The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I think these look spot on.
Technical Failed MOT
- Thread starter AnthonyH
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Technical
Failed MOT
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
What you mean..... Is, that, same as me, you cant lift it any more, at least not with one hand and if you do lift it there is an extreme risk of falling over. Its no use pretending a couple of cans of red bull and you can fly with it! LOLIs this so you can boast you have a bigger one than me?
Seriously I used it all the time when working, with that sort of weight and a good accurate swing it will soon crack taper joints on suspension/track rod ends etc. Remember I also worked on some quite large vans and trucks over the years as well as cars.
Mind you equally so, if not accurate it can break things so they do need a lot of practice, trouble is at 72 my upper body strength is not what it used to be.
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The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Run away and never go back....With good reason...
The right handbrake cable hasn't gone on yet, problems, but when i checked it didn't look like it was going to solve the problem, so i went to the left hand side and found this...
View attachment 479910
View attachment 479911
This is a fixed bracket on the rear axle that holds the left handbrake cable.
How do i fix this?
Despair
OP
OP
So i tightened everything up underneath and cable tied the broken bracket like this, do you think it is acceptable?
I put the road wheels back on and now i can hear a tink coming from one of the hubs when i engage the handbrake
It sounds like this;
The equalizer bar in the cabin is more or less even. The handbrake disengages for both wheels when the handbrake is off, but engages a little differently, stronger on one wheel than the other, but is rock solid by click 3.
I put the road wheels back on and now i can hear a tink coming from one of the hubs when i engage the handbrake
It sounds like this;
The equalizer bar in the cabin is more or less even. The handbrake disengages for both wheels when the handbrake is off, but engages a little differently, stronger on one wheel than the other, but is rock solid by click 3.
Over time, plastic will yield to repeated mechanical stresses by deforming itself. I wonder if your plastic binder can be considered a "permanent solution", will it actually stay on? Why not use a hose clamp which you could bend a little so it fits
Hi,
I see what you are saying.
My car has had cable tie retaining hand brake cable for 7years never problem passing inspection in uk. There is very little load on tie and it hasnt deformed at all.
Best wishes
Jack
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Nope. That's not acceptable. It will spoil the handbrake (cable shield is not secure, mounting point not stiff enough).
In theory it should fail the MOT (due to corrosion and improper - not factory - cable mount, using hose clamps etc.).
Means: rear axle job (mounts/brackets, whatever you call it).
Or you could attempt to repair the cable mounts, welding (risky, fuel tank is close).
In theory it should fail the MOT (due to corrosion and improper - not factory - cable mount, using hose clamps etc.).
Means: rear axle job (mounts/brackets, whatever you call it).
Or you could attempt to repair the cable mounts, welding (risky, fuel tank is close).
OP
OP
I have some hose clamps, and metal cable ties, so i could try those.
OP
OP
I asked whether cable ties would get this passed the MOT tester, and the other posters said "yes". I was aware it might need spot welding, but don't have the welder at this time.
In uk cable tie is fine
OP
OP
Regarding "the ding" when i engaged the handbrake, i took the wheel and drum off again, and i could see that the handbrake stop wasn't in its proper place.
I think possibly when i put that self adjuster on that wheel i put it on too tight, and now i might have to back it off, and destroy some adjusters lol. As far as i know, self adjusters are one way, tighten only.
I'm currently sheltering from the rain.
Looking on the bright side...at least the equalizer bar is equal now....
I think possibly when i put that self adjuster on that wheel i put it on too tight, and now i might have to back it off, and destroy some adjusters lol. As far as i know, self adjusters are one way, tighten only.
I'm currently sheltering from the rain.
Looking on the bright side...at least the equalizer bar is equal now....
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Test the brakes and report back (where are you on the graph - good brakes should be around 10% or lower, all 3: front, rear, handbrake).
As for rear axle mounts, here is an example DIY repair. Sandblasting is ideal for such rusty parts.
