Technical changing plugs

[Richard1940]

Hi All
Trying to change my spark plugs and cannot remove leads.
Has anybody any tips or tricks for this operation. Sounds so silly not being able to remove them, but I'm frightened of pulling out the cable from the top.
Can just grasp the rubber surround, but do not seem able to pull with enough power to get them off..
Any help appreciated.
Richard

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi Richard

Not an uncommon problem..

They can get VERY snug

There are proper pliers designed for this very purpose..

But in the moment..I just tend to TWIST the rubber boot around .rather than a straight pull

Once it is rotating..
You can try a twisting pull

Charlie

 

[Richard1940]

Thanks, will try that when my head is next under the bonnet, although I think I did twist them, but perhaps not pull at the same time. I think that the two in the middle will be a real problem, can hardly get a grip at all.
Richard

 

[DaveMcT]

Twist and pull them off but be prepared to need new leads. ACF-50 or silicone grease are ideal for when you put them back on.

New leads are not silly money https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=926 But don't get caught by the minimum order value. Some oil or coolant will top up the costs.

By the way, coils are under £12 each. It's worth keeping a spare pair just in case.
https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=987

 

[Richard1940]

Dave,
Thanks for that ——seems to get more involved the more I do!

Richard

 

[portland_bill]

They do tend to grow on. As said above, some silicon grease in the boots when replacing them helps, but even then they tend to self-destruct each time they're removed. I keep a set in the garage.

I have had a set of the Magnetti Marelli ones, from Shop4parts. They were disappointing, and fell apart even sooner then the originals. I now only fit the NGK ones. Some suppliers list two different sets, you need the ones with two different boots, not all the same. I have some of the special pliers, makes the job easier, but still often destroy the leads.

Buy new leads, then pull, heave, swear, cut them off, whatever. Bin the old ones, fit the new with silicon grease, feel pleased, then repeat next time.

 

[Richard1940]

Thanks, I’m sure there will be lots of swearing, there usually is!

 

[portland_bill]

Carefully disconnect the injector wiring plugs, and move them aside. Prevents damage.
There's a little wire clip. This gets squeezed inwards, towards the rest of the connector, just a little, and releases the connector. Don't pull the wire clip out, they go 'ping' and fly away. They hide very well.

 

[nei12000]

Carefully disconnect the injector wiring plugs, and move them aside. Prevents damage.
There's a little wire clip. This gets squeezed inwards, towards the rest of the connector, just a little, and releases the connector. Don't pull the wire clip out, they go 'ping' and fly away. They hide very well.

That's a top tip! I've been pulling the clips with a pair of pliers and screwdriver hoping they don't ping off into orbit, my next plug change will be a lot less sweary!

 

[jrkitching]

Another tip is to put a universal joint next to the plug socket, then a short extension bar; this gives you the slight angle you need to get everything lined up without having to disconnect or remove anything else.

On the later Euro5 1.2 with the single coil pack on top of the engine, it's worth unbolting the coil pack and swinging it out of the way; this only takes a minute or two and improves access considerably - this is particularly relevant if doing the job on a 500.

Given the low torque required, a 3/8" drive system gives you a little more finesse, but it's by no means essential.

Access is a little more awkward than, say, a 1980's Ford, but with the correct tools, is straightforward enough.

If you fit Iridium replacements, you'll likely only have to do the job once; they're good for at least 60K.

 

[koalar]

I have just been working on a 2010 eco dynamic


on that car neither moving the coil pack, or injector connectors will gain better access, plug socket and straight extension is all that I used. 10mm socket is also needed for the air filter


cylinder 2 and 3 aren't. too bad. But cylinders 1 and 4 are lower down leaving less to grip hold off.


still not too bad if you do this sort of thing regularly. But if you dont have hand strength I think spark plug boot terminal pliers

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I have just been working on a 2010 eco dynamic


on that car neither moving the coil pack, or injector connectors will gain better access, plug socket and straight extension is all that I used. 10mm socket is also needed for the air filter


cylinder 2 and 3 aren't. too bad. But cylinders 1 and 4 are lower down leaving less to grip hold off.


still not too bad if you do this sort of thing regularly. But if you dont have hand strength I think spark plug boot terminal pliers

Agreed. There's no point in moving the coils on the Dynamic Eco as they are on the end of the head. I find the leads on our Panda Dynamic Eco, whilst a bit tight to get moving, are not too bad to do however, the leads on my boy's 2012 1.4 8 valve Punto Easy were so tight I destroyed two of the ends first time I removed them. Bought and fitted new leads with silicon grease applied to the boots but partly damaged the No4 boot on next removal due to it being such a tight fit! seems to be running Ok though - no misfires - but I'll fit another new set next service.

I've never owned a dedicated plug lead removing tool. Anyone know if there's one which works especially well on the 8 valve engines?

 

[portland_bill]

I've never owned a dedicated plug lead removing tool. Anyone know if there's one which works especially well on the 8 valve engines?

I've got some like this: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/automot...wZvGwdk59QCdTr2VFrc_8F-v3Xv8_6cBoCUbQQAvD_BwE
But, because they are pliers, they don't open/close parallel, so are not as good as they look. But better than struggling, and reduce the swearing a little.

I think these might work better, tempted to get some: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kraftmann-...90&hvtargid=pla-423198311035&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

[koalar]

Agreed. There's no point in moving the coils on the Dynamic Eco as they are on the end of the head. I find the leads on our Panda Dynamic Eco, whilst a bit tight to get moving, are not too bad to do however, the leads on my boy's 2012 1.4 8 valve Punto Easy were so tight I destroyed two of the ends first time I removed them. Bought and fitted new leads with silicon grease applied to the boots but partly damaged the No4 boot on next removal due to it being such a tight fit! seems to be running Ok though - no misfires - but I'll fit another new set next service.

I've never owned a dedicated plug lead removing tool. Anyone know if there's one which works especially well on the 8 valve engines?

mine are on on top sandwiched under the air filter


it's towards the back but doesn't overhang or impede access if you unplug from here first


I dont own a plug lead removal tool. I have seen one being used at a garage. A quick Google didn't find the exact one. It was very efficient. The car he was working on the leads were well down the back of the engine.

 

[koalar]

these are similar to the ones I saw being used.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Boot-Pliers/Boot-Pliers-(Blue-Point)/SBP3

no doubt they will be much much cheaper elsewhere

 

[Richard1940]

I've got some like this: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/automot...wZvGwdk59QCdTr2VFrc_8F-v3Xv8_6cBoCUbQQAvD_BwE
But, because they are pliers, they don't open/close parallel, so are not as good as they look. But better than struggling, and reduce the swearing a little.

I think these might work better, tempted to get some: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kraftmann-...90&hvtargid=pla-423198311035&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

I have a pair of the Amazon ones on order, will let you know how I get on when they arrive.

 

[Richard1940]

I have a pair of the Amazon ones on order, will let you know how I get on when they arrive.

Mine came from eBay, slightly cheaper, but exactly the same. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203625283411
On first trying they couldn’t get a grip, just slid up. I filed the two ends, the with the help of a lump hammer and vice, closed the resulting gap and made the diameter of the hole smaller. That worked and managed to get all four plugs changed without too much trouble. So on the whole they were satisfactory, but as too whether they were better than the others mentioned I’m not sure, not having used any others.

Richard

 

[DaveMcT]

Don't forget to get a good quality spark plug socket long enough to reach. Broken spark plugs are a nightmare making them a good socket worth having even it only used once or twice per car.