The 1.1 (and non-aircon 60hp 1.2) are definitely do-able from above, in fact that's my preference as I usually only have a tilting ramp available at the moment.
1 bolt fom each side of the end plate, then carefully maneuver the starter motor out, and remove the nut for the power/trigger cables and plastic cover.
I've done enough now that muscle memory takes over, so it's actually quite hard to describe the process.
Here's some thoughts, but I could have missed a few points.
Its easier if the battery tray is removed, but possible without. Removing the coil holder (10mm nuts & a bolt) can also make it easier to see.
A knuckle joint can make the gearbox-side bolt easier to loosen/tighten. Its right in the corner of a casting junction.
Take note of how the plastic cover, trigger wire and power cable all fit together, as many people seem to get it wrong.
Also, it's easy to not-quite tighten the power cable nut, so it either doesn't work, or stops working after a while. But also easy to overnighter it and snap the stud.
The plastic cover has to fit in a particular position, and as you'll be doing it blind, check it is correct before tightening by trying to turn it gently.
As
@koalar said above, complete failure is rare, screeching noise is more common and fixable, but starter still needs to come off to fix.
Most of the few actual failures I have seen seem to be broken solenoid fork (although I have seen one with signs of electric fire, but that was from someone trying to start a nearly siezed engine).