Easiest repair is small welds, spots, just re-attach broken bits.
Or reinforce it, make a patch.
Sandblasting doesn't help when parts are rusty. Welds are porous (no matter what you do, welding metod - this was TIG). Primer coat.
Put some quality, durable paint (coating), 2K (paint + hardener).
This should pass the "MOT" in other countries (with more strict rules). If not, you buy and install brand new ones.
As for rear axle mounts, here is an example DIY repair. Sandblasting is ideal for such rusty parts.
Easiest repair is small welds, spots, just re-attach broken bits.
Or reinforce it, make a patch.
Sandblasting doesn't help when parts are rusty. Welds are porous (no matter what you do, welding metod - this was TIG). Primer coat.
Put some quality, durable paint (coating), 2K (paint + hardener).
This should pass the "MOT" in other countries (with more strict rules). If not, you buy and install brand new ones.
Greasytrucker
Prominent member
Lot of hassle for a near end of life £500 Punto though isn’t it? 10p cable tie and 2 minutes work = job doneTest the brakes and report back (where are you on the graph - good brakes should be around 10% or lower, all 3: front, rear, handbrake).
As for rear axle mounts, here is an example DIY repair. Sandblasting is ideal for such rusty parts.
View attachment 480026
Easiest repair is small welds, spots, just re-attach broken bits.
View attachment 480027
Or reinforce it, make a patch.
View attachment 480028
Sandblasting doesn't help when parts are rusty. Welds are porous (no matter what you do, welding metod - this was TIG). Primer coat.
View attachment 480029
Put some quality, durable paint (coating), 2K (paint + hardener).
View attachment 480030
This should pass the "MOT" in other countries (with more strict rules). If not, you buy and install brand new ones.
View attachment 480031
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It's about doing good job, good habits. How to handle repairs in the future (in the next car, better one, worth more than "Punto").
This particular rusty Grande/Evo, whatever? Yeah, put a zip-tie and pass the MOT (maybe, will see).
This particular rusty Grande/Evo, whatever? Yeah, put a zip-tie and pass the MOT (maybe, will see).
OP
OP
Thaty is very informative and helpful. Its quite possible that i'll fail on that bracket, i just have to hope not!. I saw your graph in an earlier post, i think you asked the question am i the oly one to make such a graph, and probably because its very good. it told me i probably need a new self adjuster. And now i know how to fix the bracket if i have to weld it.Test the brakes and report back (where are you on the graph - good brakes should be around 10% or lower, all 3: front, rear, handbrake).
As for rear axle mounts, here is an example DIY repair. Sandblasting is ideal for such rusty parts.
View attachment 480026
Easiest repair is small welds, spots, just re-attach broken bits.
View attachment 480027
Or reinforce it, make a patch.
View attachment 480028
Sandblasting doesn't help when parts are rusty. Welds are porous (no matter what you do, welding metod - this was TIG). Primer coat.
View attachment 480029
Put some quality, durable paint (coating), 2K (paint + hardener).
View attachment 480030
This should pass the "MOT" in other countries (with more strict rules). If not, you buy and install brand new ones.
View attachment 480031
Greasytrucker
Prominent member
Yes totally agree on a higher value car that’s got 10+ years life left but it’s Anthony’s project car so it’s about keeping it on the road on a budget
OP
OP
So i've done this, any better?
I'm still considering whether to use a metal cable tie, it will make it more obvious, but would last a lot longer.
I'm still considering whether to use a metal cable tie, it will make it more obvious, but would last a lot longer.
Leave it as it is, if Tester unhappy then ask him to put a clip around it if he wants.
OP
OP
Righto.
So that just leaves the self adjuster problem now lol. Its too dark for that, so i'll have to try tomorrow, i can't see myself getting it sorted so it'll fail again, or else i won't take it. I have 2 new self adjusters, so worth a try anyway...
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