clear with a bit of oil in it.
Technical Panda 1.1 2006 starting problem
- Thread starter barrycash
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Technical Panda 1.1 2006 starting problem
Sounds flooded, remove the fuel supple and it fires until the left over fuel is used up
What's the MAP sensor look like, covered in oil or mayo
You can leave the cable connected
Just undo the one torx screw
Maybe on the other side of the intake if it's a flyby wire throttle instead of cable
What's the MAP sensor look like, covered in oil or mayo
You can leave the cable connected
Just undo the one torx screw
Maybe on the other side of the intake if it's a flyby wire throttle instead of cable
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What colour are the spark plugs? All same colour? Be interesting to see a picture of them.
I have rechecked that the timing belt is set up correctly. I took the camshaft cover off so that I could see the valves and it's definitely set up correctly. With everything back together the engine won't start. But if I disconnect the plug for the fuel pump and level gauge at the fuel tank then the engine runs briefly! The error message recorded is Fuel level indicator circuit A, as expected. There is no mention in the manual of anything that check the fuel pressure and I cannot see anything that appears to do that on the car.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Don't we already the timing is okay as it runs
Isn't that just disconnecting the pipe at the other end
Unplug the wires going to fuel guage sender, yep its going to report the cuicuit isn't wotking
There isn't any thing on the pertrol
I have no idea at the moment
We can't help without proper feedback
We have no response to post 42
We keep jumping all over the place
varesecrazy sorry if I seem to have ignored your post. I really do appreciate all the suggestions members have put forward. It's just become overwhelming. I haven't had a working car since christmas day!
I have removed the MAP sensor as suggested and there was some oil on it. I have cleaned it up as thoroughly as I can and also it's location.
I tried starting the car with:
MAP sensor removed and disconnected.
MAP sensor removed but connected.
MAP sensor back in position and connected.
The engine doesn't run in any of these configurations.
Okay we have oil on the MAP sensor
We need to retest as something is radically wrong with the results, they are only 50% of what they should be around 215 psi
Either the engine isn't turning over fast enough
The results are wrong
Or we have a fundimetal problem
I suspect the results are wrong
I find the cone works best I get leaks with the screw in tube and adapter
This is what i use
We need to retest as something is radically wrong with the results, they are only 50% of what they should be around 215 psi
Either the engine isn't turning over fast enough
The results are wrong
Or we have a fundimetal problem
I suspect the results are wrong
I find the cone works best I get leaks with the screw in tube and adapter
This is what i use
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Did you post a picture of the plugs?
sounds very much like the crank sensor may have died as map sensor produces erratic symptoms but it would occasionally fire....
Next check the key is working, immobiliser may not be connecting with the key. I'd also check if you are getting a spark by pulling a plug lead off and sticking a plug on it, touch it to metal on the engine and get someone to turn the key and you see if the plug has a spark.
Next check the key is working, immobiliser may not be connecting with the key. I'd also check if you are getting a spark by pulling a plug lead off and sticking a plug on it, touch it to metal on the engine and get someone to turn the key and you see if the plug has a spark.
With a basic poor starter, but fair runner maybe,
But with such poor compression figures I am still doubting the Top vs Bottom timing
A jumped belt is Far from unheard of with the 1108 in a 169 panda
You are probably right but you'd expect the compression readings to be fairly equal to each other.
An old thread.. But could well be relevant info
www.fiatforum.com
Dead Panda | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
Lots of folks assume the engine is correctly timed when they fit a new belt. It might be ok but how would you know? This should help - https://www.litensaftermarket.com/fileadmin/user_upload/downloads/installation/zahnriemenspanner/en/Installation_Procedure_979778.pdf Usually, the cam wheel...
www.fiatforum.com
I have rechecked the compression.
No 1 90 psi
No 2 105 psi
No 3 95 psi
No 4 100 psi
I was also told that the lack of an error code doesn't mean the crankshaft sensor is OK and I should check its resistance. It should be between 1134 ohms and 1385 ohms. I removed the crankshaft sensor and measured the resistance - 1072ohms. It did produce an AC voltage when iron was passed by it. As it was out of range I thought it best to try a new one. The new one measured 1058 ohms, which surprised me, but since I had it, I tried it anyway. The car still doesn't start.
I'm beginning to think the only thing to do is jack up the air filter and drive a new car underneath it. Any further suggestions?
No 1 90 psi
No 2 105 psi
No 3 95 psi
No 4 100 psi
I was also told that the lack of an error code doesn't mean the crankshaft sensor is OK and I should check its resistance. It should be between 1134 ohms and 1385 ohms. I removed the crankshaft sensor and measured the resistance - 1072ohms. It did produce an AC voltage when iron was passed by it. As it was out of range I thought it best to try a new one. The new one measured 1058 ohms, which surprised me, but since I had it, I tried it anyway. The car still doesn't start.
I'm beginning to think the only thing to do is jack up the air filter and drive a new car underneath it. Any further suggestions?
Going back to what someone else said, is the timing correct on the car ie pulleys lign up with the marks on the engine? You have spark in the plugs and you can hear the fuel pump priming for a few seconds when you turn the key..... 105 psi with the throttle pressed to the floor would be very low in my view if the engine spins over as normal on the key.
