Technical 3 years standing Panda 1.1 resurrection.

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Technical 3 years standing Panda 1.1 resurrection.

Richsvan

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Location
Bristol
HI I’ve a 2009 1.1 that I’m trying to get going. It’s my mothers car and it’s been sat unused for about 3 years and rarely used prior to that (sub 8k miles). The battery charged up ok, but I wouldn’t start as the starter had seized. I freed that off but it still won’t start. I did get it going with easy start spray but it ran really rough. My fault code reader gives the following codes P0460 and U1602.
Any tips appreciated as I’m keen to get this running and MOT’d.
Thanks
Rich
 
Too late know but for others following this route

The first thing to do is drain and change the oil

Then take the spark plugs out and carefully turn the engine over by hand before trying to start a car that's been standind

Change the fuel

Neither P0460 or U1602 are normally serious or would stop the car running

Probably just the petrol that's gone off or the pistons were seized and the belt has jumped
 
Thanks for the direction. Yes too late for those prechecks I’m afraid (bull in a china shop). Is there a handy tutorial on checking the timing on the forum. I don’t have a manual yet.
 
Thanks for the direction. Yes too late for those prechecks I’m afraid (bull in a china shop). Is there a handy tutorial on checking the timing on the forum. I don’t have a manual yet.
There's 3 different types of engine timing

2009 is on cusp between 2

Should be on the V5 tell us which engine
 
Last edited:
There's 3 different types of engine timing

2009 is on cusp between 2

Should be on the V5 tell us which engine

60hp or 69hp and we will point you to the correct instructions
I’ve got the V5 the max power is recorded as 40kW, not sure what that converts to as bhp. Additional info if it helps. Exact cc 1108, model Active Eco, engine No. 53387xx (I’ve subbed the last two digits for x’s) I hope that’s sufficient. Thanks again. Rich
 
I beleive yours is an evo2 engine

There's no timing marks it set with tools

Type B oil cap

Uses these

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169005925_2.jpg
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199002764_2.jpg
 
Thanks for that. A little annoying that there’s no marks and you need special tools especially as I expect it’s a job I’ll only do once. But I note that they’re not very dear on Amazon, so there’s a way forward. Cheers Rich
Especially as its just to check


The petrol will be unless you drain and replace
 
If the cam belt survived, the starter should make a more or less continuous sound. If it ramps up and down (fast, slow, fast, slow) you probably broke the timing belt. However, there's a lot on the forum for changing timing belts. It will need one regardless so do that anyway.

Before doing any more check the following -

Check the ignition coils for rust expanded core laminations. Rust will blow them apart and might be why it wont start.

Check the alternator for cracked casing - rust in the stator core expands seizes the alternator.

Check the sump pan for rust at the front. They commonly fail. Three years is more than enough to mess that up

Check the exhaust for rust. Joints and welds fail first.

Get an endoscope camera into the sills and box sections. It might be rusted out especially at the back near rear swing axle mounts and front bumper crush cans.

Rear axles rust. Scrape off loose rust especially at the spring pans. Treat with chain saw bar oil, thinned with white spirit.

Unless kept pumped up really hard, tyres are likely to be shot and wheels might be rusted at the seams.

Brakes will be rusted up. Front discs almost certainly need replacing. Rear drums might be ok.
 
If the cam belt survived, the starter should make a more or less continuous sound. If it ramps up and down (fast, slow, fast, slow) you probably broke the timing belt. However, there's a lot on the forum for changing timing belts. It will need one regardless so do that anyway.

Before doing any more check the following -

Check the ignition coils for rust expanded core laminations. Rust will blow them apart and might be why it wont start.

Check the alternator for cracked casing - rust in the stator core expands seizes the alternator.

Check the sump pan for rust at the front. They commonly fail. Three years is more than enough to mess that up

Check the exhaust for rust. Joints and welds fail first.

