Ah right, in that case I'll go for the 30fps ones again as can't fault my current one TBH
cheap dash cam?
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cheap dash cam?
Ah right, in that case I'll go for the 30fps ones again as can't fault my current one TBH
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Ah right, in that case I'll go for the 30fps ones again as can't fault my current one TBH
well it was on the 1 link i found ages ago for the 60fps
it said on it - we have the firmware update for it
So i think they were 30fps camera just reflashed.... probably didnt work well enough
tempted to get 2x camera's
One for me and 1 for the missus
Ziggy
eBay have tripple nectar point on until 26th for me for anything brought in car parts / accessories.
Going to get 4 idealy, one for mum and sister, upgrade for dad (all christmas presents) and on for the Classic Panda. Now seems as good a time as any
Not sure if to get mum and sister the little units with no screen though as ultimately theirs are going to be fit and forget until called upon in the even of an incident. I don't think mum and sister would cope with a screen and flashing lights at night.
However I'd still prefer a front and rear camera setup for them :shrug:
I noticed a good tip for these cameras t'other day.
Drop your courtesy light from the roof and fit the power adapter in there, powered off the 12v source. Then you can wire down towards the mirror a lot easier than from the middle of the dash upwards through the sides.
Seems like a good idea.
Drop your courtesy light from the roof and fit the power adapter in there, powered off the 12v source. Then you can wire down towards the mirror a lot easier than from the middle of the dash upwards through the sides.
Seems like a good idea.
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erm my 12v socket isn't on the roof....
And a long enough cable means it goes around the window and hidden away - no issues
ziggy
AS15 has proved to be no better than the Mobius in low light conditions (otherwise superior).
I've even built a whole new drone around it.
For most of you chaps a number plate is probably all you need to decipher, however all these el cheapo cams seem inferior to the Mob in my experience. Rear view cam could sure be useful though...
I've even built a whole new drone around it.
For most of you chaps a number plate is probably all you need to decipher, however all these el cheapo cams seem inferior to the Mob in my experience. Rear view cam could sure be useful though...
That isn't a switched feed though, and often the power plugs have transformers inside etc so not always sound to just chop the lead off.
Yeah
it will be the battery.. replace it with another li-on battery. something from out of an old phone. or pick them up on ebay. will work after
also in the settings turn all the lights off on it (tap the power button while its recording) and change the back light so it turns off after 15 seconds.
some of the tricks i had to do with mine...
Right so I've given up with turning the camera on every couple of minutes, took it apart and all seems 'ok' So I'm going to try a phone battery once I've figured out how to connect it securely!
as for now I'm using my DriftHD camera.. doesn't support my rear camera though
Recently had a problem with mine running for just a few seconds then turning itself off.
Turned out to be a problem with the USB sockets on my extension.
I use a 12v adaptor with 2x12 sockets and 2 USB sockets. (The wire is chopped and connected via a timer to allow for the power loss when the engine is turned over).
Plugged a second extension lead into the first & use the USB sockets out of this second lead.
Strange thing is, this is a 'set and forget' system. Since setting up, I have never touched the wires (aside from plugging one end into the phone) so wondering how comes, all of a sudden, both USB sockets on the 1st lead suddenly start playing up?
Just got to find time to unhook the first lead from the timer and wire the second directly into it.
OH reckons I should dump the lead, but I can't simply throw it away without first seeing if I can repair it (it's a (Yorkshire)man thing)
Turned out to be a problem with the USB sockets on my extension.
I use a 12v adaptor with 2x12 sockets and 2 USB sockets. (The wire is chopped and connected via a timer to allow for the power loss when the engine is turned over).
Plugged a second extension lead into the first & use the USB sockets out of this second lead.
Strange thing is, this is a 'set and forget' system. Since setting up, I have never touched the wires (aside from plugging one end into the phone) so wondering how comes, all of a sudden, both USB sockets on the 1st lead suddenly start playing up?
Just got to find time to unhook the first lead from the timer and wire the second directly into it.
OH reckons I should dump the lead, but I can't simply throw it away without first seeing if I can repair it (it's a (Yorkshire)man thing
)If its not a switched feed then its a good place to take one to then the psu/DC-DC converter can fit up there, seems to be loads of room.
Methinks I'll research how to get the light off and investigate.
I found the battery for my camera that I thought I had lost months ago and am looking to reinstall it.
Methinks I'll research how to get the light off and investigate.
I found the battery for my camera that I thought I had lost months ago and am looking to reinstall it.
the mrs wants descreet as possible like the ACT20 (but wants a MUCH SMALLER mount) for her Coupe, I want one for the Stilo.
Has to have preferably 1080p/30 FPS, decent night capabilities (Low lux sensor or IR lighting), timestamp, continuous recording, expansion slot, auto on/off with ign and motion sensor recording.
not fussed about output file format, audio capabilities, GPS, or any of the rest of the fangled options(although wont rule them out). will pay upto £100-150 for the right one.
any suggestions/recommendations?
Has to have preferably 1080p/30 FPS, decent night capabilities (Low lux sensor or IR lighting), timestamp, continuous recording, expansion slot, auto on/off with ign and motion sensor recording.
not fussed about output file format, audio capabilities, GPS, or any of the rest of the fangled options(although wont rule them out). will pay upto £100-150 for the right one.
any suggestions/recommendations?
Thinking about it - why would I want a switched feed?
And I said nowt about cutting off the lead, the psu would be one that contained the electronics, transformers are not used -just transistors.
Given that there is loads of room up there (I removed my light and had a look - a nice hidey hole) if the feed is upto the job (it appears to be, if its a permanent 12v) then its only a few inches away from the mirror and as my camera is mounted behind it - this appears to be an ideal place to hide a power supply.
With the evo power socket in a stupid place right in front of the gearstick - anything using that is in the way.
Now I just want to find a suitable 2amp+ power supply.
EDIT: found one
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More likely a switching or a linear regulator, some filter caps and maybe a few inductors actually. Transistors are mainly used on AC to DC switchers and step up supplies which also contain small transformers, but now we're are just being picky...
I guess if we went down to silicone level they contain transistors, however one could argue that an inductor is also half of a transformer.
Just thought I'd add that piece of useless information, please continue.
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here is what i had to do to mine to fix it:
now it just records when it detects movement, but at the same time as soon as the ignition is turned on it turns back into a standard dash cam.
it now works so well
now it just records when it detects movement, but at the same time as soon as the ignition is turned on it turns back into a standard dash cam.
it now works so well
well they have a new one.. dont know if its improved. this one is the 720p the new one is 1080p.
sadly most dash cams have this fault. i have bought quite a few "dual cam" dash cams all different models and they all have this cutting out fault when the camera gets a little old.
i guess its just one of those things with these cheap dash cams
sadly most dash cams have this fault. i have bought quite a few "dual cam" dash cams all different models and they all have this cutting out fault when the camera gets a little old.
i guess its just one of those things with these cheap dash cams
What problem
No issues with the 4 I've purchased.
3 of these in the family & only the newer (60fps) camera has a problem (and even then - it's simply grainy recording of the rear cam - so still useable.
I was trying to get 60fps units, seem to have been pulled everywhere in favor of the 30fps units though, not sure if its due to a high number of issues they were having?
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i remember reading on a ebay advert that its just a firmware upgrade that allowed the 60fps, so i wonder if the "firmware" wasn't suitable for the 60fps, ie it just double the 30fps to make 60fps?
Im still looking at the dual camera setup tho
The f70 is smaller then its borther the f90, but the f90 is 1080P (but @20fps tho
)think i should settle for 720p, as its all i want
Price - size - dual lens, etc all there
Ziggy
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