As I have already said a couple of times and others have
My car is 215 psi and yours is 100
Either the test gauge is wrong, it's not being test correctly
Or this is the problem
I just don't see the point of even looking at the Crank sensor, if we have a spark
We are jumping all over the place and getting nowhere,
100psi is not a good result, let's not just ignore this and move onto anything else randomly but let's deal with this first
Post a picture of the setup used to test the compression
Does the Compession change if tested wet
My car is 215 psi and yours is 100
Either the test gauge is wrong, it's not being test correctly
Or this is the problem
I just don't see the point of even looking at the Crank sensor, if we have a spark
We are jumping all over the place and getting nowhere,
100psi is not a good result, let's not just ignore this and move onto anything else randomly but let's deal with this first
Post a picture of the setup used to test the compression
Does the Compession change if tested wet
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If it ran fairly well 6 weeks ago, and then produces cylinder pressures @50% of the anticipated figure that's a good indicator
Commonest failure would be head gasket.. But that's 2 cylinders.. You have all 4
My money is on the valves NOT being closed,
Revisit the timing
As told before, this is not unheard of on this motor
They run acceptably 1 or 2 teeth out,
Not at all on 7 (my 1.1 did that..)
Suggestion:
use your previous method to check the timing,
Once you are happy.
Physically mark the belt and cast marks,
Now move timing forward 2 marks
Lock up and try to start
No different..?
go 4 Back ( so minus 2 from your original setting)
This is a non. Interference engine
My 7 teeth out just got retimed and ran well for the next 50k and 7 years, then sold
It's still running now. 20 years old
Commonest failure would be head gasket.. But that's 2 cylinders.. You have all 4
My money is on the valves NOT being closed,
Revisit the timing
As told before, this is not unheard of on this motor
They run acceptably 1 or 2 teeth out,
Not at all on 7 (my 1.1 did that..)
Suggestion:
use your previous method to check the timing,
Once you are happy.
Physically mark the belt and cast marks,
Now move timing forward 2 marks
Lock up and try to start
No different..?
go 4 Back ( so minus 2 from your original setting)
This is a non. Interference engine
My 7 teeth out just got retimed and ran well for the next 50k and 7 years, then sold
It's still running now. 20 years old
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In case you missed it post #52 on here
www.fiatforum.com
Dead Panda | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
Lots of folks assume the engine is correctly timed when they fit a new belt. It might be ok but how would you know? This should help - https://www.litensaftermarket.com/fileadmin/user_upload/downloads/installation/zahnriemenspanner/en/Installation_Procedure_979778.pdf Usually, the cam wheel...
www.fiatforum.com
Searching on google suggests a compression of 120 - 130 psi for a petrol engine is normal. My cylinders are all lower than this, but why would they all fail suddenly and together? I had the head gasket fail a couple of years ago, but the engine ran for ages like that. I checked the pressures by removing all the plugs and screwing the pipe from the pressure gauge into the cylinder and then turning the engine with the starter until the pressure stopped rising. The instructions with the gauge said not to use a wrench on the adaptor but screw it in by hand. I did this for each cylinder. I don't understand what is meant by checking it "wet".
I've checked the timing by removing the plugs and the camshaft cover. With the marks on the camshaft lined up, number 1 piston is at TDC, and the valves are both closed. How is it possible that the timing could be sufficently out for the engine not to fire at all?
I've checked the timing by removing the plugs and the camshaft cover. With the marks on the camshaft lined up, number 1 piston is at TDC, and the valves are both closed. How is it possible that the timing could be sufficently out for the engine not to fire at all?
Stop reading radom stuff on the internet
There's a lot of different engines, fuels around the world
Most of the information is legacy from old data that's rehashed, or not relivent to this engine
What you need is information about your engine
You need a pressure of around 100 psi just for combustion to possible, you are below that
Mine is 215 psi 1.2 2010 I have tested it a few times always over 200
That on a fairly weak
battery
Even the older low compression ratio puntos were 200 psi
www.fiatforum.com
www.fiatforum.com
You are either doing the test incorrectly
The gauge is faulty
Or this is your problem
There's a lot of different engines, fuels around the world
Most of the information is legacy from old data that's rehashed, or not relivent to this engine
What you need is information about your engine
You need a pressure of around 100 psi just for combustion to possible, you are below that
Mine is 215 psi 1.2 2010 I have tested it a few times always over 200
That on a fairly weak
battery
Even the older low compression ratio puntos were 200 psi
Compression Pressures? | FIAT Punto (Mk1)
Can anyone tell me what the cold cranking compression pressure is for a standard 1242cc.P75.
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1.2 8v compression 175 psi or 12 bar | FIAT Punto (Mk2/2b)
1.2 8v compression 175 psi or 12 bar bought this 8v supposedly with bad hg, changed battery car started in first try, measured compression (dry) and it was around 175 psi or 12 bar on all 4 cylinders car was almost cold, car doesnt lack any power is that normal compression?
www.fiatforum.com
You are either doing the test incorrectly
The gauge is faulty
Or this is your problem
