Technical Driving Grande Punto with faulty strut mount

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Technical Driving Grande Punto with faulty strut mount

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One of my Puntos has a faulty strut mount bearing. When I turn the steering wheel it makes a characteristic pinging noise on the coil.

So what are the downsides to just leaving it? Is it dangerous? or just going to wear out other parts of the car quicker?
 
The spring is 2 years old, I presume that won't make any difference to your advice?!

The issue is that I'll have to fix it myself, and as a DIY mechanic, it doesn't look so easy!
 
Hi, it is a cheap buy and time consuming but worthwhile job. @The Panda Nut is correct to point out spring damage as this happened to me!! 🤦‍♂️
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Yes it is dangerous. Potential steering seizure, possible fracturing of the spring. Get it sorted straight way the job is small and the parts are cheap. Tyre wear too. Its less than teh cost of a tyre to do this.

Tyre wear..
Not so sure on that.. 🤔

Last year I had to change broken springs on 3 of my 4 FIATs

The Grande spring was a year old with 1 year old bearings

TBH I think it's the "luck of the draw"

But if they are notchy it's obviously not ideal.

Plenty of info on here..

I have 2 sets of spring compressors

And a Battery "rattle gun". It does save a Lot of grief

Worth changing an elderly drooling at this point too 🙂
 
Depending on how worried you are I normally just look on fleebay for a decent looking complete unit and swap the whole lot, saves messing about with spring compressors etc. just make sure it’s the same rating spring if you do though. Depends on how old your front shocks are I suppose
 
I will be changing the strut mount as soon as practical. I can imagine I'll have a lot of problems with it, but as I'm doing this for recreation that's part of the fun eh?! :)

I've compiled a list of big problems to look out for;
  • Be carful with the spring i.e. buy a tool and rope it up as well.
  • Don't let the transmission drop, must be propped securely.
  • Maybe the drop link will have to be cut off.
  • Don't let the strut drop out
Both coils are newish, so I'm just going to replace the one faulty strut mount (unless their is a coil break I can't currently see).

What is a Battery "rattle gun"?



I find the one at 4 minutes 50 seconds particularly amusing.
 
Last edited:
Dont worry, we are here to help you... I am adding one picture to make your life easier. You will find your assembly in it.

To get it out of the car, first undo the bottom 2 screws and nuts, in picture these are parts 7 & 8, but two of this. When you will be fitting this back, it will make your life easier if you will be having both front wheels lifted from ground - Not only one.

The next thing is to unhook the breakpipe out of its holder.

Then open the hood. You will need to undu the upper nut now - num 10 in pic. No worries if you do it, spring wont explode yet. But it will be hard to unscrew it for you... In middle of the bolt you will find a hex slot for inbus key to prevent the whole piston from rotating while you will want to rotate the nut - make sure you firstly put some good penetratig fluid meant for making unscrewing easier... But still this can make the hex slot circular... This is why many people above are mentioning one gun .. proper expression is inpact wrench, because this tool is making rotational inpacts you do not need to hold the other part yourself.. you just put there your gun and press the button..

Anyway lets continue - for next step you need to buy spring compressor tool - it costs around 20€... Please dont use ropes or a vice or anything else that is not meant for this job... This spring has great tendency of bending out in middle if inproper holder used. If this happens, great force is relised and it could be the end of somebodiey life... So spending 20€ isnt bad here...

After the spring is compresed unscrew nut number 6. And your part with bearing inside will be possible to get off.. this is part number 1. The bearing is inside of this number 1. You can only change the bearing inside or you can get the whole number 1 new. Also take care when releasing the spring if all 3 pieces are in same aligment. Because when you squeeze the spring, you can rotate all 3 differently, namely the strout, the spring, and the top cap with bearing. In rotational manner you should put them back in the same...

Funny note: when the car is in air its normal that the part num 9 is squized down to the chassis and when you put the car on the ground it is not - its actually few mm in air, looking like its loose, but it isnt, that gap is so it can spin around without friction.

Report if you come accross any issues
 

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Depending on how worried you are I normally just look on fleebay for a decent looking complete unit and swap the whole lot, saves messing about with spring compressors etc. just make sure it’s the same rating spring if you do though. Depends on how old your front shocks are I suppose
I'd advise against unless swapping the pair - still dodgy as some cowboy cold have done work on one side and not the other.

Overall, top mount bearings are relatively low risk, more annoying than dangerous, even if they fail the steering gets a bit stiff.
 
I'd advise against unless swapping the pair - still dodgy as some cowboy cold have done work on one side and not the other.

Overall, top mount bearings are relatively low risk, more annoying than dangerous, even if they fail the steering gets a bit stiff.
Hence why i said “depends on how worried you are”. If it’s just a work commuter then cost and time might be a factor. If it’s the main family car then yes do it in pairs to be safe. I personally have never had a problem fitting a used complete unit, you just have to use bangornomics common sense
 
Dont worry, we are here to help you... I am adding one picture to make your life easier. You will find your assembly in it.

To get it out of the car, first undo the bottom 2 screws and nuts, in picture these are parts 7 & 8, but two of this. When you will be fitting this back, it will make your life easier if you will be having both front wheels lifted from ground - Not only one.

That is a very good idea. Having those nuts in any way compressed will make them really tought to remove.

The next thing is to unhook the breakpipe out of its holder.

Then open the hood. You will need to undu the upper nut now - num 10 in pic. No worries if you do it, spring wont explode yet. But it will be hard to unscrew it for you... In middle of the bolt you will find a hex slot for inbus key to prevent the whole piston from rotating while you will want to rotate the nut - make sure you firstly put some good penetratig fluid meant for making unscrewing easier... But still this can make the hex slot circular... This is why many people above are mentioning one gun .. proper expression is inpact wrench, because this tool is making rotational inpacts you do not need to hold the other part yourself.. you just put there your gun and press the button..

I'll do that. I will probably need to buy a hex tool for this.

Anyway lets continue - for next step you need to buy spring compressor tool - it costs around 20€... Please dont use ropes or a vice or anything else that is not meant for this job... This spring has great tendency of bending out in middle if inproper holder used. If this happens, great force is relised and it could be the end of somebodiey life... So spending 20€ isnt bad here...

I will be careful I don't currently have the metal compressor tool but I've seen them in a local shop or I can get them online.

After the spring is compresed unscrew nut number 6. And your part with bearing inside will be possible to get off.. this is part number 1. The bearing is inside of this number 1. You can only change the bearing inside or you can get the whole number 1 new. Also take care when releasing the spring if all 3 pieces are in same aligment. Because when you squeeze the spring, you can rotate all 3 differently, namely the strout, the spring, and the top cap with bearing. In rotational manner you should put them back in the same...

Funny note: when the car is in air its normal that the part num 9 is squized down to the chassis and when you put the car on the ground it is not - its actually few mm in air, looking like its loose, but it isnt, that gap is so it can spin around without friction.

Report if you come accross any issues

Thanks for the helpful post.
 
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