my grandfather once made an otherwise unobtainable replacement HG out of sheet copper using only hand tools, and annealing it afterwards.

Nope that's still going, just failed it's MOT on a few minor things

Be back on the road next week, flew through the emissions 100X better than the permissable on both hydrocarbons and co2

The one above had the core plugs fail both side timing and gearbox at different times,

Not corroded just split

 

[atakan123123]

I felt like there was something wrong with cylinders 1 and 2.

When I removed numbers 3 and 4, the vibration of the engine increased.

What type of compression tester should I buy? I dont have. Can you help me? Is there anything special I should know?