Technical Failed MOT

[AnthonyH]

Mask on and don't go further in than that wear lip that you can feel at the edge wear brake shoes don't reach, otherwise you will cause uneven braking etc.
Remember the only reason for grinding away that lip is to allow drum to go on and off easily after shoes have adjusted up.

Righto i'll keep this in mind, i can neither find my new flap discs nor my face mask, finding those will take longer than the actual grinding lol

 

[bugsymike]

You could also do the chamfer (on the lathe) to eliminate the "lip" forming in the future.

To check the operation during "strip & clean" consider doing special tool/jig like that. From the old drum. This is too fancy.

This is easier. Just the "rim" (cut from the drum).

I had a "customer" complaing his car was pulling to one side and the brake disc had come away from the locating hub centre due to massive wear.
On explaining the cost he drove it away to give back to his daughter and her new born child!
To say I was disgusted was an understatement and I put the full details of what I had found on his invoice, so at least I had a copy.

 

[AnthonyH]

The first drum is done.

Before;

After

Before

After;

I could do more, but only at the risk of taking too much off. I figured it was best to get the surface rust off which causes most friction.

 

[bugsymike]

The first drum is done.

Before;

View attachment 479955

After

View attachment 479954

Before

View attachment 479953

After;

View attachment 479957

I could do more, but only at the risk of taking too much off. I figured it was best to get the surface rust off which causes most friction.

As long as it isn't too noticeable ridge then should be able to wriggle drum off the brakes.
You may need to clean the drums with brake cleaner or similar before fitting.

 

[AnthonyH]

As long as it isn't too noticeable ridge then should be able to wriggle drum off the brakes.
You may need to clean the drums with brake cleaner or similar before fitting.

Thats with brake cleaner, seems i underdid the cleanup lol. I'll get a wire brush on them, gently.

 

[bugsymike]

Thats with brake cleaner, seems i underdid the cleanup lol. I'll get a wire brush on them, gently.

It was more if anything slippery that reduces brake effort, grinding dust etc.

 

[AnthonyH]

The right drum went on nice, the grinding of the lip has helped.

These positioning screws were quite a problem to get off, which grease can i put on the thread? Is it worth it?

I'm going to start on the other drum now.

 

[jackwhoo]

The right drum went on nice, the grinding of the lip has helped.

These positioning screws were quite a problem to get off, which grease can i put on the thread? Is it worth it?

View attachment 479958

I'm going to start on the other drum now.

They only need be screwdriver tight. No rust on threads so no grease

Just there to stop drum falling off when wheel off, wish we know is very unlikely

 

[Mike1alike]

These positioning screws were quite a problem to get off, which grease can i put on the thread? Is it worth it?

A blob of copper grease could do.

 

[AnthonyH]

Both drums go on and off easily now.

Is it worth putting grease on the hub?

I've still not tightened the brake cables up, either under the car or in the cabin.

 

[jackwhoo]

Both drums go on and off easily now.

Is it worth putting grease on the hub?

I've still not tightened the brake cables up, either under the car or in the cabin.

No grease between drum and hub

Not tightened cables under car????

 

[AnthonyH]

No grease between drum and hub

Not tightened under car????

I've done all 4 on the right, baring a little tweak and final check over.

2 done on the left, i need to repair one with a cable tie and reposition the other.

I don't have time to finish this today, will restart tomorrow morning

 

[jackwhoo]

I've done all 4 on the right, baring a little tweak and final check over.

2 done on the left, i need to repair one with a cable tie and reposition the other.

I don't have time to finish this today, will restart tomorrow morning

Fitted to retaining points under car.

 

[AnthonyH]

Fitted to retaining points under car.

I'll post pics of what i do regarding the cable tie.

And some video before "signing it off", in case i missed something - or something doesn't work

 

[jackwhoo]

Both drums go on and off easily now.

Is it worth putting grease on the hub?

I've still not tightened the brake cables up, either under the car or in the cabin.

DO NOT TURN THE CABLE ADJUSTER IN THE CAR AGAIN .
you have taken out the slack in the cable which is what the in car adjuster is for.

If auto ajusters working all will be good , if not someone will have to explain turning the adjuster wheel with a thin screwdriver through a bolt hole while pedal depressed.

 

[AnthonyH]

Righto. I haven't done anything with the cable adjuster in the car apart from take the slack out. Tomorrow i will;

1) Finish tightening / repairing under the car
2) Check the handrake cables are still at their stops
3) Leave the handbrake completely alone
4) Press the brake pedal repeatedly / spin the hubs
5) Hope for the best

 

[AnthonyH]

This is what the hubs curently spin like;

Right

Left

 

[jackwhoo]

Did you make sure to fit drums back to their original sides ie not mix up left and right?

Did you press brakes lots to settle shoes in position? Before video of spin?

 

[bugsymike]

Did you make sure to fit drums back to their original sides ie not mix up left and right?

Did you press brakes lots to settle shoes in position? Before video of spin?

Agree there is a light off centre rubbing noise, I usually give slight tap with copper mallet to square up drum on hub.
Still should be fine once other drum on and you press brake pedal a few times.

 

[jackwhoo]

Agree there is a light off centre rubbing noise, I usually give slight tap with copper mallet to square up drum on hub.
Still should be fine once other drum on and you press brake pedal a few times.

Probably best not to mention hammer to the op!