Get an endoscope camera into the sills and box sections. It might be rusted out especially at the back near rear swing axle mounts and front bumper crush cans.

Rear axles rust. Scrape off loose rust especially at the spring pans. Treat with chain saw bar oil, thinned with white spirit.

Unless kept pumped up really hard, tyres are likely to be shot and wheels might be rusted at the seams.

Brakes will be rusted up. Front discs almost certainly need replacing. Rear drums might be ok.
Lots of points to check there, thanks. The front brakes really do need replacement. The rear drums and shoes are fine, but one wheel cylinder was seized (sorted now). Wheels and tyres are fine. Rear axle just surface rust. Rear springs are rusty though. Sump very good condition. Will need to check the sill, looks ok from the outside though, but I may not have paid it enough attention. Exhaust looks quite rusty but didn’t notice any holes, will be easier to tell once the engine runs. I do need to change the boot on the lower ball joint as passenger side one is split. Also the front bush on the lower arm looks a little ragged.
 
Yes, but if major stuff is flatted/rusted, he might decide to not bother going any further.

Tyres and wheels would be a big enough hit.
Actually a good point. It’s a fine balance between fixing this car and disposing of it. It’s got a lot going for it 1 owner, full fiat service history (up until 3 years ago) and under 8 thousand miles. But also there are negatives, the biggest, that it doesn’t run, but also it’s red and has a major lacquer failure on the bumper, bonnet and roof. I like a challenge and like to think that I could get it running get it MoT’d and it could be worth a fair bit more than I’d get by disposing of it. But I don’t think I can risk spending too much on parts, as the end value would be restricted by the cosmetic s. The problem is that it’s at my parents house and I need to move it soon, so MOT is needed as otherwise transporting it would be another cost. At the moment it’s only cost me a battery charge, and the timing tool from Amazon.
 
Fresh fuel is on my list, any tips on the best way to drain the tank please? First thought was to siphon it from the filler, but don’t cars have anti siphon devices these days? It there another simple / safe way?
Disconnect the fuel line put it in a container, turn the ignition on, the pump will prime pumping the fuel out

Much easier than dropping the tank, or removing the pump

There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail but without the proper tool it's a pain to use
 
Or!!! Change the fuel
May be irrelevant but modern fuel does deteriorate faster than good old "leaded". A few years ago when fitting a Ducato diesel engine to replace the petrol V6 to my boat, I had to fit a new plastic tank as diesel and galvanised steel not compatible. The boat hadn't run since 1982 but after filtering the rust and water out I used the 10 gallons (45.4 litres?) of petrol in an old Fiat Uno, the result was much better performance than the current petrol station fuel we are used too.:)
 
The old leaded 4 Star was 97 octane and being 100% fossil origin had more energy per litre than modern fuels so cars benefitted 2x over.

Saying that, my uncle had an Austin Seven that refused to run without choke. He was about to strip the carburettor when I noticed the petrol smelled odd. Almost like paint thinners. He drained the tank and it ran fine on new petrol.
 
The right hand end of the injector rail has a quick release, push the two lugs in and pull the centre out

Ignore the fact my rail isn't bolted down


IMG_20230808_113650.jpg




Like this
IMG_20230808_113614.jpg


Put the end from the tank into a container and switch the ignition on
 
The right hand end of the injector rail has a quick release, push the two lugs in and pull the centre out

Ignore the fact my rail isn't bolted down


View attachment 427777



Like this
View attachment 427778

Put the end from the tank into a container and switch the ignition on
Thanks for the info, plenty of sage advice from you guys. Not every forum is so well stocked with knowledgeable folk. Also, not too judgemental. Anyway I’ve a 20l can and another 5l plastic can, so hopefully that should be sufficient (tbh I don’t recall how full it says it is on the gauge). I’ll take some plastic hose to link from the fuel pipe to the can. I’ll throw in some spare plugs. Timing tool comes tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll get the chance to look at it on Friday fingers crossed.
 
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