This is the best i could come up with at short notice
Bit of a waste of RedBull
Monster would have survived that though !!
Technical Failed MOT
- Thread starter AnthonyH
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Technical
Failed MOT
Monster would have survived that though !!
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If that'd been Monster, after he'd smashed the can to pieces, the drink would have sucked up into this mouth for him to drink it lolMonster would have survived that though !!
Nah, the hammer would have bounced off the monster, and rebounded to give him a wedgie haircut looking at the other end of that hammer!!
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How about this one?
Various appointments but no results yet.
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The NHS still works and gets there, but the waiting isn't much fun.Various appointments but no results yet.
I agree number 5 shaft too long for cars.
I was happy with the number four Thor and of course I had my steel toe cap work boots on.
I also have a short proper sledge hammer and a full size 12lb one which I could at one time swing right around my head to break up concrete etc. Also when we visited fairground with the children I could always ring the bell with the wooden mallet, though no longer.
Even a standard engineers hammer 1.5lb can do some damage, as an apprentice I knocked my self unconscious by hitting my kneecap instead of a Mk 2 Ford Consol suspension joint! Good job I soon learnt some accuracy.
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It's fast becoming a race between the NHS appointments and the coffin, sadly. (Been waiting 18 months for a prostate op, having already waited 8 months to get this far!! First referred by GP in 2023!!)
Dad died of bladder cancer, younger brother died of prostate cancer, so I was 'supposed' to be a priority case!! At 74 not sure who's gonna get me first!!
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Ahhh. It doesn't seem that long ago that it was relatively quick and easy to get appointments, even with consultants. I think someone knows what happened but unfortunatly i don't. Its just crap. For now i don't have much call to see doctors, what i miss are NHS dentists. I can't blame them not wanting to do a filling for £60, the system is just wrong.It's fast becoming a race between the NHS appointments and the coffin, sadly. (Been waiting 18 months for a prostate op, having already waited 8 months to get this far!! First referred by GP in 2023!!)
Dad died of bladder cancer, younger brother died of prostate cancer, so I was 'supposed' to be a priority case!! At 74 not sure who's gonna get me first!!
My mate has just had that op, not pleasant but he is recovering, not something to be put off by waiting lists.It's fast becoming a race between the NHS appointments and the coffin, sadly. (Been waiting 18 months for a prostate op, having already waited 8 months to get this far!! First referred by GP in 2023!!)
Dad died of bladder cancer, younger brother died of prostate cancer, so I was 'supposed' to be a priority case!! At 74 not sure who's gonna get me first!!
Best wishes.
Not pleasant for sure, but better that the alternative though!! Not afraid of the op, just hope that it's sorted before the good Lord decides I've run out of time!!My mate has just had that op, not pleasant but he is recovering, not something to be put off by waiting lists.
Just annoys me that Sir Chris Hoy is chasing the Government to make prostate cancer checking a 'priority' yet 2 years for someone with a family history of problems is 'normal'
(also, assume if a 'migrant' needs medical surgery, they somehow get 'priority' over nationals!! seen this at our GP's sadly. No appointments for regular patients yet, immigrants somehow get 'same day' ones!!)
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It seems I get the pleasure of being rained on all day Sunday. Just as well I'm almost finished
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I went out to the car and pumped the brakes and spun the hubs but i didn't hear any clicking from the self adjusters and the equalizer bar in the cabin seems much the same. I'll try again later.
Its too wet to do anything under the car, i need to reposition and tighten up the brackets but i'm already wet through.
Its too wet to do anything under the car, i need to reposition and tighten up the brackets but i'm already wet through.
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I reckon the mechanic that fitted the handbrake cables last time, after fitting right cable on the left and vice versa, then messed around with the path of the cables to try to lengthen and shorten their paths. Under the car the cable paths just don't look right.
As long as they align roughly with the original fixing points and are secure and not hanging down low, then that side should be OK.
Regarding brake operation, with drums on I would work the foot and handbrake multiple times, at the end the self adjusters if working should have given you a good foot brake, then with handbrake off and brake pedal released you should be able to spin the rear brake drums without dragging/binding.
If that is the case I would then adjust the hand brake inside the car until it feels reasonable amount of clicks as advised, I would then release it and check that both rear drums turn freely, if they don't then back off handbrake adjustment until they do, next I would fit the rear wheels and tighten the bolts with car still off the ground, next pull on handbrake and see if you can then tighten the wheel nuts without the wheels trying to turn.
Note another check is to gradually pull the handbrake lever on one click at a time and check when rear wheels start to tighten from the handbrake use, they should feel roughly equal both sides assuming self adjusters are functioning correctly and all good inside brake drums.
After doing that release the handbrake and again check the wheels spin freely, assuming they do I would put car on ground again check wheel bolts are tightened correctly and go for a road test using foot and hand brake off and on a few times, when you get back check for any wheel feeling hotter than the others indicating a brake binding, if not then hopefully that side should be good for Mot retest.
