Technical 1.1 Panda Misfire.

Currently reading:
Technical 1.1 Panda Misfire.

itsamugsgame

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
29
Points
64
Hi all.
I have a 2010 1.1 Panda. It has started to Misfire & on closer inspection I can see that a spark is arcing from a plug lead at a coil pack. The spark appears to be jumping from inside the lead to the engine block.
I suspected the HT lead and replaced it with a new one but the problem remains.
Is this likely to be the coil pack or another dodgy lead?
Thanks..
 
Are you sure the plugs are okay, if it can't jump the gap the HT will find an alternative path, eventuly destroying the coil

Inspecting the pugs would be my first move, it's likely the gap is near 2mm, try swapping two plugs over

Doesn't the 1.1 2010 still use the two seperate coil packs on the right hand side of the engine

If so you could just swap them over and see if the fault transfers
 
Are you sure the plugs are okay, if it can't jump the gap the HT will find an alternative path, eventuly destroying the coil

Inspecting the pugs would be my first move, it's likely the gap is near 2mm, try swapping two plugs over

Doesn't the 1.1 2010 still use the two seperate coil packs on the right hand side of the engine

If so you could just swap them over and see if the fault transfers
You could be right.. I have just reset the plug gap ( it looked wide) and the misfire has gone & no arcing. I've given it a quick blast and it seems fine. 🤞
Many thanks..
 
Cool, great it fixed

Probably due a new set when funds allow the gap assuming they were correct is 0.8 or 1mm depending on brand, standard plugs increase the gap roughly. 0.1mm per 6000 miles and start to misfire in my experiance at around 1.8mm to 2mm so probably well past there best
 
Fiat Panda 169 1.1 with 187A1000 engine block, from experience, changes shape as it heats and cools. As a result, the four rubber seal between the air intake block and the engine block leaks air. This causes the engine to misfire, race on cold, and can be seen if one plugs in a reader where the Short Term Fuel value is in the positives and the Long term Fuel is at +10 or greater. They all should stay in the negatives.

I first changed the coil packs (£40-£60), the plugs and the leads where the engie behaved slightly better but was still missing power at high range. This yu will notice if you accelerate in 4th / 5th up to 80-100mph and then drop to 3rd. This will increase the revs to over 4500rpm. The ECU should restrict injectors at that stage to bring down the revs, but errors in leaks and this won't kick in.

If you check, you might see the rear of the engine below the air intake wet. Most assume that this is a head gasket issue, but it is the seals at each air intake to the block.

The solution is to replace these four seals.
 
Back
Top