tools you will need;
Trolley jack (2)
Axle stands x 2
Set of Metric Allen Keys
Set of Torx bits / keys
good selection of Metric Sockets / Spanners
including the "odd" 11 / 15 / 16,
a set / pair of "spring compressors" ( 2)
a Hacksaw / angle grinder
also a pair of replacement Dampers , and a pair of new Droplinks.
If you want to , you could also order NEW ;
rubber boot / sleeves for the Dampers,
and top swivel Joint / Bearings.
OK - on with the Job
Raise up the front of the car,
with the front wheel nuts/BOLTS slackened ,
the vehicle securely planted on Axlestands / ramps, etc.
Remove both front road wheels,
apply Plusgas / release agent to the threads of the droplink bolts AND the suspension Pinch bolts on the top of the Hub = Pictured
Remove the Nut from the stud / pinch bolt of the Drop link - there will be a socket in the end of the "stud" to make it like an "Allen-bolt / Grubscrew",
these can be either HEX - or Torx,
try and select the best fit.. as there will be a LOT of Torque through this as you undo the nut,
IF ( when) the socket "rounds out" you will have no alternative but to cut through the Stud of the droplink - I used an angle grinder..BUT a hacksaw will suffice..,
remove both the upper and lower nuts from the Droplink and remove it from the suspension strut.
1st part over
Strut Removal.
place a Jack / pile of wood , under the Hub / Brake disc.
Slacken off the 2 Nut + Bolt sets that tie the Hub to the Damper ( Tight)
leave bolts in situ.
Under bonnet, undo the Nut around the Top of the damper head
( this was Tight + Awkward - needing a "deep" spanner)
wind off the Nut - holding the stud still with the Key = BEWARE = the weight of the whole unit sits on this..!!
Slowly / carefully remove this , and lower the damper assembly
TAKE note of the TOP mount plates orientation ( offset..!!)
then withdraw the 2 x bolts on the hub and you can then withdraw the complete assembly.
Trolley jack (2)
Axle stands x 2
Set of Metric Allen Keys
Set of Torx bits / keys
good selection of Metric Sockets / Spanners
including the "odd" 11 / 15 / 16,
a set / pair of "spring compressors" ( 2)
a Hacksaw / angle grinder
also a pair of replacement Dampers , and a pair of new Droplinks.
If you want to , you could also order NEW ;
rubber boot / sleeves for the Dampers,
and top swivel Joint / Bearings.
OK - on with the Job
Raise up the front of the car,
with the front wheel nuts/BOLTS slackened ,
the vehicle securely planted on Axlestands / ramps, etc.
Remove both front road wheels,
apply Plusgas / release agent to the threads of the droplink bolts AND the suspension Pinch bolts on the top of the Hub = Pictured
Remove the Nut from the stud / pinch bolt of the Drop link - there will be a socket in the end of the "stud" to make it like an "Allen-bolt / Grubscrew",
these can be either HEX - or Torx,
try and select the best fit.. as there will be a LOT of Torque through this as you undo the nut,
IF ( when) the socket "rounds out" you will have no alternative but to cut through the Stud of the droplink - I used an angle grinder..BUT a hacksaw will suffice..,
remove both the upper and lower nuts from the Droplink and remove it from the suspension strut.
1st part over
Strut Removal.
place a Jack / pile of wood , under the Hub / Brake disc.
Slacken off the 2 Nut + Bolt sets that tie the Hub to the Damper ( Tight)
leave bolts in situ.
Under bonnet, undo the Nut around the Top of the damper head
( this was Tight + Awkward - needing a "deep" spanner)
wind off the Nut - holding the stud still with the Key = BEWARE = the weight of the whole unit sits on this..!!
Slowly / carefully remove this , and lower the damper assembly
TAKE note of the TOP mount plates orientation ( offset..!!)
then withdraw the 2 x bolts on the hub and you can then withdraw the complete assembly.
- Next page: changing dampers