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Ok, i went out to the car and pumped the pedal lots of time. What with the rain i couldn't hear any tinking from self adjusters - if there was any. The pedal brakes themselves are hard, and while theres nobody around to press on them while i test, i don't have any reason to believe they aren't in perfect condition.
Onto the handbrake and i tightened it up, i was able adjust the tension on the equalizer bar so that both drums were free running on zero clicks then "bit" on 1 click so hard i could no longer move the hubs. The handbrake cables as viewed when i pull on the lever do appear to be moving the same distance, albeit the equalizer bar at a slight angle. I can remember in the past pulling on the lever and the driver side would bite on 1 click and the other on 3 clicks. So this problem is fixed?
The exact cable path underneath is a red herring it seems. I will post pictures though at some point, because i don't want to leave a cable hanging. And i'll have to repair with a cable tie which might not look pretty
Just waiting for the rain to ease, its not going to stop, so i need to judge the amount of rain to avoid needing fish gills, just like i need to judge the amount of tension in that equalizer bar
Onto the handbrake and i tightened it up, i was able adjust the tension on the equalizer bar so that both drums were free running on zero clicks then "bit" on 1 click so hard i could no longer move the hubs. The handbrake cables as viewed when i pull on the lever do appear to be moving the same distance, albeit the equalizer bar at a slight angle. I can remember in the past pulling on the lever and the driver side would bite on 1 click and the other on 3 clicks. So this problem is fixed?
The exact cable path underneath is a red herring it seems. I will post pictures though at some point, because i don't want to leave a cable hanging. And i'll have to repair with a cable tie which might not look pretty
Just waiting for the rain to ease, its not going to stop, so i need to judge the amount of rain to avoid needing fish gills, just like i need to judge the amount of tension in that equalizer bar
before you tightened the cable nut in the car how far did the hand brake pull up?
You should NOT have adjusted the nut in car past taking out the slack until trying the hand brake lever to see if it was acceptable
Remember test fail was for excesive binding offside service brake....so dont over tighten cable!
You should NOT have adjusted the nut in car past taking out the slack until trying the hand brake lever to see if it was acceptable
Remember test fail was for excesive binding offside service brake....so dont over tighten cable!
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Currently Its not "right" but probably good enough for mot test pass , provided the service brake binding is no longer present after a test drive- that may be ok a big WIN for you at moment
Now if both cables being pulled the same amount and having equal effect on drums I would say self adjusters are working
Now if both cables being pulled the same amount and having equal effect on drums I would say self adjusters are working
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I always descent a hill for a short distance with the handbrake slightly pulled (two clicks) in order to clean the brakes before a MOT.
Maybe not extremly necessary with drum brakes, but with disk brakes it kind of helps. Also burns of any residual brake cleaner or other slimy substance that happens to have collected on the braking surfaces. Just don't overdo it and permanently "glaze" your brake shoes because of extreme heat.
It's also interesting to see whether both brakes seize at the same instant or not. But you can't do this in traffic, I do those more aggressive tests on a Sunday in an empty industrial park with large roads and nobody around.
...and don't yank it too hard ;-)
Maybe not extremly necessary with drum brakes, but with disk brakes it kind of helps. Also burns of any residual brake cleaner or other slimy substance that happens to have collected on the braking surfaces. Just don't overdo it and permanently "glaze" your brake shoes because of extreme heat.
It's also interesting to see whether both brakes seize at the same instant or not. But you can't do this in traffic, I do those more aggressive tests on a Sunday in an empty industrial park with large roads and nobody around.
...and don't yank it too hard ;-)
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
They are not that bad... I ve had worse pass the MOT, but they clearly need doing. T cut is no good, its not near aggressive enough. Lits of effort and if anything it makes things worse. It gets into crevices and fills them and its just not the product for this job. Headlightare ploycarbonate type material and its very hard. Crazing requires removal of a tenth to half a mm so something harder and coarser is needed. Ive done headlights that are worse than this and brought then back to life. You can get a rotary polisher pad for an electric drill off eBAy for about £6. A proper kit would come with polish but best use a 2500 or 3000 sanding disc very lightly to get the worst off but this would require taking the lights out of the car to get the right angles and treat the edges of the lamps without damaging paint.
I used chrome polish and coarse cutting compound and a lot of elbow grease. A polishing pad 40-60mm diameter would speed up the process no end.
If you use mechanical tools you must remember that you are heating up plastic while cutting and polishing, so go gently use plenty of polish and keep the surface well lubricated with water. Keep moving aroind and dont overheat any spots. Once the crazing is gone change to a medium grade polish and then a fine things like Farecle G3 are very good. Farecla polish works ots magic and then breaks down and disapperars as you go. With time and effort the lenses will come back to perfection. I treated my polimhed lenses with silicon paint sealant and now use Autoglym Gold sealant on them regularly. It seens to work as they stay bright. Doing our Micra by hand took an afternoon. It was MUCH worse than yours. It would be quicker to remove the lamps and use a mop or drill polishing pad. If you use a drill pad, set the speed low to start with while you see how it goes.
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